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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

Recently I had my 2011's stator replaced after the original one burned out and got a new battery at the same time. I also had them do the valve lash throttle body sync, coolant flush and refill, and a new air filter, plugs, and oil/filter.

Since then things seem to have been mostly fine, however, the bike used to start on the first push of the button every time. Now when it's cold I have to crack the throttle to get it to start and then it idles fine. I'd also say maybe 50% of the time it doesn't start on the first press even when it's warm.

Then, today, I dumped the clutch accidentally at a stoplight and I pulled it back in and, on the second try, started the bike and noticed that the clock had reset to 1:00.

Needless to say that creeped me out a bit, having been stranded far from home by the burned stator recently, so I returned home and broke out my multimeter and checked the battery voltage. Not running it read 12.2 volts, running at idle the same 12.2, I expected that result. Around 7k RPM, though, it read 12.8.

So... It seems to be working, but in my other mechanical experience, cars and airplanes specifically, I expected it to be more like 13.5 to 14 volts...

So my question, for those of you more experienced in this arena, is 12.8 volts an acceptable output for this charging system? Or is something not quite right? What's the deal with the clock resetting?

I'm going to take it back to the shop and have them check it out for sure but I'm certainly curious. If the clock is resetting I'm wondering if the starting problem is that the ECU is losing power as well.

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battery is dying or under charged. starting takes a bunch of current. voltage always drops some during start but if the battery is weak the voltage drops excessively and that turns stuff off, almost the same as disconnecting the battery momentarily. the clock has no non-volitile memory, so forgets what time it is and re-sets to "zero", which it 1:00 on the V

as for the voltages, they are too low. sounds like a regulator problem. have the battery tested, then do the diagnostics
 

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Discussion Starter #3
battery is dying. starting takes a bunch of current. voltage always drops some during start but if the battery is weak the voltage drops excessively and that turns stuff off, almost the same as disconnecting the battery momentarily. the clock has no non-volitile memory, so forgets what time it is and re-sets to "zero", which it 1:00 on the V
I get the why on the clock, but the battery is new, so is the charging system working correctly or not?

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Another Can Of Worms ? Afraid to Comment

Hi there,

Recently I had my 2011's stator replaced after the original one burned out and got a new battery at the same time. I also had them do the valve lash throttle body sync, coolant flush and refill, and a new air filter, plugs, and oil/filter.

Since then things seem to have been mostly fine, however, the bike used to start on the first push of the button every time. Now when it's cold I have to crack the throttle to get it to start and then it idles fine. I'd also say maybe 50% of the time it doesn't start on the first press even when it's warm.

Then, today, I dumped the clutch accidentally at a stoplight and I pulled it back in and, on the second try, started the bike and noticed that the clock had reset to 1:00.

Needless to say that creeped me out a bit, having been stranded far from home by the burned stator recently, so I returned home and broke out my multimeter and checked the battery voltage. Not running it read 12.2 volts, running at idle the same 12.2, I expected that result. Around 7k RPM, though, it read 12.8.

So... It seems to be working, but in my other mechanical experience, cars and airplanes specifically, I expected it to be more like 13.5 to 14 volts...

So my question, for those of you more experienced in this arena, is 12.8 volts an acceptable output for this charging system? Or is something not quite right? What's the deal with the clock resetting?

I'm going to take it back to the shop and have them check it out for sure but I'm certainly curious. If the clock is resetting I'm wondering if the starting problem is that the ECU is losing power as well.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Since you already have a meter, put it on volts ac and follow my stator testing post, chances are good that the stator is toast and possibly a bad connection in the 3 phase plug, I am suggesting you do this before you take it in, and keep your information to yourself, no mention of testing. I say that as expect to be handing $$$ more over, as replacing the regulator won't fix anything , and FYI, you only need a lost phase and run your bike for 1 hour and you will fry your stator. This will then cause the regulator to fail also. A common problem on some bikes was the 3 phase plug at the stator failing, only takes one burnt pin.

