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Discussion Starter #1
2009 Versys 650, Highbeam, lowbeam, and highbeam dash indicator all went out simultaneously.

Anyone have an idea on what this may be? I'm otherwise just going to start at the headlights and work all the way back to the batteries and check everything until I can find what it is or run through everything I know to and have to give all my monies to the shop.
 

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I am not the mechanical guy here, but wouldn't it pay to check the bulbs first? I know it is highly unlikely that both would go out at same time (if they did) AND I don't know if the dash indicator goes out if the bulb goes out. Just saying, start with the simplest of things first. OK, I guess that might be the fuse, so start there, then bulbs?
 

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check the fuse first (under the seat)
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I myself would start at the battery and work forward from there
I'll do that then.

I am not the mechanical guy here, but wouldn't it pay to check the bulbs first? I know it is highly unlikely that both would go out at same time (if they did) AND I don't know if the dash indicator goes out if the bulb goes out. Just saying, start with the simplest of things first. OK, I guess that might be the fuse, so start there, then bulbs?
check the fuse first (under the seat)
Checked all the fuses, and bulbs went ahead and got replaced even though the current ones were still good, so they didn't burn out (but the new ones will have much better light output once it's working again).
 

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I'll do that then.





Checked all the fuses, and bulbs went ahead and got replaced even though the current ones were still good, so they didn't burn out (but the new ones will have much better light output once it's working again).
did you test or change the fuses or just visibly inspect them?
if not fuse next thing id check is the relay , a multi meter is a valuable tool to have.,.. even a chap one is better then none (you can make one from a dc light and some wire)
 

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Headlight Not Working

OK I have gone through this with another member. Be certain the 10 amp fuse is good. The next test is fairly simple, you need to open the connector from the stator , in the second detailed thread I show testing the stator with voltmeters, you need to use the connector end going into the wiring harness. What you do is have a small wire connected to the positive terminal of your battery, have the plug apart going from the stator, turn the key switch to run, do not start the motor, touch all three spade terminals, 1 at a time, you should hear a clicking noise on 1 of them, pay close attention, if in doubt key off then on again, try touching one at a time, pay attention to which terminal produced the clicking, it will happen only once per key on. Check if the headlight came on and post this.If you hear a clicking on one terminal and repeated touching of that terminal produces a clicking noise, even though you haven't keyed off, you have a blown 10 amp headlight fuse
If nothing happened you will need to remove the gas tank, and need a meter that reads volts DC to 14 VDC, the center plug of the relay box has a grey wire pin #3, with the key on, you should have 12 VDC, again you should have been able to determine this without taking the gas tank off. If you have reached this point of testing chances are your headlight relay is toast, the bottom post is how to install a after market relay/ socket, for less than $10 that is easily changed out at anytime in the future.

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/212897-2007-versys-650-headlights-problem.html
This thread has more detail
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/215754-relay-box-headlight-relay-failure-2007-cluster-testing-cheap-fix-china-relay.html


:feedback:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
did you test or change the fuses or just visibly inspect them?
if not fuse next thing id check is the relay , a multi meter is a valuable tool to have.,.. even a chap one is better then none (you can make one from a dc light and some wire)
Actually pulled them and tested the connection points with a multimeter on DC voltage. Also tried using the spare fuses and switching fuses from working components to no effect.

OK I have gone through this with another member. Be certain the 10 amp fuse is good. The next test is fairly simple, you need to open the connector from the stator , in the second detailed thread I show testing the stator with voltmeters, you need to use the connector end going into the wiring harness. What you do is have a small wire connected to the positive terminal of your battery, have the plug apart going from the stator, turn the key switch to run, do not start the motor, touch all three spade terminals, 1 at a time, you should hear a clicking noise on 1 of them, pay close attention, if in doubt key off then on again, try touching one at a time, pay attention to which terminal produced the clicking, it will happen only once per key on. Check if the headlight came on and post this.If you hear a clicking on one terminal and repeated touching of that terminal produces a clicking noise, even though you haven't keyed off, you have a blown 10 amp headlight fuse
If nothing happened you will need to remove the gas tank, and need a meter that reads volts DC to 14 VDC, the center plug of the relay box has a grey wire pin #3, with the key on, you should have 12 VDC, again you should have been able to determine this without taking the gas tank off. If you have reached this point of testing chances are your headlight relay is toast, the bottom post is how to install a after market relay/ socket, for less than $10 that is easily changed out at anytime in the future.

