Have you been tracking fuel mileage before the change? I would be interested to know what the actuals are. Just because RPMs are lower at a certain speed doesn't necessarily equate to better fuel economy. Sometimes it take more fuel to maintain a lower RPM at a desired speed because of the power band and aerodynamic drag. Many of the motorcycles with 6 speeds actually attain their top speed in 5th gear.Well, changed the factory front and rear sprockets for a 15t front and 43t rear, it's like a whole different motorcycle. I can go 23mph in 1st gear at 7,000 RPMs and 44 MPH on second gear.
So I went from a 3.29 ratio to a 2.87 ratio and didn't have to change the number of links on the chain as the ratio for old and new came to 112 links for both - that's awesome.
It did lose 14.6% torque but gained 14.6% more speed which is fine by me because I'm not going to be doing any serious off-roading, this is for going through gravel and dirt roads and light trails on national parks and state parks.
At 70 MPH it's running at 7,800 RPMs where before I was spinning at 9,000 RPMs, so my fuel mileage will be much better and the engine wear will be much less.
I've read on the threads that older model would get a check engine light and ABS light when changing to this gear ratio but mine is a 2021 and did not have that issue. I went on a 5 mile ride and neither the check engine nor ABS lights ever came on.
I put a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check speedometer accuracy and it's 4 MPH off. At an indicated 60 mph it's actually 56mph per GPS and at an indicated 70 mph it's actually 66 mph per GPS. I can definitely live with that.
I'm extremely happy with its performance now. Kawasaki advertises it as an adventure tourer but they geared it more for offroad and light touring. I simply changed the gearing for great touring and light off-roading - that fits my use case perfectly now.
Thanks
I'm quite sure, the numbers are accurate. That is what the tach says and the speed reported was using GPS and looking at RPMs at that speed. Gearing is now perfect, max torque power band of the engine is fairly flat from 3,600 RPMs to 11,500 RPMs as measured by DynoJet test. So I'm quite happy with the performance now as I have full use of max torque through most of the useful power band.That is quite a change in gearing. Most would just go with either sprocket change but not both. Are you sure about your mph & rpms? They both seem high to me. On my stock geared 08 Versys 650 @ 60mph on the gps I'm turning about 4800 rpm in 6th gear. 75 -80 mph is in the 7000 rpm area. The higher gearing in real world driving hills/mountains and head winds will cause you to shift down a gear or two. You will loose 6th and maybe even 5th in some situations. Keep us posted as to how it works.
Fuel mileage has not been affected, has not improved but has not reduced either. The gearing seems perfect now. Remember that I changed one sprocket first, then took it for a ride, didn't get what I needed and changed the second sprocket, that did it.Have you been tracking fuel mileage before the change? I would be interested to know what the actuals are. Just because RPMs are lower at a certain speed doesn't necessarily equate to better fuel economy. Sometimes it take more fuel to maintain a lower RPM at a desired speed because of the power band and aerodynamic drag. Many of the motorcycles with 6 speeds actually attain their top speed in 5th gear.
Don't forget to compensate for the odometer change. Use the GPS miles instead.
www.gearingcommander.com
What year X300 do you have that both sprocket were changed out? The earlier X300 from 2017 - 2019 (ish) for sure really messed with the dash with errors and blanking out the gear indicator and lit the ABS and Engine. I have a 2021 and changed the front only to a 15 Tooth rubber bumpered sprocket (keep noise down) and it has change the RPM more to my liking. 40 mph = 4300 rpm, 50 mph = 5500 rpm, 60 mph = 6600 rpm, 70 mph = 7800 rpm, 80 mph = 9000 rpm. I'm not sure if I want to go to a 43 in the rear but if it is no problem with the dashboard I may do just that. Once rolling out on the street I still start out in 2nd gear as 1st gear most of the time is worthless. But better than the stock 14 tooth front that made 1st gear unusable all together on the normal city riding. At least now I can get about 19 mph before my engine just sounds like it is screaming. ~ 7000 rpm.Well, changed the factory front and rear sprockets for a 15t front and 43t rear, it's like a whole different motorcycle. I can go 23mph in 1st gear at 7,000 RPMs and 44 MPH on second gear.
So I went from a 3.29 ratio to a 2.87 ratio and didn't have to change the number of links on the chain as the ratio for old and new came to 112 links for both - that's awesome.
It did lose 14.6% torque but gained 14.6% more speed which is fine by me because I'm not going to be doing any serious off-roading, this is for going through gravel and dirt roads and light trails on national parks and state parks.
At 70 MPH it's running at 7,800 RPMs where before I was spinning at 9,000 RPMs, so my fuel mileage will be much better and the engine wear will be much less.
I've read on the threads that older model would get a check engine light and ABS light when changing to this gear ratio but mine is a 2021 and did not have that issue. I went on a 5 mile ride and neither the check engine nor ABS lights ever came on.
I put a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check speedometer accuracy and it's 4 MPH off. At an indicated 60 mph it's actually 56mph per GPS and at an indicated 70 mph it's actually 66 mph per GPS. I can definitely live with that.
