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So I just bought a 2014 650 and I’m thrilled but I have an issue I need your opinions on. When the bike has been sitting and is cold occasionally when I hit the starter button the starter doesn’t engage. Let off the button and hit it again and presto fires right up. I have t had it long enough to have many miles on it but today I got in 50ish. After having this happen the first time I tried to start it at the house today it didn’t do it a single time during a couple of stops I made for gas coffee etc. Could a weak battery cause this or, should I be looking at the switch or starter / solenoid?

Thanks in advance
 

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Check Grounds

So I just bought a 2014 650 and I’m thrilled but I have an issue I need your opinions on. When the bike has been sitting and is cold occasionally when I hit the starter button the starter doesn’t engage. Let off the button and hit it again and presto fires right up. I have t had it long enough to have many miles on it but today I got in 50ish. After having this happen the first time I tried to start it at the house today it didn’t do it a single time during a couple of stops I made for gas coffee etc. Could a weak battery cause this or, should I be looking at the switch or starter / solenoid?

Thanks in advance
I will give some basics, after that I would prefer to move the thread where PDF files can be added securely.
So I do some basics for every electrical post, common problems that occur that go unnoticed, right now there is a similar thread in the UK that I posted under Inverterman . So you need to check your engine ground and your frame grounds, when I say check, take them apart and use a scotch brite pad, use a very light amount of dielectric grease . Secondly are you using the engine kill switch. If you are using the kill switch post that, a trick I use is to open that extremely gradually while running. I want to create a arc, you need roughly 3 amp or 36 watts to blow away oxide. Do this once or twice and only use the kill switch in a emergency.


The engine ground I suggest to convert the ring stakon to a modified fork, cut a V equal to slightly less than the diameter of the bolt, once you clean the aluminum oxide of the casting, start the bolt by hand and get at least 2 threads in, then push your modified ring terminal in, finish tightening, as before use a small amount of dielectric grease. Several frame grounds. Their locations are in the manual.


Next time this happens, keep your finger on the start button and pull the clutch in, report back.
 

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When your bike sit out in cold ,do you charge the battery ? Is the bike hocked up to any charger , if not advice to get one if you are not riding very often. Other,s follow to check the ground as per advice by Onewizard.
 

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I had a failed solenoid on my 2013 only about 5k miles. It was intermittent for a little while and would only fail on the first or second attempt of the day. Solenoid is under left side panel. I had to use a meter on it on the first attempt of the day to find it. 12v to the solenoid coil wire and it clicked but no power on the wire to the starter. Ma K want a lot of $ for the solenoid so check Amazon if you need one. The 12v to the solenoid proves all the other safety switches are working.
 

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100% Great idea

I had a failed solenoid on my 2013 only about 5k miles. It was intermittent for a little while and would only fail on the first or second attempt of the day. Solenoid is under left side panel. I had to use a meter on it on the first attempt of the day to find it. 12v to the solenoid coil wire and it clicked but no power on the wire to the starter. Ma K want a lot of $ for the solenoid so check Amazon if you need one. The 12v to the solenoid proves all the other safety switches are working.
My post was in response to a post on the UK forum, slightly different, but while pressing the starter button I instructed him to pull in the clutch, it started== a problem with the neutral switch, possibly the frame ground, I look at this as a control problem, current below 1 amp where oxide or a high resistance joint isn't allowing the relay to energize . The starter solenoid draws a much higher current on the control circuit and keep in mind if the control circuit was defective for the solenoid , you wouldn't get a headlight relay energized.
To prove the solenoid power contacts which like you said, several have had failures, not unexpected , however you would need to have a meter hooked up to prove it.

For those that have converted to the Polaris regulator and have used the pin #2 to #3 connection, if pushing the start button resulted in the headlight going out and no cranking, you have a bad start solenoid No meter required. For the OP if he was of like mind , he could do the conversion , pin #2 to #3 of the headlight relay. Again no meter required, if the headlight stays on during pushing the start button, you have problems upstream and they are low current control problems.
 
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