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I need my handlebars up a bit. Even a little would help... But, as I tested the slack on the cables there appears to be very little "give room." Anyone made this mod? Recommendations on what to do and what you used
 

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I'm using ROX risers which give about 1" up and 1" back. No rerouting of wires and hoses, as I recall. Got the bar to exactly where I wanted it. Can't remember the part # as they've been on my shelf awhile. But a visit to the ROX site should find them. Excellent quality, fit, finish.

John
 

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I think I went with 1.5" Rox risers. The cables are just long enough to work. I moved my bars both back and up. A larger riser would not have allowed the bars to be pulled back, but you could get more UP than 1.5" if you just move the bars straight up.
 

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from my experience, to fit 1" riser you need to reroute the clutch cable. I personally managed to fit 2" rox risers (a copy) but had to additionally reroute a bit the brake cable. I have magura radial MC, with an extension (as it attaches to banjo at the bottom), so just unclipped it from the lower bracket. I think 2" are perfect for me and needed since I fitted the tall seat.
 

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I just measured my Pit Posse adjustable risers......they are right at 3/4” rise and I have about 1/2 to
3/4” free movement of the front brake hose and the clutch cable.......neither bind on full lock either way. The risers have been installed for at least 20000 miles with no issues and nothing has been re-routed. Just FYI.

Like these:
 

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I just measured my Pit Posse adjustable risers......they are right at 3/4” rise and I have about 1/2 to
3/4” free movement of the front brake hose and the clutch cable.......neither bind on full lock either way. The risers have been installed for at least 20000 miles with no issues and nothing has been re-routed. Just FYI.

Like these:
[/QUOT
this looks like a good system as you can adjust the height. however, the rox risers allow you to move the whole thing forward or backward. these guys really invented a superior system. by my main point is the 2" rise can work with our little versys.....
 

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I think I went with 1.5" Rox risers. The cables are just long enough to work. I moved my bars both back and up. A larger riser would not have allowed the bars to be pulled back, but you could get more UP than 1.5" if you just move the bars straight up.
Fly-Sig, I'm interested in doing just what you said worked for you, but when I look at the Rox website (ADV / Dual Sport / Dirt Bike Handlebar Risers) I don't see 1.5" risers for 7/8" bars. Do you know the Rox PN for what you installed that worked well for you?
 

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I also could not see 1.5" risers. but 2" risers work just fine, though some rerouting of clutch cable is needed.
 

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I just tried to install the 2" anti vibration risers and could not get them on without stressing the brake line. Anyone who has installed these have tips on how to route everything to play nicely? As far as I can tell I'm going to have to take the line off the cylinder and run it behind the forks or something.
 

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If you look for my post on the rox risers you'll see I also used shorter profile protaper bars. In my opinion you should not raise the handlebars on this bike without buying a new clutch cable which has to be custom made or without buying lower handlebars (which essentially removes the rise lol). I was able to move the bars back without actually raising them and that works well for me, my primary reason for the rox risers was to get the rubber vibration isolation.

While you "can physically bolt on risers" everything is perfectly fine when the bars are straight but I noticed my clutch slipping a bit in turns. I inspected the situation and noticed that when I turned my bars the clutch was actually getting actuated a little, bad news for your clutch, glad I caught onto it very quickly.

Do it right or don't do it at all because my bet is you'll be wondering why you need a new clutch before 10k miles and end up blaming the bike.
 

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If you look for my post on the rox risers you'll see I also used shorter profile protaper bars. In my opinion you should not raise the handlebars on this bike without buying a new clutch cable which has to be custom made or without buying lower handlebars (which essentially removes the rise lol). I was able to move the bars back without actually raising them and that works well for me my primary reason for the risers was to get the rubber vibration isolation.

While you "can physically bolt on risers" everything is perfectly fine when the bars are straight but I noticed my clutch slipping a bit in turns. I inspected the situation and noticed that when I turned my bars the clutch was actually getting actuated a little bad news for your clutch glad I caught into it very quickly.

Do it right or don't do it at all because my bet is you'll be wondering why you need a new clutch before 10k miles and end up blaming the bike.
Right in the money! Others have and said it worked fine. Kudos to them, but not me. I just returned a set of risers for the same reason. Just not worth the hassle to me.
 

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I think maybe others don't know they have a problem. It's not overly apparent until you are at 10k rpm through a sharp turn or at very low speeds at full lock.

Even then the average non-mechanical type person probably wouldn't notice.
 

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I just checked, and there are no problems with the cables and 2" rox risers, but you need to reroute the clutch cable to the back side of the triple tree, which is easy.

However, I had issues with the brake lines only after I fitted the Brembo RCS master cylinder; when turning the wheel to the extreme the brake lines were stretching too much. I solved this problem by replacing the otherwise crappy front brake lines with stainless steel ones.
 

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I didn't find confidence in the clutch cable being rerouted behind the triple I tried and felt the binding and likelihood of excessive wear on the cable jacket wasn't worth the worry.
 

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I ride like this 1000km, and no wear or binding. the clutch cable goes anyway behind the triple tree, but normally first passing through the metal bracket in front. it is a standard practice. even rox risers company sometimes mentions that some rerouting of cables maybe needed. but if one does not want to change the oem setup, 1.5" risers do the job, but rox risers company does not have them. there is a great advantage of their system; one can adjust them for two different positions - handlebars position and pushing the risers back.
 

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I just checked, and there are no problems with the cables and 2" rox risers, but you need to reroute the clutch cable to the back side of the triple tree, which is easy.

However, I had issues with the brake lines only after I fitted the Brembo RCS master cylinder; when turning the wheel to the extreme the brake lines were stretching too much. I solved this problem by replacing the otherwise crappy front brake lines with stainless steel ones.
I would LOVE to hear the details on your SS front brake line. I have 1" risers/set backs and all is good, but have never liked the front brake feel from day 1.
 

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I would LOVE to hear the details on your SS front brake line. I have 1" risers/set backs and all is good, but have never liked the front brake feel from day 1.
Well, I got the stainless lines in Thailand, which they import from HEL and modify according to the demand. They did it in one day and delivered the next day. If you go to HEL website, you can design your own brake lines. It is a bit complicated, because of the ABS connectors, but you should be able to manage. the abs connectors, the ones that enter the ABS unit should be the same for all Kawasaki bikes. You need basically two lines, one that goes to master cylinder and the other to Calliper. I suggest to make it a few inches longer than the OEM just in case that you one day install a higher handlebar risers.
 
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