[Kris]

it does helps with reducing popping, because it enriches the air/fuel mixture. however, in my opinion, taking the O2 sensor out, helps as well, because the bike in not switching back and forth between the open to close loop. Booster plug does not work in the closed loop, only in the open loop. Theoretically, upon deceleration, the ECU enters the open loop, but that transition is not always smooth and can be jarring. blocking the Pair Valve also helps with popping because the air is not injected into the exhaust.

 

[veltins]

Talking about the booster plug? It says all over their site it helps reduce popping.
No, the PAIR delete.

 

[veltins]

I misread what the product description was stating (the PAIR situation CAUSES the popping with aftermarket exhaust and the delete fixes this). My bad.

 

[Crimson Apple]

Anyone tested different locations for best results. Currently have mine fitted under the seat next to the ECU.

 

[Kris]

both BP and Pair delete help reducing popping. some of the popping is caused by Pair Valve injecting fresh air into the exhaust. But the 300x is not really popping. At least not with Akra slip on that I run without DB killer.

 

[veltins]

Wasn't there someone on the forum that used BP, O2 delete and PAIR delete? Just wondering if that worked out at all. between the BP and O2 which is best being both do similar things?

 

[GoFaster]

A properly made O2 delete has a similar effect as the booster plug. Basically adds a bit of fuel across the board. Booster plug just spoofs the IAT to thinking it's 10deg cooler than it actually is, that way the ECU adds a bit of fuel. Problem is the stock O2 get's a sniff of this and doesn't realize you're doing it on purpose, so it tattles to the ECU which now thinks there's an issue and tries to cancel it out.

I'm sure the immediate benefit of a booster plug is noticeable. But the gradual change back to normal as the ECU figures it out might be hard to feel.

The only real way to deal with popping is the PAIR delete. Some options can mitigate the effect but it's the PAIR valve that lets in clean air during a fuel cut (0% throttle) so any unburnt fuel get's ignited by the exhaust. Only reasons to remove it are if the popping bothers you, or if you are tuning with an Autotune module.

 

[Kris]

Removing O2 sensor adds more fuel only in the closed loop, like when you ride on constant speed and in other situations. It does not add more fuel, when you accelerate for instance. I agree about the PAIR delete, as I do it with all my bikes. But while it reduces popping, it not always eliminates it. With my previous Vulcan S, I could not get rid of the popping, no matter what I did. With my present KLX230, it is also keeps popping very loud, which I don't mind as it is an off road bike.

Now, the important matter, will keeping the O2 sensor cause the ECU to eventually recognise that it is being cheated by BP and adjust the map accordingly? The creator of BP, Jens, strongly denies this, but I saw some BMW forums where many claimed that this is the case. I cannot say for sure, but I take the O2 sensor out anyway from all my bikes.

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?86931-Booster-Plug-Owner-Input

I like to simplify the bike as much as I can, and getting rid of all unnecessary hoses, plugs, etc. From 300x i removed O2 sensor, Pair Valve, EVAP canister. SmartMoto Electronics has all the parts you need to eliminate all that stuff. But the Pair Valve can being delated for free. You just epoxy all the holes and throw all the hoses to trash, but you would need to keep the solenoid if not having the proper resistor, or else you can an error code. Same goes with EVAP canister.

As far popping is concerned, as I already mentioned before, I never had any popping with Akra slip on and db killer removed. I just cannot remember if when I installed the slip-on, I had already BP installed and O2 sensor removed plus Pair Valve blocked, or I did these modifications after.

 

[GoFaster]

Removing O2 sensor adds more fuel only in the closed loop, like when you ride on constant speed and in other situations. It does not add more fuel, when you accelerate for instance. I agree about the PAIR delete, as I do it with all my bikes. But while it reduces popping, it not always eliminates it. With my previous Vulcan S, I could not get rid of the popping, no matter what I did. With my present KLX230, it is also keeps popping very loud, which I don't mind as it is an off road bike.

Now, the important matter, will keeping the O2 sensor cause the ECU to eventually recognise that it is being cheated by BP and adjust the map accordingly? The creator of BP, Jens, strongly denies this, but I saw some BMW forums where many claimed that this is the case. I cannot say for sure, but I take the O2 sensor out anyway from all my bikes.

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?86931-Booster-Plug-Owner-Input

I like to simplify the bike as much as I can, and getting rid of all unnecessary hoses, plugs, etc. From 300x i removed O2 sensor, Pair Valve, EVAP canister. SmartMoto Electronics has all the parts you need to eliminate all that stuff. But the Pair Valve can being delated for free. You just epoxy all the holes and throw all the hoses to trash, but you would need to keep the solenoid if not having the proper resistor, or else you can an error code. Same goes with EVAP canister.

As far popping is concerned, as I already mentioned before, I never had any popping with Akra slip on and db killer removed. I just cannot remember if when I installed the slip-on, I had already BP installed and O2 sensor removed plus Pair Valve blocked, or I did these modifications after.

