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Clutch question before a big trip

391 Views 9 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  BrokeAssCycles
I’ve done some googling and some searching on the forum on clutch life. Mine isn’t really giving me any issues but I’m at like 30-32k miles ish and I’m planning to put 5-7k miles on it this season. I’ve done some major road side repairs the last two years for various reasons and I’m trying to avoid that this year.

at 30,000+ miles should the clutch be on the list of preventative maintenance? I don’t push my bike super hard, no wheelies or burnouts… but I do like to get on the throttle in the twisties.

if it’s not giving me issues now and it’s best left alone, what kinda mileage are you guys getting from your original clutch?

if it is something that should be taken care of, should I swap the springs like Ive seen people talk about on this forum, or just go ahead and swap the friction plates too?

also looking for reputable brands for parts if I should go ahead and swap springs and/or friction plates.

I’d prefer to just leave it for a winter project just because of time but if it needs to be done, I’d rather do it at home.

thanks in advance! Sorry for weird typos, posting from my phone.
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Where you at on your clutch cable adjusters, maxed out or in the middle of travel?
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@2tallformybike - just a data point, buddy who bought my 2012 Versys 650 is up to 46K miles on it. Clutch cable was changed once (around 30K miles) just as a precaution. Clutch itself has not been touched and is still rock solid.
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In my experience clutches will generally give you a bit of notice before they fail. I would wait until you notice some slippage before changing it out.
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Just clean and lube the cable. You will feel if it is going to fail by inconsistent resistance while operating it.
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The OEM clutches are/were STILL working fine on my '08 @ 104,xxx miles; '09 at 39,xxx miles (when it was a write-off after a crash); and currently on my '15 @ 57,xxx miles which I'm giving to my son.

I HAVE replaced clutch cables on the '15 and the '08 however.

Kawi clutches are a "GOOD PIECE OF KIT"...!

(y)(y)

:cool:
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Im 94,000K on my 15 and the clutch works the same as new. Ive lubed the cable a few times. A sticky cable will have you troubleshooting in the wrong direction and if you ride a lot of dust it can get gummed up quickly.
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The amount of lever travel between 1. "initial take up" and 2. "fully engaged" tells a big story vis a vis clutch/friction plate wear.

1. "Initial take up" is when the drive plates start touching the clutch plates... which is the very begining of "drive" as you let the lever out)

2. "fully engaged" is when the clutch lever is all the way
out (minus the freeplay between the lever perch and lever)...
just so long as your clutch cable is adjusted within reason.

More distance between 1 and 2 indicates more clutch life.

Also if your clutch has not been used hard often, ie drag strip launches,
it will have plenty of life left at 32k miles.

I by no means baby the clutch (but I avoid abusing it) and I would have no qualms riding up to the top of the cape York Peninsula from my home in Victoria... the most Southern state on the Australian mainland... (vis a vis the clutch)
on my Gen II 650 which has covered a slightly greater distance than yours 2 Tall.(y)

Have fun,

Alan.
Tire Wheel Plant Automotive tire Vehicle
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I'm at 48,000 miles on a 2014 Versys 650 and I ride in traffic every day. Clutch is as good as new.
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I don't do very many clutches in my shop fwiw...and, when I do, they've usually begun to slip after some power adders were installed, so usually a Barnett clutch (or similar) with stiffer springs is in order.
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