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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Weird problem this morning.

On depressing the rear brake pedal, rear brake light does not come on. Riding lights are on with ignition on.
Horn does not work.

Both issues are simultaneous.

On holding the front brake lever, rear lights light up. So not a fault with the LED's.
Checked the 10A fuse, it looked good. Switched it with a spare, no dice.
Maybe the spare is ****e too, switched it with the meter console fuse, still no juice.

I havent pulled out the main 30 AMP fuse, but I doubt there's a problem there.

I also doubt there's a problem with the fuse-box itself, because the brake lights work with the front lever depressed.

Bike's been standing for 5 days. Everything worked 5 days prior.

How do I check what;s wrong? I am in the middle of a trip and about 500 miles away from home. I am just worried if this could be a symptom of a bigger issue?



All other electrical stuff works - indicators, hi and low beams etc. Started the bike multiple times, and there wasn't any lag to start.
 

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Possibly both issues happened simultaneous but are not connected to each other. I would check the horn connections and the rear brake actuator switch and associated connections. Sounds like you ruled out fuses already.
 

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Your horn button is just a simple contact switch, (so is the flash to pass).
Undo the 2 screws at the front of the switch housing and gently pull the housing apart.
Have a look at the switch, you might need to freshen up the contact spots with some emry paper (I used a cardboard nail file) just a few wipes on the contact points and test the switch to see if it works.

My Flash to pass was not working and this is how I got it to work, as I needed it to pass inspection.

Now your rear brake light switch might be the problem.
Check electrical plug for corrosion and also proper adjustment to activate.
If you can hear the switch clicking on and off when moving the brake lever and light is still not working, then trace wires back and check for a pinched cable on the frame.
If you have a multimeter you can also check the operation of the switch. use continuity or ohm to test if the switch open and closes electrical contacts when clicking on and off.
If mutimeter test fails, then try shorting (or grounding) out the connector to see if the rear lights actually do work. then it will be a faulty rear brake switch. Sorry I do not know off hand the operation of the switch...if it grounds when active. See electrical schematics or someone else will pipe up with the answer like Invader. Generally if the switch only has one wire, then it will be ground triggered.
 

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Fuse #4/ 10 amp

The drawing shows horn and brake light on a 10 amp fuse, try your front brake switch. My money is on the fuse, now one concern, what year is your bike and have you had the gas tank off?
This circuit is a bit unusual,the horn has positive connected directly to the horn from fuse #4, the horn button is the ground. The brake light switches both switch positive from fuse #4. So I would trace the wire brown yellow from the horn, this wire also has a tap off of it for the front brake switch and the rear brake switch. It has happened on MK-1 and #2 where the harness had a high spot near the front rubber mounting of the gas tank, wore through the insulation and 1 or more wires were exposed.FYI the fuse block distribution for #4 keyed positive , so keying off disconnects the power to all those fuse circuits. So I am 100% on the fuse #4 being blown.
 
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