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/212897-2007-versys-650-headlights-problem.html
This thread has more detail
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/215754-relay-box-headlight-relay-failure-2007-cluster-testing-cheap-fix-china-relay.html


:feedback:
Hm, I'm exceptionally limited on my knowledge and capabilities of electrical work, but I may see what I can do with this. I found a used wiring harness for pretty cheap and I was just planning to replace the entire thing.

But if I can just replace the relay box for $13, then I'll return the $75 harness.
 

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Replacing Headlight relay

Actually pulled them and tested the connection points with a multimeter on DC voltage. Also tried using the spare fuses and switching fuses from working components to no effect.



Hm, I'm exceptionally limited on my knowledge and capabilities of electrical work, but I may see what I can do with this. I found a used wiring harness for pretty cheap and I was just planning to replace the entire thing.

But if I can just replace the relay box for $13, then I'll return the $75 harness.
Well you didn't mention what happened/ or if you tested the relay using the plug from the stator and applying 12 VDC as I described previuosly, this test is primarily in case your stator is going, I would assume by now that if that was the case your bike wouldn't be running anymore. So the link I provided is the procedure. Here is a example , complete with socket, notice it say SPDT and has 5 wires, yes that is the price complete . Search 12 volt 40 amp
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12Volt-30-40-Amp-SPDT-Automotive-Relay-with-Wires-Harness-Socket-NEW/382480854272?epid=780469474&hash=item590da2ad00:g:t6kAAOSwa~BYN-lm Be aware these can be purchased from Princess Auto in Canada . You can find them in the US on ebay for about $22 for 5, be aware that many sellers ship from China, expect to take up to 5 weeks for that $3 relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well you didn't mention what happened/ or if you tested the relay using the plug from the stator and applying 12 VDC as I described previuosly, this test is primarily in case your stator is going, I would assume by now that if that was the case your bike wouldn't be running anymore. So the link I provided is the procedure. Here is a example , complete with socket, notice it say SPDT and has 5 wires, yes that is the price complete . Search 12 volt 40 amp
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12Volt-30-40-Amp-SPDT-Automotive-Relay-with-Wires-Harness-Socket-NEW/382480854272?epid=780469474&hash=item590da2ad00:g:t6kAAOSwa~BYN-lm Be aware these can be purchased from Princess Auto in Canada . You can find them in the US on ebay for about $22 for 5, be aware that many sellers ship from China, expect to take up to 5 weeks for that $3 relay.
Unfortunately I didn't get the email that there'd been a response here before ordering. :(

So far all that's happened is that the headlights and high-beam dash indicator have gone out, all at the same time. It's been about a week now, and there has been 0 change in any other part of the bike. DRL's, blinkers, brake lights, the rest of the dash - all works.

I really have less than a 5 year old's understanding of electronics, and I'm a bit ashamed to say that the link lost me real quick. I'm comfortable tearing an engine down to the ground and putting it back together, but if I have to start messing with wires, I'm at a complete loss. I'll see if I can't figure out and follow the guides you gave, otherwise I'll probably try plugging in a new relay, and if that doesn't work I'll just work front to bag plugging in the new harness. I can do plugs, plugs are simple enough. :p
 

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Electrical 101/ Anybody

Unfortunately I didn't get the email that there'd been a response here before ordering. :(

So far all that's happened is that the headlights and high-beam dash indicator have gone out, all at the same time. It's been about a week now, and there has been 0 change in any other part of the bike. DRL's, blinkers, brake lights, the rest of the dash - all works.

I really have less than a 5 year old's understanding of electronics, and I'm a bit ashamed to say that the link lost me real quick. I'm comfortable tearing an engine down to the ground and putting it back together, but if I have to start messing with wires, I'm at a complete loss. I'll see if I can't figure out and follow the guides you gave, otherwise I'll probably try plugging in a new relay, and if that doesn't work I'll just work front to bag plugging in the new harness. I can do plugs, plugs are simple enough. :p
If you are more comfortable I can work through PM, that link where Verspkd posted, and not trying to embarrass anyone ( 100 total PM, sometimes if spread over time, I have extreme patience , but not always), that was a challenge for me due to the fact that the previous owner modified the wiring harness which was part of the problem, once this came to light, and it was the present owner following my instructions and discovering wires cut off and taped up at the headlight end of the harness.

Once that was corrected it was much easier, although I made a mistake assuming the electrical drawing and wiring harness were identical for the headlight relay ( headlight relay socket has 6 wires , drawing showing headlight relay shows six wires, the wiring harness uses only 3 of the electrical drawing headlight relay socket wires.) I now have a way of replacing just the headlight relay with a after market relay as posted earlier. You might be better off just replacing the relay box, however this is a common problem with the headlight relay failing, so a very expensive situation replacing the complete relay box.

