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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to put on some EDC HH brake pads and I've never changed the brakes on a motorcycle. I've done it several times on cars, but no bikes.

Anything I should look out for?

I don't have to remove the wheels correct?

Do I have to bleed the brake fluid?

Any tips are appreciated.

Thank you.
 

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There are some good videos on YouTube. But i had mine put on at a shop i use. The price was fairly cheap and i didn't bust my knuckles or break a sweat...
 

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ZATX,

You shouldn't have any problems.

Just follow the directions in the service manual on page 12-21 (at least in my service manual) and you'll be fine. There is no need to remove the tires.

Those warnings about pumping up the brakes is no joke! When you move the caliper pistons, you must reestablish the hydrolic preassure.

I did notice it took a long time to break in the new brake pads. Probably put 300 miles on before they gripped like the old pads.

Enjoy!

Monte
 

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EBC pads

I just changed mine today, front only. I also lubricated my disk bobbins!
I have tips if you need em.......
 

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Front caliper bolts may be pretty tight and have Loctite on threads. Caliper bolt heads are somewhat soft. Use a good 12mm socket... You can clean the calipers while you're at it. You may as well replace all the brake fluid too, preferably every two years. Just let it flow out bleeder fittings as you keep adding new fluid in the the master reservoir to avoid letting it empty itself.
I also greatly improved front brake lever feel by letting the air out of the crossover hose where it sits above front fender; With the calipers removed, hold the left caliper down below the right one and position the crossover hose to allow air to rise up in its fitting on the right caliper while tapping on it to help disloge air bubbles and channel them up to master reservoir. Reinstall calipers, then replace brake fluid and/or bleed out any air at bleed fittings again.
My front brake lever can't be squeezed nearly as close to the handgrip anymore, and feel is much more responsive... I still love my Vesrah (Japan) RJL HH pads, by the way.

Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid :thumb: http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/77?f[application]=144&f[range]=21
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just changed mine today, front only. I also lubricated my disk bobbins!
I have tips if you need em.......

I don't even know what a disk bobbin is, so yes, any tips are appreciated.


Front caliper bolts may be pretty tight and have Loctite on threads. Caliper bolt heads are somewhat soft. Use a good 12mm socket... You can clean the calipers while you're at it. You may as well replace all the brake fluid too, preferably every two years. Just let it flow out bleeder fittings as you keep adding new fluid in the the master reservoir to avoid letting it empty itself.
I also greatly improved front brake lever feel by letting the air out of the crossover hose where it sits above front fender; With the calipers removed, hold the left caliper down below the right one and position the crossover hose to allow air to rise up in its fitting on the right caliper while tapping on it to help disloge air bubbles and channel them up to master reservoir. Reinstall calipers, then replace brake fluid and/or bleed out any air at bleed fittings again.
My front brake lever can't be squeezed nearly as close to the handgrip anymore, and feel is much more responsive... I still love my Vesrah (Japan) RJL HH pads, by the way.

Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid :thumb: http://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/77?f[application]=144&f[range]=21

Thanks for the tips Invader. My pads are actually the Vesrah ones you linked in another thread, not EDC.

I assume I use aersol Brake Cleaner for all parts involved?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are some good videos on YouTube. But i had mine put on at a shop i use. The price was fairly cheap and i didn't bust my knuckles or break a sweat...

This is the way I was with all of my cars, but there is something about my V. I really love being able to access everything and do the work myself. Some of the projects I have done have been very frustrating (2 hours to change a headlight bulb with the cut up hands to prove it), but once a project is complete I get the personal satisfaction that I did it.

Most of you guys have been riding motorcycles your entire life. This is my first one. In a world that does its best to beat the masculinity out of man it's nice to fight back with a little dirt on my hands and bloody knuckles.
 

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Pad change.

