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All things being equal, what is the average life of the stock chain before it should be replaced?
 

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Depends are how much WD40 you use on the chain. Ed will explain.

My sprockets and chain were replaced at 27,000km but I did change to a 44t rear sprocket at 15,000km to change gearing but this may of accelerated chain failure. I am hard on a throttle and this also add to faster wear/stretch than a more conservative rider.
 

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I sold my bike with 22,000 miles on it the stock chain looked almost new and its still on the bike with the new owner..Just rode with him friday.
 

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The more you clean and lube the longer it will last.

I cleaned and lubed the original chain far less than recommended and it lasted about 22,000.
 

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Depends are how much WD40 you use on the chain. Ed will explain.

My sprockets and chain were replaced at 27,000km but I did change to a 44t rear sprocket at 15,000km to change gearing but this may of accelerated chain failure. I am hard on a throttle and this also add to faster wear/stretch than a more conservative rider.
WD-40 Chain out lives bike! ;):D Eddie will explain! :thumb:

I have heard alot of different miles? I really don't know? :eek:
I use nothing but WD40 on my chains, and I spray them ANYTIME I've ridden 50 miles or more while riding from home, when I get home while the chain's still warm, or, on LONG trips as soon as I get to my camping site, plus usually once in the middle of the day (while I'm taking a break), MORE often if it's raining.

My '08 has 51,xxx miles on the ORIGINAL chain, tho' I replaced the front sprocket (and reversed the OEM rear sprocket) at 29,xxx miles. The chain on my '09 (which was a 'left-over' that sat in the dealer's yard for a year and a half...) wore out on my D2D trip last June, so I replaced it and the front sprocket (reversed the rear same time) at 39,030 kms (about 24,200 miles). I figure the reason it "died" early was a combination of sitting for the year and a half in rain/ dust, and the fact that I did NOT do my usual mid-day WD40 spray on the D2D ride for a combination of factors.-:thumbdown:

Just had an e-mail from "watt-man" who figures the 51,xxx is the BEST he's seen!

:thumb:
 

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My last chain with orings were replaced at 52.000 km, I use this automatic chain oiler http://www.willionssas.com/gal_wlube.html

To test how well the automatic lubricator can extend the life of the chain, I installed a chain without orings cost $ 17 and only be lubricated every 500 km with spray and in this way only reached 3700 km, now again I installed another equally and with the automatic lubricator and takes 7250 km and have not spent half of his life.

So the duration depends on the constant cleaning, lubrication and proper chain tension.
 

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Grinding noise from chain

If my mechanic left my rear wheel alignment like this will it cause my chain to bind & make a horrid grinding noise?

I put this somewhere else - but i think it belongs here!
 

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Probably not but my guess he did it that way because he is sloppy or that is the way he found it. Marks are not that accurate. Why don't you readjust the chain? Ain't 'xactly rocket science.
 

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I am looking for 20,000+ on the Versys. I had to replace the drive set on my KLR at close to 15,000 due to a big rock smashing the rear sprocket and chain, bent the sprocket and put a flat spot in the chain. The friend I was riding with had just got a new set in the mail and felt sorry for me and we installed it so I didn't have to push the bike back from WV! :thumb:

Clean it and lube it and keep it in adjustment and they will last. ignore it and it'll fail when you least want it too. :censored:

BTW I ordered him a new set before I rode home.
 

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Dear WalterMitty,

I could do that - need a paddock stand (not available here!) Need a air-conditioned garage/shed (don't have that either). Need a torque wrench (don't have one of those yet - but will by tonight)!

By the next weekend it will be done.

I think I need to get a new chain anyway + a Stotoiler will help.
 

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Dear WalterMitty,

I could do that - need a paddock stand (not available here!) Need a air-conditioned garage/shed (don't have that either). Need a torque wrench (don't have one of those yet - but will by tonight)!

By the next weekend it will be done.