Some have purchased used and it worked, however you need to question why someone is selling a good used relay box?? As to the harness, I would never replace that unless the bike was involved in a crash or mice went at the harness or some other destruction occurred. If you are interested I could try and modify the How To thread and add detail where needed to help you, first I need to know what you don't understand, also you need to be able to solder, you could get away with posi-taps although I am reluctant to use them in this application.

:feedback:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You might be better off just replacing the relay box, however this is a common problem with the headlight relay failing, so a very expensive situation replacing the complete relay box.
This makes me feel like I'm missing something - I picked up a relay box for $13...

Some have purchased used and it worked, however you need to question why someone is selling a good used relay box??
Off ebay from a wrecked bike, which looked to be what the account mainly did.

As to the harness, I would never replace that unless the bike was involved in a crash or mice went at the harness or some other destruction occurred.
What's the concern with replacing the harness? It seems like a rather easy fix.

first I need to know what you don't understand, also you need to be able to solder
Everything, and though I don't have that capability, I'm pretty sure I know at least one person who could.
 

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Relay Box

This makes me feel like I'm missing something - I picked up a relay box for $13...



Off ebay from a wrecked bike, which looked to be what the account mainly did.



What's the concern with replacing the harness? It seems like a rather easy fix.



Everything, and though I don't have that capability, I'm pretty sure I know at least one person who could.
If you have a relay box for $13 , please plug it in, you got a deal, end of story, there are some honest sellers out there, only way to find out is do it. Keep us posted, as to the harness I will let you decide on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you have a relay box for $13 , please plug it in, you got a deal, end of story, there are some honest sellers out there, only way to find out is do it. Keep us posted, as to the harness I will let you decide on that.
Welp, I tried both relays with both harnesses, it's now got the entire "new" harness and relay box in it.

And there's no change. :frown2:

So really all I've lost is time, because nothing else got messed up, but neither has anything gotten fixed. But that should eliminate quite a bit of stuff to check for the mechanic.
 

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Parts Changer / Trouble Shooting 101

Welp, I tried both relays with both harnesses, it's now got the entire "new" harness and relay box in it.

And there's no change. :frown2:

So really all I've lost is time, because nothing else got messed up, but neither has anything gotten fixed. But that should eliminate quite a bit of stuff to check for the mechanic.
I offered, some really simple tests, so replaced harness, changed relays, still a problem hey, :surprise: , I spent over 40 years doing extensive electrical trouble shooting, nothing worse than coming on site where the in plant expert already tried stuff, never knowing if the part I was sticking in had already been stuck in by the in plant expert. Trust me that is a very expensive way of fixing things. Over the years I have developed test methods that are not destructive, every once in a while that failed, I can say less than 10 times in my lifetime . Pushing the reset button on a 600 KW inverter could easily cost $4500 to $10,000in less than 3 seconds.

Let me know when you want to solve this, you do need a meter that reads both DC and AC volts, these days under $100, make sure it is digital.
 

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Brief Explanation Please

I am having the same problem. Did you find a solution? Thanks for Amy info.
As you can see, no activity since about 2 weeks ago, I assume he went to a mechanic to get it fixed. I would suggest giving as much detail here in this thread, I can move the thread later, read some of my test questions and try and answer those in your post. Very little electrical I can't solve, if given the correct info.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am having the same problem. Did you find a solution? Thanks for Amy info.
As you can see, no activity since about 2 weeks ago, I assume he went to a mechanic to get it fixed. I would suggest giving as much detail here in this thread, I can move the thread later, read some of my test questions and try and answer those in your post. Very little electrical I can't solve, if given the correct info.

Sorry for the wait, I'm not on this forum terribly often and it forgets to notify me even though it's sent for instant email.


Ended up taking it to a shop, and yup, stator's out, so that's on order rn.

Onewizard is entirely correct - just go ahead and pay attention to what he's saying, so long as you have at least a 5 year old's comprehension of electronics and are comfortable screwing around with them. :goodluck:
 

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...just go ahead and pay attention to what he's saying, so long as you have at least a 5 year old's comprehension of electronics...
I AGREE! That's WHY I have those little plastic "child-guards" in ALL of the electrical plugs in our house. OTHERWISE you could be walking around at night, bare-footed, and step into a POOL of electricity, which would NOT be fun!

:badidea:

;)
 
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