Yes, PAIR delete does not always eliminate popping. Agreed.

Of course the creator of BP strongly denies this. Otherwise he would be out of business.

I've had good luck with the SmartMoto guys in the past. But KawasakiBrad in Canada's stuff is a bit nicer, and less $$, and gets here a lot faster than things from overseas. Too bad he only does Kawi parts though.

Last but not least, proper resistor is 22-24ohm 10w for the pair valve. Also yes, plug those holes.

Wow, that's enough agreement for one day. I'm going to start an argument on facebook now.

 

[Kris]

Yes, PAIR delete does not always eliminate popping. Agreed.

Of course the creator of BP strongly denies this. Otherwise he would be out of business.

I've had good luck with the SmartMoto guys in the past. But KawasakiBrad in Canada's stuff is a bit nicer, and less $$, and gets here a lot faster than things from overseas. Too bad he only does Kawi parts though.

Last but not least, proper resistor is 22-24ohm 10w for the pair valve. Also yes, plug those holes.

Wow, that's enough agreement for one day. I'm going to start an argument on facebook now.

I think that the booster plug creator really believes in what he is saying or else he would suggest O2 sensor removal. I always remove O2 sensor, so I cannot say if the bike first runs better and then after the ECU gets to know that it has been outsmarted returns to what it was before. I have no idea why people keep the lambada sensor. the increase in fuel economy is negligible; in fact, I did not notice any difference.

 

[KawasakiBrad]

I always remove O2 sensor, so I cannot say if the bike first runs better and then after the ECU gets to know that it has been outsmarted returns to what it was before. I have no idea why people keep the lambada sensor. the increase in fuel economy is negligible; in fact, I did not notice any difference.

+1 on that. I've done a LOT of testing on this on real world daily drivers and the dyno across multiple Kawasaki's (perks of working at a Kawi dealership back in the day). Could sometimes get a variation of 1-2 percent consumption with O2 sensor vs O2 eliminator but that could very well be the margin of error.

In other words, the change in consumption is nearly immeasurable. The power to use more or less fuel is in the riders hands (well, your right hand anyways) .

 

[veltins]

Is it possible to do the PAIR delete without completely removing the tank? Seems not, but figured I'd ask.
Or at least get to the sensor to replace that......
Thanks

 

[Kris]

you need to take the tank off. very tiny space there. in 650 it is possible.

 

[KawasakiBrad]

Is it possible to do the PAIR delete without completely removing the tank? Seems not, but figured I'd ask.
Or at least get to the sensor to replace that......
Thanks

What bike are we talking about? Some yes, most no. All are easier with the tank off.

PS: it's not that big of a deal to get your tank off. PPL just make it out to be scary on forums for some reason.

 

[Kris]

since it is 300 forum, yes, you must take the tank out. did I already mentioned this?

 

[KawasakiBrad]

since it is 300 forum, yes, you must take the tank out. did I already mentioned this?

Oops. Didn't notice it was on the 300 subforum. 🤦‍♂️

 

[Kris]

Oops. Didn't notice it was on the 300 subforum. 🤦‍♂️

in 650, it is possible to reach there without taking the tank off.

 

[veltins]

I was just contemplating doing the job and was hoping I could squeeze my hands under the tank. More important to go riding than to spend the time removing the tank at this point.

 

[Dr. Sloth]

Ok, new to motorcycling and new to these forums... I bought the Versys X 300 as my first motorcycle last year and I've been happy with it. Mine came with Ricochet skid plates, and Kawasaki original crash bars and only 800 miles on the odometer. I generally enjoy it, and have been making progress and riding it more and more. One thing that bothered me is that the throttle didn't seem to be very smooth. I chalked it up as me being a new rider, I still didn't have the finesse to work the clutch and throttle smoothly. Then I saw the Booster Plug posts in the forums, and it was stated that it makes throttle action smoother overall, and I decided to give it a try. I installed it yesterday and went for a ride immediately after. I could definitely tell that maneuvering at slow speeds became a smoother process, with reduced jerkiness when modulating the throttle and clutch for tight turns. It also appeared that gear transitions were smoother on the roads.
That said, these results are subtle, and in my experience the claims that you will get a "new bike" by installing this are obvious hyperbolic, but you will get a little gentler response when working the throttle, especially at lower speeds. I still think that it was worth it, but temper your expectations on what you want to achieve with the Booster Plug.
Regarding the installationI didn't have to remove my tank to install it, and I only propped it with a box to fit my hands underneath and install it, as mentioned in the posts above. I even placed mine in a similar spot as shown in the pictures but on the opposite side because it was easier to route it through. Getting your hands in there can be a little tricky in order to tighten the zip ties, but if you are not doing this in a rush, you should be fine. It took me about 30 minutes from start to finish as I am not an experienced mechanic. Just my $0.02.

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

WELCOME aboard Dr Sloth!