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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1) Booster Plug
2) Thermo-Bob
3) 170/60/17 rear tires
4) speedo healer
5) Top box rack
Lets continue the list: (Requirement something that the factory should come with the first place)
6) Electronic Cruise Control (JRW2007) this will make the bike come in throttle by wire
7) 19 in front with dirt tires accessory package or KLE650Dirt/SuperMoto Edition (AmbientMoto)
 

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To claim a must , it should solve a serious problem, not a peculiar preference.
These are not musts.
After 120'000km, I can tell you that the bike works well without any of these.

I find only 1 "must" for the versys, for general use: adding a voltmeter, because we know the stator will eventually fail and it's important to monitor. This may leads to wanting the series regulator, but that is also a perf mod.

If all perf mod were "must", the bike would be a like a bmw at 30k$....

(I can offer a few more "must" for offroad use, but it seems to spark bashing discussions from unbelievers...).
 

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Mirror extenders. I agree with D, most of those things are not absolutely necessary and would drive up the cost. I've never had a top box on any bike, nor have I missed having one. Speedo healer? go up a tooth on the front sprocket.
 

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I agree with D that those "must have" items are better qualified as personal preferences. My Gen 1 650 was a very good all around machine with none of those "must" items. And I can't help but wonder why anyone would buy a machine that lacked all those "must have" items in the first place, but that's merely my opinion.
 

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1) Booster Plug
2) Thermo-Bob
3) 170/60/17 rear tires
4) speedo healer
5) Top box rack
Lets continue the list: (Requirement something that the factory should come with the first place)
I don't know what a booster plug is. My V has 40k on it, and the only item on that list I have is a top box. I really like it to store a helmet, or pick up stuff, but its the first bike I've ever had with 1 so clearly not a must.

The only things I'd say are a must is a larger kickstand foot. Any bike I've ever had seems to sink into pavement.

I'd rather have a less expensive bike, and ill choose whats needed, and not pay for a bunch of those "needs".
 

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Stock seat and windscreen performance could be better. Much like most bikes. I wish the V came with a rear shelf, like the 'Strom. Then again... it's not a Strom.

How about a 19" front? Definitely not a "must" but would be nice.
 

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The forward seat slant is a must fix for my and my pillion's asses for anything over 100 miles. There are prenty of cheap DIY fixes availiable and that's the route I took.
 

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... I can't help but wonder why anyone would buy a machine that lacked all those "must have" items in the first place....
I think you are onto something, here...!

There is a bit of fun dreaming about what the versys could be.
You know what's even funnier?
Take another bike and make a "must remove" list... BMW and KTM are the funniest for sure...
:-D
 

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The forward seat slant is a must fix for my and my pillion's asses for anything over 100 miles. There are prenty of cheap DIY fixes availiable and that's the route I took.
I ack that slant, but never ever been an issue. I guess I stuck with the basics we are thought in riding school, that is to get as forward as possible, on the tank.
Every day that I forget that is the eve of a painful next day, neck and shoulder wise.
 

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I ack that slant, but never ever been an issue. I guess I stuck with the basics we are thought in riding school, that is to get as forward as possible, on the tank.
Every day that I forget that is the eve of a painful next day, neck and shoulder wise.
When you're cruising, it's nice to stretch out or just change position very now and then.

My pillion complains the seat hurts her tail bone.

I reduced the seat angle and it's more comfortable for both of us now and probably no lose in performance if you're trying to go faster.
 

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I'll let others throw out cosmetic / ergonomic upgrades like replacement seat, windshield, rear mudguard, RAM-Mount, etc + the whole Power Commander - Booster Plug - ECU flash debate. Here's a cheap convenience you don't see mentioned in many forums - a keychain garage opener, less than $20 on Amazon. (Make sure you get the correct color code for your unit)

182386
 

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1) Booster Plug
2) Thermo-Bob
3) 170/60/17 rear tires
4) speedo healer
5) Top box rack
Lets continue the list: (Requirement something that the factory should come with the first place)
I would suggest the ECU reflash by Shoodaben Engineering. My stock 2018 Versys 650 was great out of the box. But it does (did) do a lot of bucking if I tried to apply power below 3000 rpm. The ECU reflash did a great job of taming that tendency. Now I can gently roll on a bit of power at under 2000 rpm and get a smooth and effective response. The change also reduced the abrupt on/off performance when going from throttle-on to engine braking. There appears to be no loss of power or torque at the higher rpm's. Overall I am very pleased with the results. The price for the reflash was $270. Shoodaben Engineering can be reached at [email protected].
 

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When you're cruising, it's nice to stretch out or just change position very now and then.

My pillion complains the seat hurts her tail bone.

I reduced the seat angle and it's more comfortable for both of us now and probably no lose in performance if you're trying to go faster.
Could you explain how you were able to reduce the seat angle? I assume you mean more up in the front?
 

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Fender extender,keeps things cleaner.
Ive just had a Nitron shock and gold fork valves fitted,its a much better bike to ride.
Other mods are bigger screen,heated grips,higher mirrors,gps,chain oiler,airhawk seat,full set givi luggage,

Happy riding
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A lot of people misinform about auto chain oiler, higher end chain is built to run dry on sprocket and rollers. X W Z ring chains are internal greased. Best experience is grease the side O-rings with Kawasaki all purpose grease (I use it for cars, boats $12 jar used for over 7 years still good) or equivalent. Here is the idea, more you oil and dust and road grim gets on the chain it act is hard sandpaper and accelerate the normal wear. Solution use steel chain and sprockets, my chain is tested on 1200cc bikes, their is many chains up to 1400cc cost more. The stock chain only last me 8000 miles and I was always cleaning and lubing till I did research and my 2nd set. I have not need adjusted for 3 years. Just clean and relube the exposed O-rings.
 

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Could you explain how you were able to reduce the seat angle? I assume you mean more up in the front?
I raised the front of the seat by unbolting the front attachment point of the seat and stacking washers under it then rebolting down. How many washers depends on how much angle you wish to remove.
 

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I'll let others throw out cosmetic / ergonomic upgrades like replacement seat, windshield, rear mudguard, RAM-Mount, etc + the whole Power Commander - Booster Plug - ECU flash debate. Here's a cheap convenience you don't see mentioned in many forums - a keychain garage opener, less than $20 on Amazon. (Make sure you get the correct color code for your unit)

View attachment 182386
I have a much better one.................

 
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