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With an o-ring, x-ring chain you do not get any lube under the rollers. ie sealed chain. They are pre greased and sealed with the rings.
My understanding is that the hinges are sealed but the rollers are not. The rollers are on the outside of the hinges. Sorry for the non-technical description. As I have been learning more about chains recently it has changed my thoughts on lubes. We need something thin enough at first to penetrate under the rollers and then stay there to lubricate.

Fortnine did a quasi-scientific comparison of lubes including a friction test. Plain oil did extremely well, probably because it seeps into those tight rollers. There is a good description in the first 3 minutes of the video, but here he shows exactly where our manual lube needs to get into.

https://youtu.be/VnPYdcbcAe0?t=225

In this diagram, part 5 is the roller and it rolls around part 4 (and the barrel on part 2). The lube needs to be in that tiny space, and it gets there when we apply lube manually. The sealed lube is between part 3 and the inside of part 4. From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_chain



The cross section in this article shows another view. 1.3.2 Sealed Roller Chain



And in this drawing the green and blue barrels are rollers. You can see the x and o rings don't trap lube for the rollers, just in the hinge. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring_chain

 

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...I would love to have a pair of dyno boots. Where do you get them at?:wink2:....
Tim - I figured that YOU of anyone on the Forum would get it right away - I use FLYING boots.

:wink2:
 

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Please stop saying that we cannot lube behind the seals nor under the rollers. That's just wrong.


Rusting (swelling) pins are the reason why kinks appear. If water can get past the rings, so does lube. It may be because the seals are damaged sooner or later, but that doesn't matter.

You want lube to be the first to have the opportunity to get past the rings. Neglect will kill your chain, and dry seals will fail faster too.

As for rollers, they are obviously not sealed, you can see it with your own eyes. These are the ones taking the pressure, while the pins take the tension.
 

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i'm new to owning a 650v. i've done plenty on bigger aprilias and always used the did vx525 gold chains. i'd generally get 26-28k miles on the caponord before replacing sprockets and chain. i have 86 k on the 2015 capo and it's on the second replacement set. i used a tutoro oiler though so maybe that helped. i'll be putting one on the versys as well.
 

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That link looks like it's starting to bind, definitely new chain time. It's not dangerous per se if it is only just starting to get that way. eventually the bound links could fail causing it to throw a chain which is dangerous.

I personally use a DID VX2 X ring chain. The specific chain for the V650 is a 520 114 link chain, if you still have the stock sprocket sizes. MAKE SURE TO GET A RIVETED MASTER LINK, chains only ship with a clip on link.
 

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Look at the sticky links as they roll over the sprocket and see if they are able to follow the bend around the sprocket. Next do the chain wear measurement with the affected links in the measured section and with it not in the measured area. (you would have to straighten the links to do the measurement) It will tell you if the links are worn more than the rest of the chain. Can you straighten them out by hand? Are the o-rings missing in the sticky links? If the wear is in limits and you can move the links by hand you might just need to lube the chain more often.
 

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The LAST "DID..." chain I had did NOT last long, so I replaced it w/ an EK520SRX2 chain, which is 'holding-up' VERY nicely...!

:thumb: - :thumb:
 

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I was able to "release" some partially frozen links.

I have a new method and device to clean the chain, coming soon ;)

my original chain has now 33k km.
 

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I was able to "release" some partially frozen links.

I have a new method and device to clean the chain, coming soon ;)

my original chain has now 33k km.
Highly interested. I just replace a good chain, except for one stiff link.
 
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New Chain...Gang

Installed a new EK 520 SRX2 chain and OEM sprockets last week.

Had been running DID chains in the past and they will now stay in the past. Only got 12k miles out of the last DID chain and I installed new OEM sprockets along with the chain.

EK is made in Japan not Vietnam or Chiner. The quality is outstanding. Every chain I have installed on a motorcycle going back to 1960, always has a fair amount of stretch during the first 100 or so miles. This EK is the first chain that has not stretched and I now have 150 miles on it.

Price wise they are only a few dollars more than similar DID or others.

If the initial 150 miles is any indicator, I believe this will be a long lasting chain.

Stay tuned.
 

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Installed a new EK 520 SRX2 chain and OEM sprockets last week.

Had been running DID chains in the past and they will now stay in the past. Only got 12k miles out of the last DID chain and I installed new OEM sprockets along with the chain.

EK is made in Japan not Vietnam or Chiner. The quality is outstanding. Every chain I have installed on a motorcycle going back to 1960, always has a fair amount of stretch during the first 100 or so miles. This EK is the first chain that has not stretched and I now have 150 miles on it.

Price wise they are only a few dollars more than similar DID or others.

If the initial 150 miles is any indicator, I believe this will be a long lasting chain.

Stay tuned.
I have over 15,000 KM on my EK 520 SRX2 chain, no stretch.
 

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DID 520 VX2 fully stretched for 13K miles

Installed a new EK 520 SRX2 chain and OEM sprockets last week.

Had been running DID chains in the past and they will now stay in the past. Only got 12k miles out of the last DID chain and I installed new OEM sprockets along with the chain.

EK is made in Japan not Vietnam or Chiner. The quality is outstanding. Every chain I have installed on a motorcycle going back to 1960, always has a fair amount of stretch during the first 100 or so miles. This EK is the first chain that has not stretched and I now have 150 miles on it.

Price wise they are only a few dollars more than similar DID or others.

If the initial 150 miles is any indicator, I believe this will be a long lasting chain.

Stay tuned.
Last year I replaced the stock chain at 19K miles with DID 520 VX2. With just 13K miles on it is fully stretched out, the chain adjuster nuts are at near end of adjustment. This time I will go with your experience and get EK.
 

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Last year I replaced the stock chain at 19K miles with DID 520 VX2. With just 13K miles on it is fully stretched out, the chain adjuster nuts are at near end of adjustment. This time I will go with your experience and get EK.
Make sure and replace both sprockets at the same time.
 

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Make sure and replace both sprockets at the same time.
I was forced into installing a new chain on a road trip without a sprocket change. The shop that I found to do the work could not remove the drive sprocket, They were trying with a 12 point socket, duh. The bike definitely had a vibration with the new chain and I wound up losing a few screws/bolts due to it. The chain survived the remaining 4k miles on the trip but was shot when I got home. I ordered up a new nut($24) installed fresh sprockets and another chain, a D.I.D. that lasted for 29k miles but was replaced due to a stiff link. It had not yet begun to do the death spiral end of life stretching yet.

After reading up in EK chains I bought one for my next replacement.

Life was simpler in my driveshaft days. Maybe a Guzzi for my next bike....
 

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Another vote for the EK 520SRX2 chain. I used the standard rivet master link, which requires buying a tool. Get the heavy duty chain breaker/rivet tool, it is worth it. Others have reported the new-ish EK screw master link works perfectly, and you don't need to buy a tool for it.

Get new sprockets whenever you replace the chain.
 

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Life was simpler in my driveshaft days. Maybe a Guzzi for my next bike....
I have had 2 shaft drive bikes. The first was a 1982 Honda V-45 Sabre. The early shaft drive bikes suffered from rear suspension jacking due to the shaft drive.

The second bike was a 2012 Connie 14. There was not a hint of shaft jacking on that bike and it was a bullet. That sucker would cruise at a buck 30 all day long...just tow your gas station behind you cuz she would really suck the gas at that speed.
 
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