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I cleaned an lubed the chain yesterday and took an initial measurement and I had about 1.6" of chain travel so after cleaning I decided to tighten that up a bit. I'll say that I did not notice this before but now the chain loosens and tightens during the rotation. I set the tension to 1.25 but it will tighten up to about .125" during the course of a revolution. This can't be normal?
Do you recommend wet lube or a wax style? I used a wax type but the chain sure seems stiff now when cold. I'm sure it warms up under use and is fine. It has 15k on the chain and is probably getting due for replacement what chains do ya'll prefer?
Oh and I read the chain / alignment thread but didn't see this covered where the chain tension varies.
 

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Correct; chains don't wear in a uniform fashion. Rotate the wheel until the tightest point in the chain is about halfway between the sprockets, and take your before and after slack measurements from there. Also, just before you tighten the axle nut, place an Allen wrench (doesn't have to be an Allen wrench but that's what most folks use; 6mm often does the trick) between the sprocket and the upper run of the chain, and then rotate the wheel backward to lock it in place against the adjusters, and hold while tightening the axle nut. This will prevent the wheel from moving slightly when the axle nut is being torqued down and throwing off your slack and/or alignment.
 

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Like Doug said...when you tighten the axle bolt the chain may tighten or loosen.

Also, I prefer to measure the chain slack when the bike is on the SIDE stand. I put it up on the CENTER stand to adjust, and then place it back on the SIDE stand and re-measure. If you do it this way you will notice that, on the CENTER stand when you adjust it and tighten the axle, as soon as you place it back on the SIDE stand the chain will probably be extremely tight. So, when on the CENTER stand leave a little play. Or do what Doug said with the allen wrench.

As for new chains, it's a pick of the litter. I prefer the Bike Master brand. Been using them for a few years and I get them at my local dealership. I think they're strong, durable and fairly priced.
As for sprockets, I use whatever my dealership recommends. Many times I've had different brands for the front and back but I've been told that as long as they're steel sprockets they should be good to go!

And chain cleaner...Pro Honda brand. Chain lube...I'm a Bel-Ray fan!
 

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...I'll say that I did not notice this before but now the chain loosens and tightens during the rotation. I set the tension to 1.25 but it will tighten up to about .125" during the course of a revolution. This can't be normal?....
Sounds to me that your chain is worn-out. That's the usual cause of it loosening and tightening during a rotation, as links that are 'seized' go over the front sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies, that's exactly what I did was to find the tightest spot and set the adjustment there. The alignment marks are really off, at least a 1/2 mark or more. It's a DID chain on there now, just ordered up another. Unsure at this point what makes one X/O ring chain better than another to warrant $40 or more dollars over another. I guess it's just experience to know what works well for you.
 

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I got a chain and sprocket kit from amazon for $100 earlier this year. Was DID brand and forget whos sprockets, but brand name ones anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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DID's economy grade 520VO O-ring (not X-ring) chain comes with a clip link only.

"The rivet link requires a tool to install where the other types do not. However, based on testing by EK the rivet master link is 100% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. The screw type link is about 95% as reliable as the rest of the links in the chain, but in some cases there can be clearance issues with the part that sticks out. The clip link is only about 70% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. Since your chain is only as strong as the weakest link we at MotoMummy only provide rivet links with all chains we sell. It's the safest and most reliable method."

Look under Moto Mummy
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...ws-versys-do-not-copy-paste-other-forums.html
 

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I prefer liquid chain lube Dupont, my last chain seemed to get a lot of stiff points using wax lube. Hash marks are not that accurate, so an chain alignment tool is helpful, around $10 on ebay. Grease Ninja tool makes applying lube much easier. I cleaned the outside plate of the master link then painted it with some nail polish, this makes it easy to know when you have lubed the full rotation of the chain. I went with a 44T rear sprocket, slightly lower revs on the hwy and I don’t notice any power difference.
 

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I prefer liquid chain lube Dupont, my last chain seemed to get a lot of stiff points using wax lube. Hash marks are not that accurate, so an chain alignment tool is helpful, around $10 on ebay. Grease Ninja tool makes applying lube much easier. I cleaned the outside plate of the master link then painted it with some nail polish, this makes it easy to know when you have lubed the full rotation of the chain. I went with a 44T rear sprocket, slightly lower revs on the hwy and I don’t notice any power difference.
I had been thinking of a solution to mark the chain so I didn`t over or under lube it. I think I rotate the chain more than needed just so I don`t miss any of it.
 

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Soon to add to How To Forum

DID's economy grade 520VO O-ring (not X-ring) chain comes with a clip link only.

"The rivet link requires a tool to install where the other types do not. However, based on testing by EK the rivet master link is 100% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. The screw type link is about 95% as reliable as the rest of the links in the chain, but in some cases there can be clearance issues with the part that sticks out. The clip link is only about 70% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. Since your chain is only as strong as the weakest link we at MotoMummy only provide rivet links with all chains we sell. It's the safest and most reliable method."
Thanks for the post.
 

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Eddie / Nail Polish

I had been thinking of a solution to mark the chain so I didn`t over or under lube it. I think I rotate the chain more than needed just so I don`t miss any of it.
This is a trick that came from Eddie, real simple and it stands out, pick your favorite nail polish, >:) , or your significant others nail polish :rolleyes: and paint one link. Real easy to pick out.
 

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DID's economy grade 520VO O-ring (not X-ring) chain comes with a clip link only.

"The rivet link requires a tool to install where the other types do not. However, based on testing by EK the rivet master link is 100% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. The screw type link is about 95% as reliable as the rest of the links in the chain, but in some cases there can be clearance issues with the part that sticks out. The clip link is only about 70% as strong/reliable as the rest of the links in the chain. Since your chain is only as strong as the weakest link we at MotoMummy only provide rivet links with all chains we sell. It's the safest and most reliable method."
Look under Moto Mummy
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...er-forums.html
Thanks and great resource, I saved the link for later review. and yep on the rivet vs clip link. I did buy a couple rivet links to use, just didn't list them in the parts purchase. Bought 2 so I can screw the first one up...
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I prefer liquid chain lube Dupont, my last chain seemed to get a lot of stiff points using wax lube. Hash marks are not that accurate, so an chain alignment tool is helpful, around $10 on ebay. Grease Ninja tool makes applying lube much easier. I cleaned the outside plate of the master link then painted it with some nail polish, this makes it easy to know when you have lubed the full rotation of the chain. I went with a 44T rear sprocket, slightly lower revs on the hwy and I don’t notice any power difference.
I was considering a few less teeth on the rear sprocket. Mainly in hoping to tame some of the jumpiness in 1st / 2nd. Some is throttle control I'm sure but it sure seems twitchy. How does that affect the speedo?

ETA: Being a hobbiest machinist and having some spare HDPE and Aluminum block around I was going to make my own "ninja" and may play around with a laser chain aligner.
 
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