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Discussion Starter #1
After installing my new rear sprocket today I managed to break off one of my chain tensioning bolts. I drilled it out and tapped new threads. I am embarrassed to ask but what are the bolts made of? Plain steel, stainless steel or other? I know they go into the aluminum swingarm? I am off to the local hardware store to buy new ones and want to make sure I purchase the right ones. I am no mechanic but the pleasure get out of doing these minor repairs is tremendous.
 

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Many reports of broken chain adjustment bolts lately, more if you're near the salty ocean. Oxidation makes the bolt tighter over time as it's not rotated often, and it's exposed to moisture in the swingarm. They're not stainless steel, but they should be. Anti-seize compound should be applied to the threads when it's still new... It helps to retap aluminum bores to clean and sharpen the threads.

M8 x 45mm bolts and nuts available in polished Grade 316 stainless steel, or titanium:

http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-steel-axle-adjuster-m8-x-45mm-set-2-x-bolts-2-x-nuts.html

http://www.probolt-usa.com/vaf/prod...1262&Type=8&Year=1294&category=?&prodtype=513
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Invader for your reply. I certainly do live right by the mighty Alantic ocean everything rusts here. We have a saying. "We don't tan, we rust!" Off I go to purchase stainless steel bolts and anti seize. :thanx:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did I need a new sprocket?

two years on the aluminium sprocket. I think I needed to replace it!! Then new one cost $55.00 for OEM from the dealer. OEM is steel and much much heavier. I am curious to see how long it lasts.
 

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You shouldn't waste aluminum on sprockets you're not racing with.
It should be used for producing more cans of stout.
The steel sprocket will last several times longer than the aluminum (depending on your maintenance habits).
 

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...OEM is steel and much much heavier. I am curious to see how long it lasts.
51,000 miles on my '08s OEM rear sprocket, reversed once at 29,000.

49,000 kms on my '09s OEM rear sprocket, reversed once at 39,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I never thought of reversing the sprocket to extend its life. Never heard anyone mention it before. Thank you for the wonderful tip. I will do it yearly. Something else I learned from this forum.
 

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... so I guess we can reverse the front sprocket as well? (Mine is a 16 tooth aftermarket and does not have the rubber bushings)
 

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The front sprocket has been thru about 3 times the abuse of the rear sprocket.
If I'm going to go thru that much work I'm going to throw in new parts and be done with it.
We all have our own priorities and it's your toy to play with as it pleases you.
 

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... so I guess we can reverse the front sprocket as well? (Mine is a 16 tooth aftermarket and does not have the rubber bushings)
From what I can read on this forum about the removal of the front sprocket and that crazy hard nut, changing it might be a good idea after all the effort it took

Get it close to failure and then buy another one ...


My 2 cent


LOP
 

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I can confirm with how hard that nut was to take off, I didn't have any power tools to remove it. I only had a breaker bar. It slipped and slammed into my leg leaving me with a giant bump on my shin..... maybe I'll just leave it on there now :)
 

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In most cases it takes a breaker bar and a length of pipe to loosen that nut the first time.
I don't understand the reason for the problem..you torque it & have a deformed sheet metal lock washer splined to the shaft. It may just be a sad, cruel joke.
 

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... so I guess we can reverse the front sprocket as well? (Mine is a 16 tooth aftermarket and does not have the rubber bushings)
DON'T reverse the front sprocket! It wears at, roughly, THREE times the rate of the rear sprocket.

On the '08 I changed out the front sprocket at 29,000 miles, and on the '09 at 39,000 kms, BOTH coincidentally w/ reversing the rear, altho' in the spirit of 'openness' - actually the reversing of the REAR was coincidental w/ the REPLACING of the FRONT!

:cool:
 

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In most cases it takes a breaker bar and a length of pipe to loosen that nut the first time.

I don't understand the reason for the problem..you torque it & have a deformed sheet metal lock washer splined to the shaft. It may just be a sad, cruel joke.

We are not the problem. But if you are attempting to undo that front sprocket nut for the first time - you have to undo what the 3 Sumo dudes did when they tightened it at the factory.

I thought I might be lucky and not have a problem like all you northerners with snow and salt and corroded bolts etc. but no I had 4 Sumo dudes tighten mine up.

Note that even the service manual says to put moly grease on the threads. My factory grease was still present so my nut was not rusted on and should have been easy to take off but it was way over tightened at the factory by those 5 Sumo dudes.
 

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On my KLX250 I ended up taking it to the dealer I could not get it undone even with a breaker bar. The Versys I didn't even try.
 

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two years on the aluminium sprocket. I think I needed to replace it!! Then new one cost $55.00 for OEM from the dealer. OEM is steel and much much heavier. I am curious to see how long it lasts.
Dude, that sprocket was WAY past it's best buy date! I'll bet that the chain was spinning around it if you didn't ease off the start line. :eek:
 

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Dude, that sprocket was WAY past it's best buy date! I'll bet that the chain was spinning around it if you didn't ease off the start line. :eek:
Reminds me of my F7 sprocket in jr high...only time my buddies could beat me! :p
 
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