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Discussion Starter #1
So I've put a couple thousand miles on my lovely V now and have worked through most things I had questions about. One of the few remaining has to do with my idle seemingly changing for no apparent reason. Bike is fully warmed up, I come to a stop, and she might be closer to 1200. Other times closer to 1400. And I have had to reach down every week to do a slight adjustment of my idle speed trying to keep in the goldilocks zone of 1300.

Given the bike is fully warm, I can't figure out why it would idle higher or lower one day versus the other.

Any insights?
 

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1: try and a throttle body syncronisation.
2: you also try the throttle body mod - by linking the vacuum test pipes together.

I noticed my idle was wandering a little also, but I also had vibrations i want to sort out - TB sync did that for me.
 

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So I've put a couple thousand miles on my lovely V now and have worked through most things I had questions about. One of the few remaining has to do with my idle seemingly changing for no apparent reason. Bike is fully warmed up, I come to a stop, and she might be closer to 1200. Other times closer to 1400. And I have had to reach down every week to do a slight adjustment of my idle speed trying to keep in the goldilocks zone of 1300.

Given the bike is fully warm, I can't figure out why it would idle higher or lower one day versus the other.

Any insights?
Ambient temperature does affect idle speed. It will be higher when it's colder outside, and lower when it's warmer.

It will benefit from a TB vacuum synch, after making sure valve clearances are good.

Idle and low speed fuel mixture is a bit lean which can lead to idle rpm hunting, especially at lower altitudes such as in Seattle. A slight counterclockwise adjustment of the main throttle sensor adds enough fuel at idle and low throttle opening to cure the lean stumble/surge at near 2,800 rpm as well.
 

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I cleaned the throttle plates with Carb cleaner while doing the throttle sync and the idle has been consistent. I too had to adjust occasionally and it seem to be more frequent needed adjustments as the mileage piles up. The edges of the plates were blackened and a few squirts of the cleaner clears it up.
 

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Because engine was still cold, she was surprised by the jump to fast idle which is more pronounced once shifted out of neutral. She panicked and was unable to keep it under control due to a lack of riding skills, coordination and experience on a motorcycle that is too tall for her. :nono:
Before she took off the engine had been idling for at least 2 minutes.
 

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We don't know what really happened, so we can't just blame the Versys.
No argument there as she did make a mistake with front brake going down a hill on gravel but as I said on my thread about our accident that I noticed it did not go into high idle from start up and went straight to 1300rpm which I commented to my wife that was strange.
 

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No argument there as she did make a mistake with front brake going down a hill on gravel but as I said on my thread about our accident that I noticed it did not go into high idle from start up and went straight to 1300rpm which I commented to my wife that was strange.
There is always a delay upon startup, then a slight dip as it assumes full fast idle speed... Cooled coolant sitting in the radiator may initiate fast idle after it's restarted. Fast idle speed is also increased when shifting out of neutral with what appears to be additional ignition timing advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I appreciate the input here and it does reassure me a bit. I have not done the TB sync, nor vacuum mod yet. I've just hit 10,000 miles but am riding at a rate to put about 8,000 a year on her. So valves and those other things are in my near future.

Otherwise, she runs like perfectly. By the way, I took a nice ride out to Port Townsend this weekend and managed to get 60 mpg on the trip. It's pretty amazing riding a motorcycle here in Washington because of our mountains and ocean. So many types of rides within a few hours of one another. But even the cop bikes here ride on PR3's for the wet traction!
 

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The throttle body sync has a suggested maintenance every 7500 miles. I'm looking at doing mine soon. It looks pretty easy once you have the gauges and a pilot adjust tool.
 

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A 90 degree pilot adjuster tool needs to be extremely compact behind the TB's vacuum bypass adjustment screw... It's much easier with the airbox removed, and with rear of fuel tank propped up. I used the air filter foam element taped onto TB inlets.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I honestly have no idea what you are talking about with a pilot adjusting tool. There is nothing like that with cars that I have ever used. I'm sure it is in the manual, and when I get around to syncing my TB I will scour this forum for all the tips provided elsewhere by you all!
 

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You only need the 90 deg tool if you can get the stoppers off the sync pipes and put on you manometer hoses and DO NOT want lift the tank and remove the air box.

If you cannot get the stoppers off the sync pipes like me, as they needed to be twisted off not pulled off, these can be hard enough to reach even with angled long noses pliers. You have to get in there minimum of 4 times. Too hard. And the 90deg angle tool is not cheap.

You already have to check the air filter and plugs and coil packs regularly anyway so you may as well get under the tank and check it all at the same time. And you then do not need the 90 deg tool, you can finally use one of the flat screw driver bits from you 3000 piece tool kit just in your fingers to adjust the throttle sync.



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****ty winter gas had my Versys idle going all over the place.
Not sure they change the mixture out in WA but I know it changes on the east coast.

Not only did my idle stop going all over, I dropped 6 mpg on average.
 

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A 90 degree pilot adjuster tool needs to be extremely compact behind the TB's vacuum bypass adjustment screw... It's much easier with the airbox removed, and with rear of fuel tank propped up. I used the air filter foam element taped onto TB inlets.
So are you propping the tank and then removing the air box?
 

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Here's the view with rear end of fuel tank propped up. I use a small block of wood, about 4 inches tall:

Leave the closed screw (usually the right TB screw) as it is, and balance both at 1300 rpm idle by adjusting the screw that is aready open. Yes, opening it more lowers its vacuum reading... You can run it without the airbox but with inlet air temperature sensor still connected and unscrewed from airbox, by propping rear of fuel tank up a few inches to access TB vacuum bypass screw. I covered the TB inlets with original air filter element, but you can use a single layer of lint-free cotton fabric... Easily accessible with airbox removed, here's the left throttle body's vacuum bypass adjustment screw at the end of red straw, as seen from fuel tank's rear mount:

 
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