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Discussion Starter #1
Morning All
Since i have bought my 2008 with just over 17K, Ive noticed the clutch seems to be dragging slightly. Its enough that it makes it difficult at times to get it into neutral. My gear changes seem clunky as well.. What i have done to this point is adjusting the clutch at the bars. Other than engaging it at a different point, no change. Tried adjusting it at the cable point above the clutch housing on the right side case. No change. My clutch is currently adjusted to where there is little play and the lever engages/disengages as soon as i pull the lever in. I have changed oil and played with several weights and oil types. Perhaps a little better on the Mobile 1 syn but it still doesn't seem right. I have noticed when i start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged the bike will jump forward slightly for a brief sec. if i push the shift to around 5K it seems to like it. but i have to baby the down shifts to get it to work smoothly. Whats going on here is my question? Is this normal operation for these bikes and I should just ride it and stop wondering about it?
Thanks is advance for your comments or advise.. Rick
 

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Oil Type

Are you saying the bike wants to travel forward even with the clutch pulled in? Also what oil are you using? It is normal after sitting even for a few hours for the bike to try and travel forward in first gear with the clutch pulled in, this is because the oil between the clutch plates has been reduced by pressure, once you start traveling and shifting the oil returns, this is also common with non synthetic oil and temperatures below 10'C . I run Mobil 1 15/50 and so far I am 24, 000 KM on the bike using that oil.
 

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...My clutch is currently adjusted to where there is little play and the lever engages/disengages as soon as i pull the lever in....
If by that you mean the clutch engage/disengage point is a long way from the bars - that might be your problem. FIRST thing I did on each of my three V650s was to move the engage/disengage point from the factory setting (a long way from the bars) to about an inch from the bars so now it's easy to slip the clutch as necessary.

I end up w/ about 1/4" of threads showing on the clutch-lever adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I adjusted it out as far as could in a effort to get more of a release of the clutch hoping that the extra travel would disengage the clutch more. So far that hasn't held true. it did get a tad better but the shifts are still to notchy for me. I rode my 38 year old Yamaha 1100xs this morning and the shift quality is far better that the Versys is. I am running Mobil 1 15w40 syn motorcycle oil as well.

I'm just going to tear the dang thing apart and check the clutch pack and see what i got. there seems to be no answers here as to if this is normal for the bike or something is going on that needs repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
only for a brief second during a cold start. the rest if the time it just seems to drag enough to make upshifting a issue as well as finding neutral when i park the bike.
 

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"I rode my 38 year old Yamaha 1100xs this morning and the shift quality is far better that the Versys is. I am running Mobil 1 15w40 syn motorcycle oil as well."
If this says that you are also running that oil in your Versys, then I don't have any ideas. When I looked at this thread the other day I meant to ask if by chance the V had some low weight oil that might have slip enhancers for use in newer cars. You can look at the little circle on the container to see if it has that additive in it. I can't remember the exact words, but I think if there is writing in the upper part of the circle, that would mean extra slip additives. Keep us posted.
 

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I adjusted it out as far as could in a effort to get more of a release of the clutch hoping that the extra travel would disengage the clutch more. So far that hasn't held true. it did get a tad better but the shifts are still to notchy for me. I rode my 38 year old Yamaha 1100xs this morning and the shift quality is far better that the Versys is. I am running Mobil 1 15w40 syn motorcycle oil as well.

I'm just going to tear the dang thing apart and check the clutch pack and see what i got. there seems to be no answers here as to if this is normal for the bike or something is going on that needs repair.
IF I'm reading you correctly (the engage/disengage point is set far from the bars) then I suggest you think about what I'm about to write:

by setting that engage/disengage point far from the bars you are on the verge of NOT being to ABLE to disengage it [the clutch], which it seems to me IS your problem.

IF you set it so that the engage/disengage point is CLOSER to the bars, that means that your clutch will be COMPLETELY engaged shortly after you release the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Afternoon and thanks for the inputs. But I'm a tad confused. the longer the throw the more the clutch is released? The clutch never slips. its solid as a rock. I'm have problems with the disengagement. It seems the clutch never fully releases or perhaps drags slightly with it pulled in completely to the bars. this is perhaps why its difficult to get it in neutral when parked and engine idling and why it has a notchy up shift unless i spin the motor up to about 5K . When i down shift i have to blip the throttle to relax the gear box enough so it doesn't slam into the lower gear. if you will, imagine float shifting a 18 speed gear box in a truck without using the clutch.
I hope that explains things a little better..
 

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Afternoon and thanks for the inputs. But I'm a tad confused. the longer the throw the more the clutch is released? The clutch never slips. its solid as a rock. I'm have problems with the disengagement. It seems the clutch never fully releases or perhaps drags slightly with it pulled in completely to the bars. this is perhaps why its difficult to get it in neutral when parked and engine idling and why it has a notchy up shift unless i spin the motor up to about 5K . When i down shift i have to blip the throttle to relax the gear box enough so it doesn't slam into the lower gear. if you will, imagine float shifting a 18 speed gear box in a truck without using the clutch.
I hope that explains things a little better..
I asked earlier about oil you never replied. Second thing is go to the clutch / foot brake side, note position with slack cable, then give a rough estimate of travel in inches when clutch pulled in. Also it is a 2008, the shifter uses the footrest as a pivot point, I installed a grease nipple on my 07 at the footrest pivot point, makes a huge difference. On the 2015 they modified the shift linkage to incorporate a grease / sort of sealed pivot point.
 

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Afternoon and thanks for the inputs. But I'm a tad confused. the longer the throw the more the clutch is released?....
WHERE is your "engage/disengage point" set RIGHT now? Your problem in shifting is caused by your clutch NOT disengaging, most likely caused by your "engage/disengage point" being set TOO far from the bars.

Here's an easy solution - set your clutch-lever as I advised you to do



then start it and TRY it. It will take you about 10 minutes MAXIMUM to try.

:goodluck:
 

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Clutch cable slack / Travel

I posted the following photos related to doing the valve shim, many expressed the difficulty in removing the clutch cable , this method is real easy and no need to touch the adjustment on the handle bar .
This photo you will see there is slack in the cable, your bike should be similar, that is there should be possibly 3/16 inch travel of the clutch lever at the handlebar before you get movement in this photo:




Here it is with my clutch lever at rest, note the angle


From your description I would assume that this lever barely moves. Some have the exact opposite, not enough slack and the clutch slips . Again, difficulty shifting up can be the linkage and lack of lube .
 
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