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This mod was done on a 2010 CA edition Versys. It has the evap canister on the left side.

After using the GPS on my V, I no longer wanted to run the Garmin just on its internal batteries. This meant adding power up front. I asked for suggestions and got a few and weighed my options and likes. Thanks to those that offered opinions! This is what I came up with. It took some time and thought because I hate fabbing up brackets or spending lots o money for something that should not cost lots o money. Can't believe Kawasaki is asking >$120 for a socket and relay and bracket. I did the same thing for $20 and it is rock solid.

I wired my setup ALWAYS HOT. 12V always available, directly to the battery. My reasoning is that I don't use the GPS a lot so I will remove the GPS & Ram mount and power cord when not needed. My second reason is I can use this port for my battery tender when I don't ride for a long spell during the winter.

First, let me say THE MOST IMPORTANT THING during this install is an INLINE FUSE as CLOSE to the battery as practical.

Here we go!

First, buy the Socket.https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/217985-versys-parts-suppliers-do-not-copy-paste-other-forums.html oreilly auto Part number 10749. I paid $10.99. It is all weather and sealed up good on the bottom and the spring cap works great with good tension as well as a seal under the cap.



You must remove the left and right side fairings (to lift the tank a little later). I chose the OEM location, but not the OEM hardware due to reasons stated earlier.

It was installed under the left fairing (accessible through the opening around the bars when all back together).

The photo below shows the retaining nut and brass lock washer that came with the 12V socket. They WILL NOT be used. At this point I was trying to figure out how to get the little bugger in there snug.



Discard the retaining nut and lock washer. They will not be used.

You will need to purchase the following hardware (I chose Stainless Steel & Nylon for corrosion prevention, and was available at Lowes):

1- 8-32 X 1 1/2" (1.5") Pan Head Screw
1- #8 Flat Washer
1- 3/8 X .171 X 1/4" Nylon Spacer
1- #8 Locknut (I chose the nylon insert style)



This is the stackup of the hardware.



Now lets have some fun!



Bolt removed.



Slide the flat washer onto the #8 screw and push it through the Socket (between the springs). Then slide the nylon washer onto the screw (under the socket). You will see why as you install.



Crimp or Solder a ring terminal to the short black (negative) wire and place under bolt as shown. Then install the socket using the #8 screw, flat washer, nylon spacer, and lock nut as shown.



2 zip ties around the socket and behind the brackets as shown and this bugger is TIGHT!











I chose to use a piece of black silicone tubing to protect and color my red wire back to the battery.



I had to remove the "can" cover on the left side, and remove the little rubber belt holding the little can (follow the two fuel lines down) and lift the rear of the fuel tank about 1.5". I placed a small 2X4 under the rear to hold it up so I could see to run the wire back. Use zip ties to route the wire back to the battery compartment. Button up the can and cover and mount the fuel tank back.



Use an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible on the + (hot) 12V. I used a ring terminal and cut a notch in the red OEM cover over the positive terminal. I purchased this one from the auto store that had a mounting tab hole on the cover. I placed it under the screw that holds the tool bag down as shown below. I did not use any of the fuses that were on the bike from the factory.





Here is a photo before putting the left fairing back on.



And a couple shots from the top after all back together!







Tested and works great! Very please with my install. If you choose to go this route, good luck. I would be glad to assist anyone nearby (Christiansburg Virginia) as well as offer online support!
 

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Great job, and good pictorial of your work. this is something i still want to do on my 09 in the future.
 

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That's tight!. Well Done. Don't believe I have seen better from a non-high cost prefab piece.

I just installed a bare bones one on my 1600 - and it don't look anywhere near that good - but at least it works. :eek:
 

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dont forget, thanks to the euro's, we have an extra unused connector just to the top right of the radiator. When held up right the bottom two slots are ground and hot when the key is turned. There is a post about it somewhere here.
 

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Very nice! I had placed the 12V port at the same location but without making the effort you did to secure it firmly. Good job!

I used the existing connectors that BAMF mentioned so as not to pull in extra cables to the battery. It does have a Hot cable and one that is managed by the 'ON' or 'P' key switch settings. My siggy will lead you to the post.
 

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"dont forget, thanks to the euro's, we have an extra unused connector just to the top right of the radiator. When held up right the bottom two slots are ground and hot when the key is turned. There is a post about it somewhere here. "


Where is this thread?
 

