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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm guessing most owners noticed that the clutch engages and disengages when the lever is almost fully extended, when lever free-play is set to spec. The same space used to measure the lever free-play (between lever and post) is about 5/16" wide when the gears start to engage from releasing the clutch. Is this normal with this bike? I can see how someone with small hands might be bothered by stretching their fingers out.
 

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I'm guessing most owners noticed that the clutch engages and disengages when the lever is almost fully extended, when lever free-play is set to spec. The same space used to measure the lever free-play (between lever and post) is about 5/16" wide when the gears start to engage from releasing the clutch. Is this normal with this bike? I can see how someone with small hands might be bothered by stretching their fingers out.
There are settings on the lever to compensate for small hands and large hands, I have shorties and set at #4. I look at free play between the lever and stop, about 1/16 cold. Some have had no slack between the lever and stop, this leads to clutch failure. Not rocket science here , the clutch has a return spring , I posted a photo about creating slack to remove or add the clutch cable. It is at this point that a spring exists to return the clutch lever, there should be some slack at this point between the lever and return spring. Another way of explaining it, is you should be able to slip a .060" feeler gauge ( minimum )between the clutch lever and stop, with no effort, before the clutch actuator ( I am referring to where the adjustable is on in the photo) starts to exert pressure on the clutch.

Photo was taken to demonstrate a means of creating slack while change clutch lever or clutch cable.
 

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I'm guessing most owners noticed that the clutch engages and disengages when the lever is almost fully extended, when lever free-play is set to spec. The same space used to measure the lever free-play (between lever and post) is about 5/16" wide when the gears start to engage from releasing the clutch. Is this normal with this bike? I can see how someone with small hands might be bothered by stretching their fingers out.
One of the FIRST things I did to all three of my V650s, was to turn the clutch-cable adjuster IN, to this point:



It's about 1/4" of threads visible. This moves the engage/disengage point of the clutch MUCH CLOSER to the handle-bars, so that it's much easier to modulate the clutch [whereas the OEM adjustment is VERY close to the point at which you CAN'T disengage the clutch, as well as 'straining' the cable, leading to EARLY cluch-cable breakage. - The OEM cable for my '08 lasted 53,750 MILES, so the SECOND cable NOW has about 30,000 miles on it, and those in my '09 and '15 had/have 62,790 kms and 63,914 kms w/ no end insight!]

I've done that to Kawasakis for other friends as well, and they ALL are happy w/ the change.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
On the X 300 clutch lever, I don't see different lever positions marked or notched the way they are on other bikes. I have about 1/16" inch of free play between the clutch lever flat edge and the post, which is spec. I've lowered the two nuts at the lower end of the clutch cable, but I can't tell if this helped because I had to compensate by moving the handlebar adjusters to keep the same free play space. I have about 1/4" of the clutch cable wires visible at the point of gear engagement also.
 

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X 300

On the X 300 clutch lever, I don't see different lever positions marked or notched the way they are on other bikes. I have about 1/16" inch of free play between the clutch lever flat edge and the post, which is spec. I've lowered the two nuts at the lower end of the clutch cable, but I can't tell if this helped because I had to compensate by moving the handlebar adjusters to keep the same free play space. I have about 1/4" of the clutch cable wires visible at the point of gear engagement also.
All the posts shown refer to the 650 Versys, my mistake.
 
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