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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sure enough, the right side was almost 1/4" out. I shimmed it and it's fine. The left side was right on and did not need shimming. I'm sending these pics to Kawasaki with a complaint and also to my dealer for a head's up.
 

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Am I not seeing a small gap on the left side? Wasn't the right side gap bigger with the left side tightened?
 

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Interesting... Did you have to lift the motor somehow when you took out the right side mounting bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Am I not seeing a small gap on the left side? Wasn't the right side gap bigger with the left side tightened?
No there was not a gap of noticeable difference when I tightened the right side. All the gap was on the Right.
 

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Whoa! What is this engine gap problem!? I haven't heard of this before.....are the dealers taking care o fthis PRIOR to the sale? It seems to me they should fix this issue BEFORE the bike is sold.....and BEFORE it's on the showroom floor!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whoa! What is this engine gap problem!? I haven't heard of this before.....are the dealers taking care o fthis PRIOR to the sale? It seems to me they should fix this issue BEFORE the bike is sold.....and BEFORE it's on the showroom floor!!
Here's a complete history on this issue. Most dealers are unaware of it and I think Kawasaki is only addressing the issue as it comes up per individual. It should be a factory recall.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239&highlight=frame
 

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Dallasdon, the problem is with two washers like that I am betting your bolt does not engage enough threads on the mount bolt nut. That is the problem I noticed with two washers. Next time I head toward the hardware store I am going to buy a longer bolt so I can use two washers. I am worried about any lateral tension on the frame weld.

I still can't believe this passed Kawi quality control.
 

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For you guys using two washers on the right and then noticing that you don't have any gap on the right: That is because you have taken all of the gap out already. When you put two washers on the right, you are moving the engine left, tightening up the gap on the left side. If you put one washer on the right, you'll see a small gap on the left. I put one washer on each side and noticed almost no gap and evenly distributed the thread depth on the mounting bolts.
 

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First thanks for the excellent pictures,second,Kawasaki needs to address this,a year after the first reports,here and overseas and its still happening??? Third I just checked mine,still nice tight and flush on both sides.
 

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For you guys using two washers on the right and then noticing that you don't have any gap on the right: That is because you have taken all of the gap out already. When you put two washers on the right, you are moving the engine left, tightening up the gap on the left side. If you put one washer on the right, you'll see a small gap on the left. I put one washer on each side and noticed almost no gap and evenly distributed the thread depth on the mounting bolts.

I used one washer on both sides, however I could still have used another one on the right, but like I stated earlier; The bolt just isn't long enough to safely use two washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used one washer on both sides, however I could still have used another one on the right, but like I stated earlier; The bolt just isn't long enough to safely use two washers.
You can get a bolt 1/2" longer from Lowes in the Metric Bolt area. It cost $2.86 each. I couldn't find a self locking nut so I used a lock washer. Been there,done that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used one washer on both sides, however I could still have used another one on the right, but like I stated earlier; The bolt just isn't long enough to safely use two washers.

I took both bolts out at the same time and there was virtually no space on the left and about 1/4" on the right. I shimmed the right with a longer bolt and two washers. I had to use a lock washer and a standard nut because of the thread difference I couldn't use the factory nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First thanks for the excellent pictures,second,Kawasaki needs to address this,a year after the first reports,here and overseas and its still happening??? Third I just checked mine,still nice tight and flush on both sides.
When you checked yours, did you unbolt them and check for any space? If you just looked at them, they appear fine because they pulled the frame mount down above torque specs to close that distance.
 

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I took both bolts out at the same time and there was virtually no space on the left and about 1/4" on the right. I shimmed the right with a longer bolt and two washers. I had to use a lock washer and a standard nut because of the thread difference I couldn't use the factory nut.

Thanks, that is exactly what I am planning to do on my next trip to lowes. You already saw the problem with the bolt length and were way ahead of me.

I am curious to see how long (if at all) Kawasaki takes to issue a recall on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Torque value

does anyone know the torque value for this bolt.......thanks
The 2007 manual says 32 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, but I gurantee you that the right one on mine was 2 to 3 times that much because they had to pull the frame up to the engine. It was very, very hard to get off and I ended up using my Impact wrench to remove it.
 

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Cheap bolts are nuts!

Just a thought, but I'm betting that your average Lowe's bolt is not nearly as strong or as tough as a motor mount bolt from the bike's manufacturer. I go to the local ACO all the time, and get nuts and bolts for my many motorcycle restoration projects - but I always make sure I buy Grade 8 or higher. Fasteners on bikes see much more stress, strain, corrosion, etc. than your standard hardware store stuff. I'd certainly never use a standard hardware store bolt to secure a bike motor in it's mount. Just my two cents.
 
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