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Huh?

I don't understand where your final location is--under the tank? You promised a photo of finished access. Why locate it in a hard-to-get-to spot when you could just put it in the black "dashboard" or on the handlebar? A little more enlightenment, please? And the reasoning behind said enlightenment, too...Anyway, great photos, I'm sure I'm just a blockhead...:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I don't understand where your final location is--under the tank? You promised a photo of finished access. Why locate it in a hard-to-get-to spot when you could just put it in the black "dashboard" or on the handlebar? A little more enlightenment, please? And the reasoning behind said enlightenment, too...Anyway, great photos, I'm sure I'm just a blockhead...:confused:
Your not a blockhead. You just are not viewing this through my eyes.

The last 3 photos are the best I could take. The socket is located under the left fairing. I chose this location for a several reasons. Please understand, different folk have different opinions on what they like and works for them.

I explored just drilling a hole in the panel and mounting it there. Due to the large size of the Garmin plug, it would have made contact with the handlebars during a full right turn (while parked). Unacceptable to me.

The handlebar mount would have been easy to plug in and remove but more "stuff" around the bars. I will not be plugging and unplugging my Garmin often and when I do, even though I have to reach down under the fairing from the top, it only takes a few seconds! I would not call it "hard-to-get-to". Harder than up top, yes! Whats a couple more seconds? I won't be plugging in while riding down the road.

I chose the OEM location because it is better protected from the weather as well.

Cosmetically, there was no change in appearance.

When choosing my location down lower than the bars, there is not much space. Sometime sit on the bike and turn the handlebars full left to full right. The forks take up almost every bit of space in there. Believe me I looked.

These are a few reasons I did what I did. I like the result and try to post "how to" threads because I have learned and done many more modifications by walking in others footsteps. Sometimes a project seems just too complicated but when there is plenty of photos and a good parts list, anything is possible for the less mechanically inclined. My little way of thanking others who do the same!

:goodluck: :cheers:
 

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Nice write up Captain:thanx:

I think I can visualize where the plug is but is it difficult for you to access the plug? I am wanting to do the same when I get my bike (hopefully in the next week or so) and I do like the location for all the reasons you stated. But is it easy for you to plug and unplug your GPS in there? It just looks like it would be difficult to slide your hand in that tight space.

I'm not knocking the location at all just wondering if it is easy to access.

Cheers,
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice write up Captain:thanx:

I think I can visualize where the plug is but is it difficult for you to access the plug? I am wanting to do the same when I get my bike (hopefully in the next week or so) and I do like the location for all the reasons you stated. But is it easy for you to plug and unplug your GPS in there? It just looks like it would be difficult to slide your hand in that tight space.

I'm not knocking the location at all just wondering if it is easy to access.

Cheers,
Dan
Dan, I can plug my GPS into the new socket in under 10 seconds. Yes, more difficult to reach than up top (obviously), but not hard to reach. You can turn the handlebars full turn and it opens up a large hole to reach down in there and plug it in. I will say, I must do it by feel because my arm blocks the view, but not hard to access.

Cheers!
 

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Solid job Cap'n. I will be following in your footsteps.

Checked on my 2011 V this morning before I hit the road for work...yes folks it is fairly easy access in my book :thumb:
 

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A very neat install. I just went for the handy route and put mine in the dash. Yes, a bit of lead loops round, but it doesn't foul and is probably 8 seconds quicker to plug in. But I might just put another socket into where the Capn has his tho'. Sometimes, you just can't have enough of a good thing. :D



 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
:thanx:
Has anyone thought about the Versys Stator Output?
What is the OEM stator Output?
While adding accessories, I want to be sure my OEM stator has enough, (Reserve) output.
For my application I am using it just for the Garmin or Battery Tender. A USB port on the computer can only supply 500-900 mA @ 5 volts and charges my Garmin. Therefore, the Garmin cannot be pulling much current.

With high draw devices such as heated clothing, I have no idea how much reserve our bikes charging system can handle. I am sure someone will post soon. :D
 

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eeore, you've got about 325 watts total output. About 100 is used to run the bike, so about 200 watts for accessories.
 

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Thanks for the link!


And to the original poster, thanks for the location of the part. I have an O'Riellys right down the road.
 
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