this looks like a good system as you can adjust the height. however, the rox risers allow you to move the whole thing forward or backward. these guys really invented a superior system. by my main point is the 2" rise can work with our little versys.....I just measured my Pit Posse adjustable risers......they are right at 3/4” rise and I have about 1/2 to
3/4” free movement of the front brake hose and the clutch cable.......neither bind on full lock either way. The risers have been installed for at least 20000 miles with no issues and nothing has been re-routed. Just FYI.
Fly-Sig, I'm interested in doing just what you said worked for you, but when I look at the Rox website (ADV / Dual Sport / Dirt Bike Handlebar Risers) I don't see 1.5" risers for 7/8" bars. Do you know the Rox PN for what you installed that worked well for you?I think I went with 1.5" Rox risers. The cables are just long enough to work. I moved my bars both back and up. A larger riser would not have allowed the bars to be pulled back, but you could get more UP than 1.5" if you just move the bars straight up.
Right in the money! Others have and said it worked fine. Kudos to them, but not me. I just returned a set of risers for the same reason. Just not worth the hassle to me.If you look for my post on the rox risers you'll see I also used shorter profile protaper bars. In my opinion you should not raise the handlebars on this bike without buying a new clutch cable which has to be custom made or without buying lower handlebars (which essentially removes the rise lol). I was able to move the bars back without actually raising them and that works well for me my primary reason for the risers was to get the rubber vibration isolation.
While you "can physically bolt on risers" everything is perfectly fine when the bars are straight but I noticed my clutch slipping a bit in turns. I inspected the situation and noticed that when I turned my bars the clutch was actually getting actuated a little bad news for your clutch glad I caught into it very quickly.
Do it right or don't do it at all because my bet is you'll be wondering why you need a new clutch before 10k miles and end up blaming the bike.
I would LOVE to hear the details on your SS front brake line. I have 1" risers/set backs and all is good, but have never liked the front brake feel from day 1.I just checked, and there are no problems with the cables and 2" rox risers, but you need to reroute the clutch cable to the back side of the triple tree, which is easy.
However, I had issues with the brake lines only after I fitted the Brembo RCS master cylinder; when turning the wheel to the extreme the brake lines were stretching too much. I solved this problem by replacing the otherwise crappy front brake lines with stainless steel ones.
Well, I got the stainless lines in Thailand, which they import from HEL and modify according to the demand. They did it in one day and delivered the next day. If you go to HEL website, you can design your own brake lines. It is a bit complicated, because of the ABS connectors, but you should be able to manage. the abs connectors, the ones that enter the ABS unit should be the same for all Kawasaki bikes. You need basically two lines, one that goes to master cylinder and the other to Calliper. I suggest to make it a few inches longer than the OEM just in case that you one day install a higher handlebar risers.I would LOVE to hear the details on your SS front brake line. I have 1" risers/set backs and all is good, but have never liked the front brake feel from day 1.