Plenty of good suggestions here, the only thing I would add is this

Turn bars to right to try to level the fluid reservoir and remove the cover. Protect painted parts with rags. With the calipers off, I clean them up with brake cleaner and then gently pump the lever to push the pistons out. When they are out, I took a tooth brush and soaked it with brake fluid and cleaned the outer side of the pistons and worked a thin rag around the tight spots.
I do this from others suggestions a while back.
I did not flush the fluid this last time but I do every two years or less, depending on how the fluid looks. The flush is pretty easy with the V compared to my udder bike.
Enjoy !
Oh, and by the way, my fronts pads looked great with 26000 miles on them.
I lubed the bobbins because I read a thread here on them (like you, I didn't know what they were or if they would cause pulsing.) I wanted to see if the new EBC pads and the bobbin lube would eliminate the pulsing I was getting at slow speeds. Have not ridden it yet to see.
 

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I don't even know what a disk bobbin is, so yes, any tips are appreciated.
They're those round bits that hold the disc to the wheel and allows it to "float". If you look at the rotor, you'll see it's not all one piece. There's the part where your pads grab, and a separate part that bolts on to the wheel. In between are the bobbins. They hold the two pieces together, but can spin freely in between. When they get grime caked down in there, they can seize up and cause squeaking when you brake. Best way to lube these is to get a bolt that will fit through the hole in the bobbin, then nuts and washers on either side to clamp down. Then you can use a wrench to spin the bolt/bobbin and work spray lube down into the joint.

It's time consuming and dirty work, so it helps to have an impact wrench and plenty of shop towels. You want to make absolutely sure you don't get any lube on the brake pads during this, so you'll want to pull the calipers up out of the way and cover them with something. You'll also want to clean the rotors with loads of brake cleaner to get rid of any lube on them. It helps if you blast each bobbin with compressed air first, so anything that would work its way out when the wheel is spinning is gone before your first ride.
 

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You can use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. (Do not use DOT 5 which is silicone based.)
500ml (1/2 quart) is more than twice enough for front and rear brakes.

I think I used a toothbrush, WD-40 and towel to clean calipers.

You don't have to remove front wheel to remove calipers, but you do have to remove front calipers to remove front wheel... Hose retainers on front fender are removed by pinching and pulling them out of fender.
 

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DON'T forget, once everything is back together, to "pump" the affected brakes till you get a 'hard' lever....

BEFORE you go for a ride!!!
 

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It's a piece of cake. No need to change the fluid.

Buy a can of brake cleaner and clean up your calipers. Remove the old pads and pump out the pistons slightly and clean around them with a QTip to remove grime. Push them back in with your fingers. Remove the rubber covers over the brake sliders and clean and lube them. Replace the pads.

When you push out the pistons by squeezing the brake handle again and again the little piston will want to come out and the big piston will not. Push the little one in to force the big one out at the same rate. Pushing the pistons out too far will cause them to come out and you will be forced to change the fluid at this point. If you do remove the pistons be sure to clean them up before reinserting them. Speed bleeders are an easy way to bleed your brakes if this happens. Cover the bleeder with your thumb when releasing the brake lever so they do not suck air in through the bleeder hole.

Heat softens up locktite and makes bolts easier to remove.
 

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Brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years or at every 15,000 miles, whichever comes first... It's also worth allowing the air out of the crossover hose on fender while the calipers are removed, a piece of cake as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep.. I'm replacing the fluids. I've ordered the one that Invader linked as my 2011 has never had the fluid changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well thanks for the tips guys. Changed out my brake pads and fluid. Was a remarkably simple project. If I hadn't bled the fluid, and just changed the pads, it might have taken all of 10 minutes.

Braking felt much smoother and responsive, but I imagine it will take a couple of hundred miles to break them in.
 

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Just replaced my front brake pads. Followed some instructional videos at youtube. In bleeding the system you can do it manually or have brake bleeder kit. It will make your work fast and more efficient. Just a tip make sure to clean the assembly before reassembling the brakes. Brake cleaner comes very handy in cleaning.
 
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