I checked the manual before posting, not very informative if you don't know anything about it. The most accurate test is what you have already done, and it sounds like you have shorted turns, however it wouldn't hurt to try this again. What you need to realize is this is a 3 phase power source, the white wires need to be identified as white A, white B and white C. , make a drawing of the quick connector and designate on the drawing, and mark the readings down in accordance to your drawing.Measure A to B , B to C and C to A. You should have three readings all very close, like within a couple volts, and as a side note, idle RPM is fine since this is the AC output open circuit voltage, manual says something like 42 volts at 4000 rpm. If one reading is considerably lower then the stator is screwed, you can test this with a ohm meter with the motor off, check the same three and mark down the ohm readings, IMO this is a very inaccurate test. The manual says 0.18 to 0.27 ohms, most test leads of meters are greater than this, only advantage would be to prove that it is open.
:cheers:
This picture is a original equipment stator, if you look closely the outer turns / last turns are near the top of the pole piece.I had the same problem in Colombia, checked everything, then finally pulled the stator, it was obviously burned up. I'd pull it, if that is the problem maybe you could find a shop to rewind it .
I hope you get it sorted out.
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Gary
If you go to Rick's and have a look at the stator posted, that is the very best place for that stator, I would never install that unless I was in Alaska and had no other way home. That is a rewound, by hand stator, several poles have the magnet wire cross over and some of the poles show loose turns. The problem is the magnet wire has a coating of .0015 to .003 of a inch, this is a high frequency alternator, so under load that magnet wire will try to vibrate at the same frequency as the motor RPM.It doesn't take long and all you need is one crossover turn to short and it is downhill from there. Not very many places set up to machine wind a stator like this.If you can get it rewound for $69, I would ask that they give it several extra dips of epoxy varnish, this prevents the magnet wire from vibrating, and if possible use a class h magnet wire, and maybe increase it one size larger.Kawasaki part # 21003-0042. $258.30 from: http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_secti...otorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2010&fveh=37698
Rick's Motorsport Electrics in Hampstead NH USA. Toll Free: 800-521-0277
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/partsearch.php
New Versys stator # 21-227: $140.00
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-227&pmc=MDhLYXdLTEU2NTBWZXJzeXM=
This stator has been wound by hand, the only way I would install that is if I encapsulated the magnet wire, or several dips and bakes using a epoxy varnish .And here's a pic of Rick's Motorsport Electrics $140.00 new Versys stator:
And this guy has a coil winding machine, looks equal to OEM. That is were I would go!:goodluck:Tim Parrott Enterprises in Kellyton Alabama USA rebuilds stators for $69.95.
Toll Free: 800-928-3464 http://www.tpe-usa.com/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/motorcycle-stators-rebuild-service-/180382187937
Well, I ordered the $140 unit from Rick's Electric before I read some of the not-so-favorable words on their products. It comes with a one-year warranty, so I'm good for a year, at least. I will probably send the stock unit (pictured) off to be rewound for $70, just to have a spare.
You took some really good pictures. Did you check from phase "B" -"C" to ground? My concern is that the pole piece is chared more to the connection side and more to the top of the laminations. You could have shorted laminations, if that is the case, the stator is junk. If it blew to ground you would need to re-insulate the pole piece and it is possible to just re-wind that pole by hand ( local electric motor shop should be able to help)----there is also a chance that if the laminations are shorted that the rewind will go the same way, this can be tested by a motor shop that has a small armature growler. :huh:
Not Dumb at all !!!!!!! Only dumb questions are NOT askedSorry for the dumb question.... what is a stator and what does it do?
1. Best to test the rectifier/regulator.
Bad regulator/rectifier could cause the stator to overcharge and burn up.
Refer to service manual page 520.
2. Do a battery load test to check cells are fine.
:goodluck:
The Mechanic said he cant check the regulator / rectifier until the stator is working properly. The guys we bring the bike to are really good, and we are paying for quality work as well.check the regulator first - this might have taken out the windings of the stator?
Hey Potus2012 !!Best to change the R/R at the same time as the stator (did you add any powered farkles?).
The R/R is very exposed on the Versys as well, did you get a hugger to protect it?
You also might want to start looking at lowering the electrical load on her Versys. Good Luck.
The tech said that the stator was burned out, the R/R was also ruined. Exactly how or what happened to the R/R I do not know, but I guess it was not regulating the power flow. The old Battery had a dead cell.Was the original stator definitely burnt, shorted or faulty in any way? Was the R/R determined to be bad? Does steering position have any effect on the cutting out symptom?