Like in the title, could you state the cost of the stator and total bill $$$$

My money is on burnt China stator, just guessing , FYI anyone spending roughly $450 for a new Delta OEM stator should spend a extra $100 ( which is what it should cost maximum for a used 4012941 Polaris plus the Triumph harness) So your whole bill should be somewhere around $1200 -$1400 .

So just went through with someone for testing stator;

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...eas-ecu-15a-fuse-blowing-2011-650-versys.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru.../218489-stator-testing-low-hi-beams-dead.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's what I was afraid of...

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Discussion Starter #6
Update:

Returned to the shop that did the work and had them check it out. They confirmed a burned out stator phase and were very forthcoming in making it right and making me happy.

I'll be back on the road for around 75$. Will look into the regulator upgrade when I have some time.

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Look at all the stator DIY posts. If you didn't get a OEM stator. I would recommend the regulator upgrade sooner rather than later. For $75.00 I bet it is not an OEM.
 

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Look at all the stator DIY posts. If you didn't get a OEM stator. I would recommend the regulator upgrade sooner rather than later. For $75.00 I bet it is not an OEM.
75$ is the difference between what I paid for the other one and this one, plus a new gasket.

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FYI Replacement Stator

Update:

Returned to the shop that did the work and had them check it out. They confirmed a burned out stator phase and were very forthcoming in making it right and making me happy.

I'll be back on the road for around 75$. Will look into the regulator upgrade when I have some time.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
If the $75 is the difference you pay, it is likely from RM Stator in Quebec , just a FYI , they were a reputable place. I no longer feel that way. Be aware, very few places you can get a after market delta wound stator for under $400 . If you paid around $115 it is a China Star Y connected stator,it will output 330 watts, however the wire gauge is one 18 gauge per phase, OEM Delta is two 2 per phase, if you think a single 18 gauge wire can carry 14 amps the same as two 18 gauge wires, you are mistaken.I did a post for those going with the China stator, if you convert to a Polaris regulator immediately , you are back in the ball park.

One more point, many think for $100 every 2 years isn't that bad, if you install the Polaris regulator immediately, we are talking lasting equal to or greater than the OEM stator. Wait and the minute you start using that china stator with the OEM regulator, you are starting to overheat the magnet wire, change over to the Series regulator 6 months or a year later and you could fry the China stator and the Polaris regulator, as the overheated magnet wire will have a insulation breakdown already occurred, the Series regulator switches rapidly above base load, instead of shunting excess power as heat, it allows the Volts AC to climb, and 48 to 60 VAC is possible to have across phases, combine that with insulation breakdown from previous overheat cycles = stator shorted turns = stator failure.


https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...oem-vs-ricks-stator-china-star-connected.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If the $75 is the difference you pay, it is likely from RM Stator in Quebec , just a FYI , they were a reputable place. I no longer feel that way. Be aware, very few places you can get a after market delta wound stator for under $400 . If you paid around $115 it is a China Star Y connected stator,it will output 330 watts, however the wire gauge is one 18 gauge per phase, OEM Delta is two 2 per phase, if you think a single 18 gauge wire can carry 14 amps the same as two 18 gauge wires, you are mistaken.I did a post for those going with the China stator, if you convert to a Polaris regulator immediately , you are back in the ball park.

One more point, many think for $100 every 2 years isn't that bad, if you install the Polaris regulator immediately, we are talking lasting equal to or greater than the OEM stator. Wait and the minute you start using that china stator with the OEM regulator, you are starting to overheat the magnet wire, change over to the Series regulator 6 months or a year later and you could fry the China stator and the Polaris regulator, as the overheated magnet wire will have a insulation breakdown already occurred, the Series regulator switches rapidly above base load, instead of shunting excess power as heat, it allows the Volts AC to climb, and 48 to 60 VAC is possible to have across phases, combine that with insulation breakdown from previous overheat cycles = stator shorted turns = stator failure.


https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...oem-vs-ricks-stator-china-star-connected.html
The advice is noted and valued, for the immediate moment I don't have the resources, though I can probably do the regulator sooner rather than later.

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