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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2009 Versys with 7800 miles on it. I have been having issues with my clutch.

I know that the 'travel' of the clutch should be in the middle of the lever's range, and that if the travel moves in, where eventually you can't engage it, then it is hot. And that if it moves out, the clutch is getting worn out.

My travel starts right after you release the clutch at all, so if it gets hot at all, like after 30 minutes, then it won't engage. I have adjusted the tightness of the cable, and know it's as tight as it can get, I have no more threads on the adjuster screw left.

There is that knob that says, 1 2 3 4. But when I turn that, it loosens the clutch, making it even worse. So it seems like the bike is set up to be able to loosen it a lot over time, but there is no way to make it tighter.

Is this a problem others have? Do I have to somehow shorten the cable?

Thanks!
 

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IF I'm reading you right - your clutch engages near the end of the lever's travel (FAR from the bars), which is the way BOTH my Vs came from the factory.

If that's the case, when you pull your lever PAST the point the clutch dis-engages (to the handle-bars), you're trying to stretch your cable, leading to early cable breakage, and you are also close to the point where you can NOT dis-engage it at all when the lever is released.

What I did for my Vs (and several other Kawasaki bikes like KLRs belonging to friends...), is to adjust the ADJUSTER IN so that only 4 or 5 threads show - that way your dis-engage point happens shortly after you start releasing the lever, making clutch modulation MUCH easier, cable life MUCH longer (BOTH my Vs are on the original cable, the '08 w/ 51,000 miles, the '09 w/ 40,000 kms)!
 

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Looks like you are only trying to adjust at the handlebar. There is another adjustment on the line. Its on right side near clutch itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
fasteddiecopeman: It's actually the opposite, the engage point is RIGHT at the handle bars. So when it warms up, the engage point is IN the handle bar, and the clutch won't engage. I know it's weird.

mikej: I did not know about that, I will look at that.
 

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In my experience the clutch "feel" does not change with the bike or clutch warming up from use. Maybe I am misunderstanding your description. does this help?

 

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Discussion Starter #7
IF I'm reading you right - your clutch engages near the end of the lever's travel (FAR from the bars), which is the way BOTH my Vs came from the factory.

If that's the case, when you pull your lever PAST the point the clutch dis-engages (to the handle-bars), you're trying to stretch your cable, leading to early cable breakage, and you are also close to the point where you can NOT dis-engage it at all when the lever is released.

What I did for my Vs (and several other Kawasaki bikes like KLRs belonging to friends...), is to adjust the ADJUSTER IN so that only 4 or 5 threads show - that way your dis-engage point happens shortly after you start releasing the lever, making clutch modulation MUCH easier, cable life MUCH longer (BOTH my Vs are on the original cable, the '08 w/ 51,000 miles, the '09 w/ 40,000 kms)!



I just went and looked at it again and I can see the cable is shredding and that there is only a few mm of cable left, so I'm sure that's the problem. I ordered another one, hopefully I can make it home from work:)

Thanks guys, any tips on replacing the cable. I am gonna watch some youtube videos.
 

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I just went and looked at it again and I can see the cable is shredding and that there is only a few mm of cable left, so I'm sure that's the problem. I ordered another one, hopefully I can make it home from work:)

Thanks guys, any tips on replacing the cable. I am gonna watch some youtube videos.
Apparently Mr Kawasaki has a lot of cables in stock that he wants to sell us
Do search and you should find a better routing :goodluck:
 

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Lubing your cable will help a lot. I have over 30,000 mile on my KLR and the stock cable, 12,000 on the Versys and factory cable. A few drops of 3M oil down the cable and then a bit of grease on the end where it goes into the lever and it'll last. I do so every time I change oil.

I have spares for both bike as I find cables break on Sunday afternoon and NO one has on in stock anyway and it's a two week back order. If you have a spare they NEVER break! Other things will BUT not the cable! Just out of spite.
 

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Lubing your cable will help a lot. I have over 30,000 mile on my KLR and the stock cable, 12,000 on the Versys and factory cable. A few drops of 3M oil down the cable and then a bit of grease on the end where it goes into the lever and it'll last. I do so every time I change oil.

I have spares for both bike as I find cables break on Sunday afternoon and NO one has on in stock anyway and it's a two week back order. If you have a spare they NEVER break! Other things will BUT not the cable! Just out of spite.
yep, I bought a spare clutch cable and a set of plugs from weljo for precisely that reason. I know I will never have to change plugs or cable as long as I own the bike:goodidea:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the responses, I will lube for sure now. Also, I had my big adjustment nut tightened against the clutch lever and not the smaller nut, is that wrong? Someone mentioned that in a video.

Yeah, no one had one in stock, ordered one from bike bandit.
 

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Thanks for the responses, I will lube for sure now. Also, I had my big adjustment nut tightened against the clutch lever and not the smaller nut, is that wrong? Someone mentioned that in a video.

Yeah, no one had one in stock, ordered one from bike bandit.
I go so far on the KLR to tape the spare to the one on the bike when I go on long off road rides. I use duct tape to cover the ends up goot to keep dirt out.
 
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