I'm extremely happy with its performance now. Kawasaki advertises it as an adventure tourer but they geared it more for offroad and light touring. I simply changed the gearing for great touring and light off-roading - that fits my use case perfectly now.
Thanks
Just a side note first: If rear sprocket isn't worn it is easier and much less cost and effort to change the front to a 15 tooth rubber bumpered sprocket for the same results (about 10% change without computer problems if you go more then about 10%). If your stock 46 tooth rear is needing replacement ignore the 12 lines below this comment.Just got a '20 and trying to find sprockets in our rural-ish area. Kawasaki dealer is stumped. I'd at least like to try the 43t rear as a winter project. Where are you finding and purchasing the sprockets? Link?
Thx!
Where did you get the 15T rubber bumper (dampened) sprocket?What year X300 do you have that both sprocket were changed out? The earlier X300 from 2017 - 2019 (ish) for sure really messed with the dash with errors and blanking out the gear indicator and lit the ABS and Engine. I have a 2021 and changed the front only to a 15 Tooth rubber bumpered sprocket (keep noise down) and it has change the RPM more to my liking. 40 mph = 4300 rpm, 50 mph = 5500 rpm, 60 mph = 6600 rpm, 70 mph = 7800 rpm, 80 mph = 9000 rpm. I'm not sure if I want to go to a 43 in the rear but if it is no problem with the dashboard I may do just that. Once rolling out on the street I still start out in 2nd gear as 1st gear most of the time is worthless. But better than the stock 14 tooth front that made 1st gear unusable all together on the normal city riding. At least now I can get about 19 mph before my engine just sounds like it is screaming. ~ 7000 rpm.
I just bought a 2021 Wee Versys also.Well, changed the factory front and rear sprockets for a 15t front and 43t rear, it's like a whole different motorcycle. I can go 23mph in 1st gear at 7,000 RPMs and 44 MPH on second gear.
So I went from a 3.29 ratio to a 2.87 ratio and didn't have to change the number of links on the chain as the ratio for old and new came to 112 links for both - that's awesome.
It did lose 14.6% torque but gained 14.6% more speed which is fine by me because I'm not going to be doing any serious off-roading, this is for going through gravel and dirt roads and light trails on national parks and state parks.
At 70 MPH it's running at 7,800 RPMs where before I was spinning at 9,000 RPMs, so my fuel mileage will be much better and the engine wear will be much less.
I've read on the threads that older model would get a check engine light and ABS light when changing to this gear ratio but mine is a 2021 and did not have that issue. I went on a 5 mile ride and neither the check engine nor ABS lights ever came on.
I put a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check speedometer accuracy and it's 4 MPH off. At an indicated 60 mph it's actually 56mph per GPS and at an indicated 70 mph it's actually 66 mph per GPS. I can definitely live with that.
I'm extremely happy with its performance now. Kawasaki advertises it as an adventure tourer but they geared it more for offroad and light touring. I simply changed the gearing for great touring and light off-roading - that fits my use case perfectly now.
Thanks
I'm still putting on the break-in mileage; only 110 miles so far.
My Youtube video explains everything please watch it first. What to buy and where to buy it.Where did you get the 15T rubber bumper (dampened) sprocket?
Hi. How did this change affected how the bike handles at low speeds? Need to use the clutch a lot? How is first gear? More or less usable?Well, changed the factory front and rear sprockets for a 15t front and 43t rear, it's like a whole different motorcycle. I can go 23mph in 1st gear at 7,000 RPMs and 44 MPH on second gear.
So I went from a 3.29 ratio to a 2.87 ratio and didn't have to change the number of links on the chain as the ratio for old and new came to 112 links for both - that's awesome.
It did lose 14.6% torque but gained 14.6% more speed which is fine by me because I'm not going to be doing any serious off-roading, this is for going through gravel and dirt roads and light trails on national parks and state parks.
At 70 MPH it's running at 7,800 RPMs where before I was spinning at 9,000 RPMs, so my fuel mileage will be much better and the engine wear will be much less.
I've read on the threads that older model would get a check engine light and ABS light when changing to this gear ratio but mine is a 2021 and did not have that issue. I went on a 5 mile ride and neither the check engine nor ABS lights ever came on.
I put a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check speedometer accuracy and it's 4 MPH off. At an indicated 60 mph it's actually 56mph per GPS and at an indicated 70 mph it's actually 66 mph per GPS. I can definitely live with that.
I'm extremely happy with its performance now. Kawasaki advertises it as an adventure tourer but they geared it more for offroad and light touring. I simply changed the gearing for great touring and light off-roading - that fits my use case perfectly now.
Thanks
I don't know about the 650, but I just changed my Versys X 300 to 15T front, and 44T rear. It made the bike more comfortable on the road, and the lower gears still seem to have enough grunt for the light trails and dirt roads I'll be riding. Highway mpg according to the computer seems to be averaging between 65 to 70 mpg. Personally, I'm not fond of slipping the clutch because it makes them wear prematurely and can warp the plates if it gets too hot. I'm happy with the change in gearing, but YMMV.Hi. How did this change affected how the bike handles at low speeds? Need to use the clutch a lot? How is first gear? More or less usable?
Thanks
