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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

I'm experiencing some binding of my chain on my rear sprocket. It is about every 2.5 turns of the rear wheel that the chain binds up and then releases. I'm not sure if I need to replace the rear sprocket, or the chain, or both?

Here I took a video to show the binding issue that I'm talking about because describing it proved difficult.

Thanks!

Tenuki

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm assuming the chain is stock. Bike has 12k miles, i've owned it since 7500 miles. Not sure what kind of chain comes on the bike new, but the current chain is a DID (as I'm sure you can see in the video). The rear sprocket was replaced by the original owner with a 46 tooth when the bike was relatively new.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm fairly certain the rear sprocket is not aluminum. There is another user on here that posted a picture tutorial using the same rear sprocket.

You are right, I got it mixed up, 46 tooth is stock, it has a 44 tooth on it now.

So the question is: Do I need to replace the chain AND the sprocket?

I can see some wear on the sprocket, but it doesn't look like the teeth are worn out.

I am also looking for recommendations on a new chain and where to buy it.

Thanks!

Tenuki
 

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I didn't use a rubber damped front sprocket and I can't tell any difference. Am I missing something?
 

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Just replaced front and rear sprockets and chain, used JT steel sprockets and DID chain, cannot feel or hear any difference.I did put a 43 tooth on rear and like it a lot.
 

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When you replace that chain and both sprockets, you should make certain that they are aligned properly. There are threads galore here on that subject. Motion Pro make an inexpensive tool that works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I hoped to do the work today so I could have the bike ready to ride on my commute monday, but I couldn't find the front sprocket in stock anywhere nearby. Got it ordered from my local shop, and I'll go get it and a chain on Tuesday. I'm going to throw the original 46 tooth on the rear as it has no visible signs of wear and I want to try out the different gearing.

Thanks for the help diagnosing my problem. As a noob to chained bikes - my last bike was shaft drive - I was pretty sure I needed to replace everything, but its good to have a good resource to double check with.

Thanks,

Tenuki
 

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I hoped to do the work today so I could have the bike ready to ride on my commute monday, but I couldn't find the front sprocket in stock anywhere nearby. Got it ordered from my local shop, and I'll go get it and a chain on Tuesday. I'm going to throw the original 46 tooth on the rear as it has no visible signs of wear and I want to try out the different gearing.

Thanks for the help diagnosing my problem. As a noob to chained bikes - my last bike was shaft drive - I was pretty sure I needed to replace everything, but its good to have a good resource to double check with.

Thanks,

Tenuki
BTW

Many people had major problem unscrewing the lug on the front sprocket
Some of them did mention doing the work with a case of beer, but none the less, it seems like worker at kawasaki shop are frustrated at something and they release their tension by screwing that nut to oblivion !

Good luck

LOP
 

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Be sure to bend back the locking tab. I put a 2X4 through the rear wheel across the swingarm, a heavy foot on the rear brake, and used an electric impact with a 1 1/16" socket on the nut. Spun right off! On install I torqued it to the service manual spec of 92 ft/lbs. I think the 2X4 was unnecessary. I didn't even try to get the nut off without the impact; thanks for the heads up from you guys. It would not surprise me at all to find more than a few over-torqued from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got chain and sprockets changed out a couple of weeks ago now, and everything came of fine. Seems the front sprocket was under-torqued on mine. After bending back the tab I had my socket on an 18" breaker bar, and with the socket on the nut as I was positioning the 2x4, holding light pressure on the nut to keep it in place, it broke free. I only had one hand on the breaker bar at the time and was not putting any significant force on it at all. So I'm not sure if it was like that from the factory or if the guy before me had messed with it... but yeah I'm glad its on to factory specs now!
 

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I'm jealous. I had a 250# roomie standing on the brake, a 2x4 through the rear swingarm, and I STILL couldn't get it off with an electric 1/2" and 1 & 1/16th socket (its one thousanth of an inch off).

Took it to the professionals.
 

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I would suggest returning to stock sized sprockets unless you have a unique use for the bike. IMO they offer the best combination of acceleration and back road cruising. There is always a trade off if you go up or down in final drive gearing.

A chain tool (breaker/riveter) is something you'll only use once every few years but will pay for itself if you DIY and make the job easy. Lots of YouTube how to videos on how to use the tool. This is the kit I have.

Tip: Don't leave the bike in gear while loosening the front sprocket. It'll put too much force on the transmission. Instead stick a 2x4 through the rear wheel to prevent it from turning and leave the bike in neutral. As others have said, you'll need an impact wrench or breaker bar for this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Chain-Splitter-Motorbike-Riveting/dp/B01EZGWRXM/ref=sr_1_3/167-3435426-3696036

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-2-in-dr-extendable-breaker-bar/A-p8224768e
 

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FWIW - I was able to remove the countershaft sprocket on my '08 w/ a "Craftsman" 1/2" air-impact wrench; I could NOT remove the one on my '09 w/ an "Ingersol Rand 2131" 1/2" air-impact wrench (that removes at 500#/' !!!) so I took it to the Kawi shop who did remove it (for a case of beer); then used the "Ingersol Rand" again when it was time to change the '15 countershaft sprocket.

THIS time it took all of 2 seconds to remove....

:thumb: - :thumb:
 

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FWIW - I was able to remove the countershaft sprocket on my '08 w/ a "Craftsman" 1/2" air-impact wrench; I could NOT remove the one on my '09 w/ an "Ingersol Rand 2131" 1/2" air-impact wrench (that removes at 500#/' !!!) so I took it to the Kawi shop who did remove it (for a case of beer); then used the "Ingersol Rand" again when it was time to change the '15 countershaft sprocket.

THIS time it took all of 2 seconds to remove....

:thumb: - :thumb:
I know from my ZRX that Kawi used to like the red Loctite. Throw some heat on the fasteners and they'll come right off.
 

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As of 2011 K's lawyers still like the red Loctite... like on the footpeg mounting bolts. K slathers that stuff on like a sailor uses after shave on his first night in port. I like a heat gun, no discolorations. On the bike, I don't what a heat gun would do to a sailor. :eek:
 
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