Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone help me on this?
I was out for a blast last week, when suddenly the versys started to miss, and then miss and backfire and yuck that much I could only get up to 20mph. I managed to coxe the bike home by getting into a higher gear and keeping the throttle steady, but still yucking.
Replaced the plugs others didn't seem bad as I had only done 7000mile on them. but one did look like it may have been missing out on the fun. After I put the new set of iridium plugs in. And bike went fine until about 15 mins and 8 mile into the journey, then the same trouble.
Bike starts fine and ticks over is ok except for a few missing beats, revs fine, I noticed one of the exhaust pipes looks a different colour though. I`m now thinking coils, but shouldn't the DFI light of told me more?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
I wish I could help you out more. You've already mentioned the things I would consider. The bike won't always "throw a code". I had a throttle position sensor go out that took a long time of acting up before it was bad enough that it would throw a code.

What year is your bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I wish I could help you out more. You've already mentioned the things I would consider. The bike won't always "throw a code". I had a throttle position sensor go out that took a long time of acting up before it was bad enough that it would throw a code.

What year is your bike?
Bikes a 2007. I had an idea that it may have been my exhaust. Were it joins the box, Only that I had this crack ( common fault) on me a couple of years back, and the bike just lost all its power. But on recollection it didn't yuck and surge.
Ive just orderd a couple of 2nd hand injectors of ebay ( they was going cheap)
in case its one of them playing up.I put new coil sticks in 8000mile ago, because I had to chew them up getting them out to replace the plugs. Have done an holms test and its fine.I could always take it to the garage but its all good skills trying to fix it yourself. will keep you posted thanks Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I wish I could help you out more. You've already mentioned the things I would consider. The bike won't always "throw a code". I had a throttle position sensor go out that took a long time of acting up before it was bad enough that it would throw a code.

What year is your bike?
Bikes a 2007. I had an idea that it may have been my exhaust. Were it joins the box, Only that I had this crack ( common fault) on me a couple of years back, and the bike just lost all its power. But on recollection it didn't yuck and surge.
Ive just orderd a couple of 2nd hand injectors of ebay ( they was going cheap)
in case its one of them playing up.I put new coil sticks in 8000mile ago, because I had to chew them up getting them out to replace the plugs. Have done an holms test and its fine.I could always take it to the garage but its all good skills trying to fix it yourself. will keep you posted thanks Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
It could just be a dirty injector. I know back when I was on the sportster forum, someone had that same issue and it turned out to be like surface rust on one of the injectors. He pulled it, cleaned it up, and it ran fine after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well Ive got some second hand injectors a bit reluctant to put them in yet. but check the holms reading on both sets and they all have the same ok reading. Fitted a new air filter and put the bike back together, ( a case of illumination ) struck bike up, perfect, went for a spin, 60 70 80mph. great nice and smooth. went the same distance as the other day about 5 mile and sure as clock work it started to surge until it was as bad as the first time. manage to nurse it home. Now the exhaust does sound like it may be blowing, from the joint into the box. Which is were I had a tube weld fix a few years back. I`m wondering is the lamber ( oxegen ) sensor detecting an gas pressure leak
and altering the mix as it should do? just as the Temperature gets to a certain level?
I was going to change the front pipes to stainless so I have them on order now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Its either fuel, air, or electrical. Not air, probably not electrical unless your coils arent getting the right and stable input. Weak batteries and loose grounds do very weird things that make it appear like something else. Check your power and all grounds. If you havent replaced your battery in the last 5 years, you should do that. A bad battery can show good voltage 12 - 14v, but have no current to push the volts. If not power and grounds, look at your fuel (water in the gas?), in-tank filter, clogged fuel line, loose fuel line sucking in air, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
FOUND IT, and we are back on the road again. It was one of my stick coils, which finally went down almost completely so I was only firing on one cylinder. But what I did was to feel (rather quickly and lightly) the pipes to see which one was hottest. Then striped it all down AGAIN, and swaped the coils over to see if it changed sides, And it did. I guess I was relying to much on an Holms test with the muty metre, which showed them to be ok. I had only changed them 8000miles ago,when I changed the plugs. And what a pig they where to get out. Had to use a pair of plumbers stiltson and prise them out with a large screwdriver that time. It took me 20mins to move them 1/4 inch. Anyway that was then.
I thought the Fi light would of shown a fault this time with them breaking down. At least I now know and feel confident striping it as far as I did in case I have a breakdown while on a long trip. One thing you must remember to do when removing the air box,and that is to place a couple of rags into the tops of the air intakes and a large rag into the back of the air box. cuz if you drop one of the 4 cap heads either into an air intake or worse, the bottom of the air box were it goes into the breather Your Stuffed.
Thanks all for your comments and suggestions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I had a similar problem with coils that were reading fine with the multi-meter. My problem was with the bike being wet, and that was causing the missfire. Found that one of the coils had a small crack, thinner than the hair, and was in fact bad insulated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,000 Posts
There is no FI fault code for the coils/spark plugs. There is one for the crankshaft position sensor.

Stick coil is easier to remove if you rotate it before pulling out. Apply dielectric compound on it when reinstalling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The trouble I had that time was that the baker lite insulator had split and expanded so I couldn't get anything to lube them out, they wouldn`t twist or budge, so I had to revert to drastic measures with a large screwdriver under the neck of the coil for leverage, and a large monkey wrench to twist them until they moved bit by bit. I think it pays you to take them out every 5000 miles
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top