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Mine broke on my 2008 at 17,000 miles. The mechanic has a 2006 ZX-6R Ninja and his broke at the lever too. The ferrule with its chrome sleeve is hard to extract from the lever, but if you set the adjuster at 5 you'll be able to get it out. I have the official shop manual and this is not mentioned. We should probably lube them every 2 years but you should know that this job takes a good hour after you remove the front tank and back rear covers, extract the old cable, lube the new one, and position it through its 3 wire loops.
 

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I lube mine every oil change or sooner it takes about 10 minutes to lube the clutch cable. 2 years is just asking for a broke cable.
 

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I lube mine every other time I lube my chain... which is about every 300 miles. It takes me about 10 seconds. :)
How exactly are you lubing your cable??
 

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3-1 oil applied at the opening/adjustment nut next to the clutch handle. There is a nice little trough that I put about 5-10 drops in, work the clutch several times, add some more oil, and repeat. Is the oil making it all the way down to the bottom? Probably not, but I'm getting quite a bit in there so it's making it down pretty far.

I know that it's working because I used to have problems with the cable not wanting to return smoothly. After this method the problem has never repeated itself.

I also have a spare clutch cable sitting in with my other V parts if/when this one fails.
 

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I use 3-1 oil as well. I get about 10-12 drops down the cable monthly. One other thing to lube is the lever where the cable end goes in. I use waterproof grease, a little dab'll do ya. Most cable break there due to that end binding up because of a lack of lube the little drum and turn so the inner cable flexes and that breaks the strands one at a time to start then POP.

Another old trick is to buy a new cable. You don't need to use it just have it and the one on the bike will last and last! I have spares for both the Versys and KLR hanging the the garage. AND if you do break a cable you have one on hand.
 

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I use 3-1 oil as well. I get about 10-12 drops down the cable monthly. One other thing to lube is the lever where the cable end goes in. I use waterproof grease, a little dab'll do ya. Most cable break there due to that end binding up because of a lack of lube the little drum and turn so the inner cable flexes and that breaks the strands one at a time to start then POP.

Another old trick is to buy a new cable. You don't need to use it just have it and the one on the bike will last and last! I have spares for both the Versys and KLR hanging the the garage. AND if you do break a cable you have one on hand.
Mine broke the exact way you described at about 6k miles. Since I've started lubing the area where the cable goes, I haven't had a break.

And another good trick is to have the spare cable already routed properly, but not hooked up. If you have a break it's a simple plug and play fix on-the-go without having to take any bodywork off.
 

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this proposal is awesome! my clutch cable was broken in hambourg (germany) during my on going trip in europe.
now I have spare cable only recently mounted and lubed...still have 3000km before going back home so I will have to lube it every night as I lube my chain :)

the mecanic told me that it is easy to drive a mmotobike without clutch cable, in highway it is the easiest part and you just need to push it for a start before you trigger the starter...in city it is compilcated with stops everywhere and uou have to shut down the engine at each stop...the risk is that the rear wheel may lock :s


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Mine broke on my 2008 at 17,000 miles. The mechanic has a 2006 ZX-6R Ninja and his broke at the lever too. The ferrule with its chrome sleeve is hard to extract from the lever, but if you set the adjuster at 5 you'll be able to get it out. I have the official shop manual and this is not mentioned. We should probably lube them every 2 years but you should know that this job takes a good hour after you remove the front tank and back rear covers, extract the old cable, lube the new one, and position it through its 3 wire loops.
My experience w/ my two Vs and a bud's KLR, is that Kawasaki sets up the clutch so that it's VERY hard on cables. IF the 'release-point' of your clutch is FAR from the handlebars, then when you pull the clutch lever to the bars (waiting for a traffic light, etc), you are REALLY stretching the cable, asking for it to fail. :badidea:

I set mine (and others) up so that INSTEAD of about an inch of thread showing on the adjuster (by the lever), only about 3 to 4 threads show (1/4"). This way the release point is when the lever is about 1.5 to 2" away from the grip, so you're NOT stretching the heck out of it, waiting for the traffic light.

How exactly are you lubing your cable??
Joseph - you didn't ask me, but I reduce pressure at the lever adjuster by turning it till NO threads show, align the 'slots' and pull the cable out. Then I put WD40 into a small pill bottle, then using the plastic tube that comes w/ a can of WD40 (tho' I use bulk WD myself) I dip it into the container, cover the end w/ my finger (holding about 1" of WD40) and slowly release it into the end of the cable, moving the inner back-and-forth. Probably takes me 10 minutes total.:clap: ...and works like a damn!
 

