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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 16 Versys and I have the factory relay installed (actually just installed a generic relay) to activate the bullet connectors up front for the gear indicator and the connectors for the heated grips and LED lights. I am however confused at the capacity of this circuit. When I pull the 5amp ACC fuse all connections are dead. The same happens when I pull the 10 amp (AIG I think) fuse. Currently I have a gear indicator and a tank bag 12v connection connected to the connectors up front and heated grips connected to the connectors designated for that. My question/issue is I have (2) 60w (10amp) LED light I want to connect. Can I connect those to the factory wires on the left side behind the fearing near the radiator or will that pop the fuse? Thanks
 

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If you pull the fuze of course no power will be used to complete the circuit. Here is the basic how modern vehicles use circuit. (-) Battery (+)connects to a switch ---> relay ---> fuse ---> lights, toys, music, heated grips or est. (-) ---> (+) Battery. To answer your question it's hard, got pictures, it's almost like you going to do harm to your bike.
 

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60 Watts ?

So I have a 16 Versys and I have the factory relay installed (actually just installed a generic relay) to activate the bullet connectors up front for the gear indicator and the connectors for the heated grips and LED lights. I am however confused at the capacity of this circuit. When I pull the 5amp ACC fuse all connections are dead. The same happens when I pull the 10 amp (AIG I think) fuse. Currently I have a gear indicator and a tank bag 12v connection connected to the connectors up front and heated grips connected to the connectors designated for that. My question/issue is I have (2) 60w (10amp) LED light I want to connect. Can I connect those to the factory wires on the left side behind the fearing near the radiator or will that pop the fuse? Thanks
First I find it hard to believe you have 5 amp at 12 volt LED lamps, what are they like 12000 lumen each ? Secondly, lots of info in this forum under How To
If truly 10 amp, you need to add a separate fused circuit C/W relay, triggered off either your aux. relay or tail light, depending where you mount the relay.
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...-oxford-grips-power-distribution-outlets.html
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...witched-power-source-heated-clothing-etc.html
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...-relay-power-outlet-install-2015-earlier.html
 

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To add to the above responses, two different fuses are in play with the accessory relay. The bullet connectors themselves are on the 5A fused circuit. The accessory relay uses a switched power source as a trigger and that source is on the 10A fused circuit you found. So when you pull that 10A fuse, the relay can't close to provide power from the 5A circuit, because the trigger is gone, and when you pull just the 5A Accessory fuse, the relay can still close but can provide no juice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. I'm agree on the wattage. They are from China and listed as 60w. After testing with a meter they draw 1.4amps each so like 17watts. Is that ok to connect to the bullet connectors designated for the OEM lights? According to what you are saying all 3 bullet connector locations are on a 5 amp? If that's the case my heated grips and these lights would probably pop the fuse. How do I access the 10amp circuit? I thought installing the relay activated the bullet connectors which would mean they are on the 10amp circuit?
 

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Thanks for the responses. I'm agree on the wattage. They are from China and listed as 60w. After testing with a meter they draw 1.4amps each so like 17watts. Is that ok to connect to the bullet connectors designated for the OEM lights? According to what you are saying all 3 bullet connector locations are on a 5 amp? If that's the case my heated grips and these lights would probably pop the fuse. How do I access the 10amp circuit? I thought installing the relay activated the bullet connectors which would mean they are on the 10amp circuit?
Personally I would add a second fused circuit and relay, there is no 10 amp aux. cct., that trigger cct. is your fuel pump and ECU power feed, you don't want to mess with that.

A alternative would be to upgrade your city lights to phillips LED, tap into the city lights for your China lights. Look at 16-56 of the service manual, the city lights, horn and tail light are on a 10 amp fuse. The reason for a separate fused cct and relay is for good reason, you follow my alternate method and crash, guess what, you lose your tail and brake light and plate light and no horn
 

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Cheap and slow to illuminate HID’s don’t make for good high beams. My experience with HID conversions were less than positive so I switched to LED bulbs - reasonably priced good ones, not the cheap ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I do have LED bulbs in my blinkers, running lights, licence plate, headlight and hi-beam light. I am adding these auxiliary lights for both daytime viability to others as well as to increase visibility at night for myself. I realize the aux light I got are cheap, and may cause others to flash me at night, but honestly I really don't care anymore. Majority of cars our there have improperly aimed or improperly matched bulb to housing and are super bright when looking at them. So at this point I figure for the small amount of nighttime riding I do I am ok getting a few flashes. I wired the lights direct to the factory connector and along with my heated grips on high no fuses popped. I am guessing the lights I have would draw comparable amps to the factory lights so I am going to leave it how it is for now. Hopefully I do not have any issues. Thanks.

Funny thing, I ordered the below and they showed up with 6 leds instead of 4 and are labeled 60W on the side, obviously they are not 60w, but they are really bright!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-LED-Whit...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
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