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Discussion Starter #1
Last week on my way to work, my bike was running great. I stopped for breakfast, and then it wouldn't start. I had not been watching my voltage gauge while riding, but When it wouldn't start I noticed it read 11.5volts.

I was able to get it jumped by a coworker and rode to work no problem, but the gauge never got above 10.7volts. At the end of the day I couldn't get the big jumper cables at work to get on the battery terminals, so i had to call someone with a trailer to come pick me up.

At home I put the bike on my charger and it was entirely charged the next morning. I unplugged the bike and it held a charge for 3 days.

Today I started it no problem. I left it idling in the driveway for about a hour as I washed my truck. The bike was a 12.7 when I started, and a hour later was 10.4-10.7. I took a spin around the neighborhood and it got up to 11.0volts. It had great performance while riding. It would not restart after I shut it down.

So what part of the charging system is causing this?
 

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You might just want to consider replacing the battery if it's original. Because it runs well when when it's running, I'd say the battery is maybe just losing the ability to hold a charge effectively.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I put a new battery in the bike last Spring(left the grips on a few to many times). Now I have any electronics(gps, grips) on a switched fuzeblock. I have a new battery in the garage, but the one in the bike, charged up perfect, and held the charge exactly for several days once off the charger.
 

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Stator, regulator, or battery.

If you are not getting 13+ volts with the bike running you have a charging problem. As said check all your connections between stator and battery first but it sounds like you might be another stator victim.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Based on some reading I have done on here, it seems that stators going out is not rare.:mad:

I read where the stator was and saw a picture of a "burned" one. I opened up the side of the engine:eek: and found the stator.

Here is a pic of it. I am pretty sure it is bad and needs to be replaced.



So, how hard is it to swap this out? looks like just the 3 allen screws, and unplugging the wire clip. But how does the clip get through the side of the engine casing?
 

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How many miles are you at?

Stator Coil Removal
•Remove:
Alternator Cover (see Alternator Cover Removal)
Holding Plate Bolt [A] and Plate
Alternator Lead Grommet
Stator Coil Bolts [C]
•Remove the stator coil [D] from the alternator cover.

Stator Coil Installation
•Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of
the stator coil bolts and tighten them.
Torque - Stator Coil Bolts: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)
•Secure the alternator lead with a holding plate, and
tighten the bolt.
○Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of
the holding plate bolt.
Torque - Alternator Lead Holding Plate Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•Apply silicone sealant to the circumference of the alternator
lead grommet, and fit the grommet into the notch of the cover securely.
•Install the alternator cover (see Alternator Cover Installation).

Alternator Cover Installation
•Apply silicone sealant to the alternator lead grommet and
crankcase halves mating surface [A] on the front and rear
sides of the cover mount.
•Check that dowel pins are in place on the crankcase.
•Install a new gasket and the alternator cover.
•Tighten:
Torque - Alternator Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
 

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I bought mine from ebay (cantoncyclecenter) for 134.95 w/free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KLE650-KLE-650-Versys-Stator-RICKS-NEW-/290646924507?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43abe81cdb&vxp=mtr#ht_781wt_696

This is a standard Rick's replacement stator. Mine has been working fine for a few months now.

Alternative source:

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2008-2009-Kawasaki-KLE650-KLE-650-Versys-Stator

You will want to get a new gasket for the cover also.

You've already done the hard part!

Hope that helps.

Michael
 

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Hikewithmike got a Rick's stator (21-227) for $118.91 from (scroll down to 3/4 of the page):
http://www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsport_electric-_new_arrivals___misc_.htm
Have you considered upgrading your stock shunt type regulator/rectifier to a Compu-Fire series type R/R to reduce stator load and heat? Generator output is always maxed out with shunt type R/R by shunting any unused electrical power to ground.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16774
 

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While searching for the Series Type R/R, came across this guy who make it himself. Price is decent. But I am not sure if it is applicable to the V. Apologies if this site was posted earlier.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html

"The VRRPM series rectifier / voltage regulators for bikes with a permanent magnet
alternator are made for us by another manufacturer to our specs. While these units are
very well made and designed to our philosophy, we cannot cover them with the lifetime
warranty. All of the VRRPM series units will carry a no BS 2 year replacement warranty."
 

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Follow the steps in the service manual (copied by invader above) and you should have no trouble with this repair. Remember to lock-tite the mounting bolts. New gasket is important because there is a special glaze on it that seals only once (heat activated?). There are a lot of bolts in that engine cover and I was worried about losing track of where each went (three different lengths), but there's really only one way to reassemble, so not a concern. It helped me to remember that there is no pressure behind this cover (same as the valve cover) and that all I was trying to achieve was an oil proof seal. No drips so far. The only place you need silicone is where the lead exits the cover, around the rubber grommet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How is this stator?
Ron Ayers
I can get the stator and gasket from the same place,
 

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Personally, as long as it fit the Versys and was a new unit (not rewound), I would go for the least expensive one I could find. I went aftermarket with the stator I bought and it's working well. That's just me though, you'll hear every opinion under the sun on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I bought the Ron Ayers one with the gasket, as it as easier. Price of the staor+gasket+shipping was still cheaper than "Ricks" on ebay.
 

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While searching for the Series Type R/R, came across this guy who make it himself. Price is decent. But I am not sure if it is applicable to the V. Apologies if this site was posted earlier.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html

"The VRRPM series rectifier / voltage regulators for bikes with a permanent magnet
alternator are made for us by another manufacturer to our specs. While these units are
very well made and designed to our philosophy, we cannot cover them with the lifetime
warranty. All of the VRRPM series units will carry a no BS 2 year replacement warranty."
Those are not series type R/R's... I already confirmed it.

"VRRPM series" stands for "Voltage Regulator Rectifier for Permanent Magnet generator series". They purposely named it that way in an attempt to fool customers into buying their shunt type R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I finaly have the bike back up and running.

I had ordered the stator and gasket from Ron Ayers back on the 26th of March. Turns out they dont really stock much parts and had to go order for themselves before sending them to me. They sent a email last week saying that they had shipped the gasket and stator, but when it arrived there was no stator...:mad:

When i called them they said it was on backorder. So I called up Ricks and they did not have one in stock, but would make it and send it out. 3 days later it came in and it is in the bike.

Before the bike would idle around 12.0-.5, but now is idling at 14.4 volts.

Thanks for answering my questions.
 
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