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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Clutch slipping after install. (FIXED)

Installed new EBC Race Clutch and heavy duty springs and now the clutch is slipping worse than before I changed the friction plates.

Is it possible for the lower clutch lever to be 360 degress out? It seems to have hardly any resistance to being pulled to disengage. I'm a doofus when it comes to adjusting cable but even with purposeful loads of slack it doesn't tug hard to get back to fully engaged position.
 

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...It seems to have hardly any resistance to being pulled to disengage....
That suggests to me that your clutch (cable) is VERY badly adjusted.

From the factory, MOST Kawis come w/ the clutch adjusted so that the 'friction-point' is FAR from the handle-bars, meaning you ONLY have to move the lever a VERY SMALL distance to 'slip' your clutch, MEANING your clutch is VERY close to slipping all the time, w/ ANY amount of wear!

I adjust MINE (and have done it to other's Kawis) to where that 'friction-point' is CLOSE to the bars, so it just works better. Here's what my adjuster looks like (about 1/4" of threads showing):



I recommend you try it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That suggests to me that your clutch (cable) is VERY badly adjusted.

From the factory, MOST Kawis come w/ the clutch adjusted so that the 'friction-point' is FAR from the handle-bars, meaning you ONLY have to move the lever a VERY SMALL distance to 'slip' your clutch, MEANING your clutch is VERY close to slipping all the time, w/ ANY amount of wear!

I adjust MINE (and have done it to other's Kawis) to where that 'friction-point' is CLOSE to the bars, so it just works better. Here's what my adjuster looks like (about 1/4" of threads showing):



I recommend you try it that way.
My clutch cable was already maxed out in both directions, completely buried on both adjusters before I finally decided I must need a new clutch.

I took some liberties and i'm basically going to have to re-do everything but take the clutch pack out again tomorrow. I'm going to replace the clutch cable to start with, I have one already anyway and its easy to do when you have it disconnected(that ****ing mounting bracket on the top of the case is mofo-sumbitch to get both bolts off of, don't let anyone tell you different!)

I'm also going to compare the sizes of all the springs to the originals too eliminate the possibility I left a soft spring causing uneven clutch pressure. Anyway I'm in texas and today is hot as hell, so I'll lay it back over tomorrow.

Pics form today:

The reason for the season:


Taking its nap in preparation for it's surgery:



Some motorcycle guts, All put back together again:
 

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David P - FWIW - the clutch is ORIGINAL on my '08 (79,042 miles) altho' I replaced the cable; my '09 had 62,790 kms on its ORIGINAL clutch [AND cable!] when it was 'written-off'; and my '15 has 62,xxx kms on its ORIGINAL clutch [AND cable!] TOO.

It STILL sounds to me as if you had a mis-adjusted cable causing your issues.

:goodluck:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
David P - FWIW - the clutch is ORIGINAL on my '08 (79,042 miles) altho' I replaced the cable; my '09 had 62,790 kms on its ORIGINAL clutch [AND cable!] when it was 'written-off'; and my '15 has 62,xxx kms on its ORIGINAL clutch [AND cable!] TOO.

It STILL sounds to me as if you had a mis-adjusted cable causing your issues.

:goodluck:
I was hurtful on the clutch, I'm a large guy and I used it for hours in technical terrain before I lowered the gearing(after realizing my clutch was getting eaten too fast.)


Anyway I replaced the cable and it felt alot better but the clutch was still slipping.

So I took it apart again, measured the stock springs against the HD ones and they were 1/4" -1/2" shorter. So I replaced all the stock springs and put it back together. Started out the clutch didn't have enough room to disengage when released but after some adjustment I got it dialed in and it was still an easier pull than the previous cable and stock springs.

Now onto the bad news... Clutch is still slipping. I'm afraid I've either bought crap friction plates or I need to replace additional clutch components. Bike is still useable but anything besides moderate throttle the clutch slips and I get an engine rev party.

So now its onto whether I buy new oem plates and rings or just buy the components I haven't replaced yet like the steel rings(then onto the clutch basket if that doesn't work.)
 

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Is your clutch cable properly adjusted for sufficient slack and free-play to allow full clutch engagement?


"I put in an EBC sbk Kevlar clutch and plates along with the stiffer clutch springs. The clutch grabs good its just when I try and go full throttle the rpms shoot up and the bike doesn't really accelerate."

"Well thanks for all the input and information guys. My clutch was way too tight! Now its not slipping when I give more throttle. It's actually accelerating properly!"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is your clutch cable properly adjusted for sufficient slack and free-play to allow full clutch engagement?


"I put in an EBC sbk Kevlar clutch and plates along with the stiffer clutch springs. The clutch grabs good its just when I try and go full throttle the rpms shoot up and the bike doesn't really accelerate."

"Well thanks for all the input and information guys. My clutch was way too tight! Now its not slipping when I give more throttle. It's actually accelerating properly!"
I've adjusted it all the way to being unable to disengage and it didn't solve the issue. I think my error was skimping out on the plates, $45 for barnet steels I'll grab em and throw em in next weekend.
 

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Sounds like an assembly issue to me. I would advise another set off experienced eyes before simply buying more parts. "Bad" ebc plates are highly unlikely. Just my .02

*Added: Did your basket have grooves? Are the steel plates oriented correctly, smooth outer edge facing"in"? Lower arm oriented properly? You mentioned 360 out in the open but it wasn't addressed again.
 

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I've adjusted it all the way to being unable to disengage and it didn't solve the issue. I think my error was skimping out on the plates, $45 for barnet steels I'll grab em and throw em in next weekend.
All clutch plates are fiber... Did you not reinstall the bottom friction steel disc and all original steel plates between your fiber plates? EBC are excellent quality. You likely left a crucial part out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Sounds like an assembly issue to me. I would advise another set off experienced eyes before simply buying more parts. "Bad" ebc plates are highly unlikely. Just my .02

*Added: Did your basket have grooves? Are the steel plates oriented correctly, smooth outer edge facing"in"? Lower arm oriented properly? You mentioned 360 out in the open but it wasn't addressed again.
I looked up EBC reputation and it seems to be stellar so I'll assume the issue is elsewhere. I understand the lower arm better now, it wasn't off in the the first place and just needs to be on the left(rearward side) when the clutch cover is put on.


I"m thinking the steel was cooked, which others have suggested sanding the steel but I'd hate to sand down warped or worn disc and still have a problem so I'll just buy new ones and crack it open a third time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All clutch plates are fiber... Did you not reinstall the bottom friction steel disc and all original steel plates between your fiber plates? EBC are excellent quality. You likely left a crucial part out.
I agree about EBC friction plates upon further review, but I'm talking about buying new steel discs which I have not replaced yet.
 

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