I think I need to get a new chain anyway + a Stotoiler will help.
You don't really "need" any of those to adjust your chain. With the bike on the side stand remove the cotter pin and loosen the rear axle with factory tool kit. Back off the adjusters enough so that you can kick the tire/wheel forward to a little bit forward of the next mark. Tighten the axle a little and then pull the axle back slowly to align exactly with that mark alternating between sides.

Now adjust the chain. You want 25 - 35mm of slack when the bike is on sidestand halfway between sprockets. I use a piece of cardboard pressed against the swingarm. Mark the cardboard with the chain pressed up and then mark it when it is pressed down. The distance between marks is your chain slack. Use the chain adjuster bolts to tighten it. Go slow, one flat on each side at a time. A little loose is better than too tight. Once you get it where you want it tighten the rear axle as tight as you can get it with your tool kit then a little more to line up the cotterpin hole.

Scottoilers are nice especially if you use you bike for transportation in all kinds of weather.
 

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You don't really "need" any of those to adjust your chain.
I just put a new chain and sprocket set on the Versys this morning. I used these marks to ensure that the rear wheel is tracking straight and the sprockets line up. For example, I adjusted the chain side to 3.5ish mark to give proper slack. Then, I adjusted the brake side to match the drive side. As long as these marks are the same, I figured the wheel was straight. Are you saying that these marks are not accurate?

Dave the Raves wheel in the above pictures is not straight. The right is not the same as the left.
 

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If my mechanic left my rear wheel alignment like this will it cause my chain to bind & make a horrid grinding noise?

I put this somewhere else - but i think it belongs here!
Those marks are just a guide. UNTIL you check your rear wheel alignment, you will NOT know where the reference should be.

...Are you saying that these marks are not accurate?...
See above.

Here's a thread:
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22046
 

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I just love you guys!

Thanks for the advice.

Just a quick moan! Why is it that the official Kawaski parts catalogue shows the castled nut holding the axle at the rear sprocket as an 18mm. It's way bigger than that & last night I took a punt & brought 24 & 25 sockets NEITHER OF WHICH FIT!!

To save me taking another punt - does anyone know the actual size? Apparently Kawasaki don't!
 

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I just love you guys!

Thanks for the advice.

Just a quick moan! Why is it that the official Kawaski parts catalogue shows the castled nut holding the axle at the rear sprocket as an 18mm. It's way bigger than that & last night I took a punt & brought 24 & 25 sockets NEITHER OF WHICH FIT!!

To save me taking another punt - does anyone know the actual size? Apparently Kawasaki don't!
Use the included wrench in the tool kit.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I just love you guys!

Thanks for the advice.

Just a quick moan! Why is it that the official Kawaski parts catalogue shows the castled nut holding the axle at the rear sprocket as an 18mm. It's way bigger than that & last night I took a punt & brought 24 & 25 sockets NEITHER OF WHICH FIT!!

To save me taking another punt - does anyone know the actual size? Apparently Kawasaki don't!
18mm is the size of the shank not the head. It measures 1.055 which comes out to about 27mm or a 1 1/16" will work.
 

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I just love you guys!

Thanks for the advice.

Just a quick moan! Why is it that the official Kawaski parts catalogue shows the castled nut holding the axle at the rear sprocket as an 18mm. It's way bigger than that & last night I took a punt & brought 24 & 25 sockets NEITHER OF WHICH FIT!!

To save me taking another punt - does anyone know the actual size? Apparently Kawasaki don't!
18mm is the size of the shank not the head. It measures 1.055 which comes out to about 27mm or a 1 1/16" will work.
As waltermitty said - they ALWAYS show bolts/ nuts by the shank size, NOT the size of the 'hex' (UNLESS you have an early Brit bike in Whitworth - which used the size of one 'FLAT' on the hex for sizing... - and here's a pic of a 3/16 W beside a tape!)... or TWO....
 

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