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Discussion Starter #1
I am having some issues with my 2011 Versys.

Whenever I am in 1st gear and stopped with the clutch in there is a lot of force pushing me forward. So much that the bike kept cutting off at red lights on my way home.

Put the bike on the stand and the wheel moves at 5-6 mph while in 1st with no throttle.

Is my clutch just out of adjustment? If so, how do I adjust it?
 

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Probably. You can adjust clutch at the engine end or the lever end. On the lever end there is a threaded barrel with a stop nut. Loosen the big nut and turn the barrel toward you then tighten the nut to keep it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The wheel should not really move on its own with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch in, right?
 

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Sounds like you may have too much play in your lever. Your play in between the lever and the perch should be approximately the thickness of a nickel.
 

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Wait...

It "shouldn't" but even with perfectly adjusted clutches you will get a bit of movement in the rear tire in neutral.

But it should DEFINITELY not push you forward. try the 2-3mm adjustment and make sure the clutch is engaging in the right part of the lever pull. It will change a bit as the engine warms up, and weather varies.
 

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Rear wheels on all of my motorcycles have always spun a little bit with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, but never enough to pull my forward when stopped.
 

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The wheel should not really move on its own with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch in, right?
NOT if you're on it.

Sounds like you may have too much play in your lever. Your play in between the lever and the perch should be approximately the thickness of a nickel.
I disagree. You have TOO LITTLE play.

Remove all the play and your clutch will NOT disengage; add TOO MUCH and your clutch will NOT engage.

Confirm - your clutch disengages w/ the lever FAR from the bars, right? Quite a few of the members have had their clutch cable break, pulling the ferrule (that goes into the lever) off, which is a direct result of having the disengage point FAR from the handlebars. Once you pull past the disengage point, (lever to the bars for instance as in waiting at a light) you're trying to pull the ferrule off.

I've adjusted quite a few Kawasakis to get the disengage point closer to the bars - your cable will last longer, and IF you need to modulate the clutch while riding (stuck, for instance), it's MUCH easier w/ the disengage point nearer to the bars.

Here's a pic of where mine is (I'm still on my original cable in BOTH my Vs, one at 51,xxx miles, the other at 47,935 kms!).
 

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On page 116 of the owners manual you will see a diagram of the clutch lever in regards to the perch, indicated as "B". The play should be 2-3mm's, a nickel is 2mm, which can be used as a reference. Obliviously make sure its not on the tight side. It's not rough, not enough play and the clutch won't engage (Did that once on a sportster), to much and the opposite. I also don't pull my clutch all the way to the grip when I shift, just enough so it engages. I also regularly oil my clutch cable with inox as my cable has even greater tension on it due to the BRP clutch springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the advice.

After a little adjustment it seems to be working a lot better.:thumb:
 

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As others have said... you need to adjust your clutch cable.

I find that there is about 1cm of movement of the clutch lever end movement between Clutch engagement and full disengagement when pulling in the lever.

I set my clutch engagement point when the lever is half way in on the Number 5 dial, so I do not over pull the cable too tight - it also helps reduce wrist pain and popeye arms.
This means my Free movement is about 5mm gap between the Lever and perch.
With the Dial at 5 it is at the loosest lever position (5mm) - if I dial it to 1 then then the engagement point is further away from the grip and free movement is more like the recommended 2-3mm. This way I can use the clutch at any dial setting without clutch issues.
 
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