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I read this post yesterday, and since we are in the middle of torrential rains here in Colorado, I decided to check/lube mine.



oops. 10,000+ miles, no maintenance. Will make sure I lube the new one a little more often :)
 

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I read this post yesterday, and since we are in the middle of torrential rains here in Colorado, I decided to check/lube mine.



oops. 10,000+ miles, no maintenance. Will make sure I lube the new one a little more often :)

I use Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease at that end of the cable.
 

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I took 10 minutes yesterday (15 IF you count taking pictures), and lubed my clutch cable. I reduce pressure at the lever adjuster by turning it till NO threads show, align the 'slots' and pull the cable out. I put WD40 into a small pill bottle, then using the plastic tube that comes w/ a can of WD40 (tho' I use bulk WD myself) I dip it into the container, cover the end w/ my finger (holding about 3" of WD40) and slowly release it into the end of the cable by removing my finger from the end, moving the inner back-and-forth, and do this till I see evidence of the WD40 coming out the lower end of the cable. Probably takes me 10 minutes total. ...and works like a damn! The two pics w/ arrows show the WD40 level in the little tube.

My pictures will take you thru the whole she-bang, from removing the cable from the lever (after measuring how much distance I have between the adjuster and its lock-nut, to make re-setting it easier), thru 'filling' the little tube, emptying it into the cable end, pulling the cable up and down to distribute the WD40 along the cable, to watching for when the WD40 starts coming out of the lower end of the cable, re-attaching everything and re-setting the SAME clearance I started with.

The FIRST time I did this was after my '08 clutch was getting VERY had to pull. NOW my clutch levers are dead EASY.
:goodidea: - :clap:

(Sorry I don't have a video camera to show you a movie of doing this.)
 

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I lubed my cable a couple of days ago. I pulled the cable from the lever and bar. I cut a little bit of the corner of a small plastic bag, just big enough to push the nipple through. I slipped the bag corner over the nipple and outer cable sleeve. I taped the bag to the outer sleeve. I pulled back the boot of the lower end of the cable by the clutch, and put a rag under the the cable to catch oil. I put about a desert spoon of oil into the plastic bag and stood the cable and bag vertically.
Walk away and Lett all the oil run through the cable until it stops running out the bottom. Reassemble. Simple.
 

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I took 10 minutes yesterday (15 IF you count taking pictures), and lubed my clutch cable. I reduce pressure at the lever adjuster by turning it till NO threads show, align the 'slots' and pull the cable out. I put WD40 into a small pill bottle, then using the plastic tube that comes w/ a can of WD40 (tho' I use bulk WD myself) I dip it into the container, cover the end w/ my finger (holding about 3" of WD40) and slowly release it into the end of the cable by removing my finger from the end, moving the inner back-and-forth, and do this till I see evidence of the WD40 coming out the lower end of the cable. Probably takes me 10 minutes total. ...and works like a damn! The two pics w/ arrows show the WD40 level in the little tube.

My pictures will take you thru the whole she-bang, from removing the cable from the lever (after measuring how much distance I have between the adjuster and its lock-nut, to make re-setting it easier), thru 'filling' the little tube, emptying it into the cable end, pulling the cable up and down to distribute the WD40 along the cable, to watching for when the WD40 starts coming out of the lower end of the cable, re-attaching everything and re-setting the SAME clearance I started with.

The FIRST time I did this was after my '08 clutch was getting VERY had to pull. NOW my clutch levers are dead EASY.
:goodidea: - :clap:

(Sorry I don't have a video camera to show you a movie of doing this.)
Nice writing FastEddie, AND GREAT pict, all clear, no dark or missed pict ... ++1


LOP
 

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I lube my clutch cable regularly but I also keep as spare clutch cable on the bike... already routed between the clutch lever and the clutch activator... zip-tied to the working clutch cable... its ends taped up to prevent contamination. If my cable breaks it will be a quick and easy fix to get going again.
 

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Folks, WD-40 in NOT an effective lubricant. Google it and read the bazillion articles on the topic. It is however an effective Water Displacer with a SMALL amount of lubricating properties. Simply getting some of the trapped moisture out of the cable has improved the situation for some of you.

Pony up the $15 for Motion Pro's kit and do it right.
 
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