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Discussion Starter #1
I broke the clutch cable on my bike that is only 7 months and 7.5K miles, thought I would have gotten more out the the cable. Took the shop a week to get the part for me, I can get parts for my 40 years old car faster.
 

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Sorry to hear about the cable.
I have not heard of a cable break in a while on this forum. I think I remember someone posting how dry the barrel at the clutch handle was, and that is where it broke. I grease mine every few months as precaution, and I pack an extra cable under my seat (one for my wife's bike too) just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It broke at the engine end.
 

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Mark, no rhyme or reason sometimes. Factory defect maybe?

Mcampana,
It acts more like a guide for the lube to run down the cable. I don't use one. I usually just take the cable loose from the handle, cover with a paper towel where I hold it and spray the lube until I see it at the other end. Grease the barrel with some good water resistant grease.
 

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Ok so now I have a question. I grease my cable end up at the lever. Are you supposed to do the same down by the engine?
 

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Clutch cable broke. maybe should search this site for similar post first. I'm going to try it and see if it works. tired of the repetition here. Ha!:thumb:
 

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For everyone who ever wanted to know:

Don’t let a broken clutch cable ruin your trip or leave you stranded. Here is a quick fix that might give you just what you need to get home or continue in the same direction. All you need is a little preparation or a hardware store.

My clutch cable broke for the 2nd time in 10,000 miles. That’s right, 1 per 5,000 miles…great clutch cable mileage eh? (I store the bike out of the weather in case you’re wondering so it's not a corrosion issue.)

I looked for a clutch cable locally and there were none to be had. Not being one to let little things stop me, I made a trip to the local hardware store and this little trick may save your ride.

I bought a pack of size 12 x 3/4in, flat head, Phillips screws and a pack of 1/4in -20 coarse thread nuts.

Your first order of business is to trim the end of the cable if you can…or cut off the remaining threads to the now defunct barrel stop. Then remove the cable nut and cable adjusting screw from the clutch handle.

Loosen your clutch handle, pull out the electrical engine kill connection to give you room to work, and turn it all over so you can see it.

I taped the end of the broken cable with a bit of duct tape, pushed it up through the ¼in nut, then threaded the #12 screw down into the nut from the opposite direction. Obviously, the screw is not designed for this nut but that is the intent. The coarse threads of the nut and screw will pinch and hold the cable as they pass through the nut creating a new end for you in place of the barrel stop. (Don’t use a size 10 screw because it won’t hold the cable tight enough and it will pull through).

Now drop the end of the screw into the barrel nut location on the clutch handle and thread the cable back through the cable cut/slot. Put the adjustment nut back between the handle and the cable to give it some tension. I could not use the adjustment nut because I didn’t have enough cable after it broke, but I didn’t need to. Turn your handle back over and tighten.

Once you have the handlebar end all set up, now you can adjust the cable tension nut on the engine end of the cable to tighten it further.

I ordered my clutch cable and waited. I rode the bike with no problems for over 3 weeks until the cable arrived (back ordered of course) and then I had to find time to fix it.

When I took my old cable off, the fix showed no signs of slipping. It was still going strong. (results may vary!). I do have pics but, I'm having a problem downloading at the moment. Maybe I can update later.

It is my sincerest wish that this post someday helps someone who is stranded or is thinking they may have to cancel their trip due to a broken clutch cable. It may even work on the engine end but, I hope I don’t have to find out. :goodluck:
 

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If you have to park outside or if you are one of those guys who washes his bike every week you need to lube your cables at least once a month. If you don’t want to buy a cable luber use the ole plastic bag trick (that’s what I do).

Take a small zip lock bag. poke the handle end of you cable through a lower corner (after you remove it from the handle of course). Wrap electrical tape around the corner of the bag and onto the cable housing. Pour a little 30w into the bag and seal it. Work the cable back and forth and squeeze the bag. The oil will eventually find it way to the bottom of the cable housing.
 

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My clutch cable was coming apart at the lever adjuster and my dealer changed it under warranty. It lasted about 6000miles
 

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Both my Vs (and a friend's '09 KLR650) came from the factory with the clutch mis-adjusted (in my humble opinion), with the clutch release point very far from the bars, near the lever's 'resting point'. I prefer mine to release closer to the bars so that it's easier to 'slip it' if that becomes necessary.

By adjusting for that, you DECREASE the tension on the cable a LOT! Think of it - IF it disengages the clutch just as you start to move the lever, then the additional movement of the lever to closer to the bars/ grip, means a quantum INCREASE in tension, an increase you are holding as long as you've got the lever fully against the bars. The way I've adjusted my two Vs and the KLR, means that any further movement of the clutch lever beyond the disengage point puts MINIMAL stress onto the cable.

BTW, the Green Hornet has 6,500 miles, while Big Red has 30,000, BOTH on the original cables. :thumb: :exactly:
 

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My 09 V has over 11,000 miles on it. Clutch cable looks fine - both ends - works fine. I spray some WD-40 and Dupont Teflon lube on both ends while working the clutch, every 3 or 4 months. Also opened up the cable guides two years ago when Invader first noted they were binding there. So, not clear why some are breaking after only 5,000 miles.
 
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