Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
I
Voltage is a bit fluctuating, after 2 minutes it workes up from 13.8V and settles to 13.95-14.00V at 1.1 RPM. Maybe if waited even longer I would get a better reading. Throttle bodies aren't quite working hence fluctuation, idle increases after warm up to 1.25RPM but that's a different issue altogether

If its normal to get that kind of voltage with a high beam on then it would mean you can't really run anything else on the bike with a high beam on not aux lights, not heated grips or anything else? If I was ever to buy gen 3 I had ideas to add all these accessories including dashboard cameras powered by battery but the more I look into it the less reasonable it looks due to poor power output
incorrect, at idle that voltage is expected with high beam. I recall you stating something about having a series regulator, your year had issues with corrosion, take the 3 phase plug apart near your stator and inspect it, very possible you have a burnt pin, as load increases it lets go, vibration makes the connection. I have seen several members with this, if left , stator failure will occur. I have left a link previously on testing.
FYI I have converted my 2015 to 100% LED, before I had Osram 65 watt incandescent , at or above 2500 RPM I could run heated grips and high beam, at or above 3500 RPM I could also run heated gear and 13.8 to 13.9 VDC . After converting the headlights, I have double the candle power and half the wattage, my LED headlights are a fixed 36 watt , so I only use the high beam at night as I have Denali trioptic lamps on at high beam which is 10 watts total,.

I have now freed up enough power that I could run a second heated gear for a passenger, it would only drop below 13.8 at idle and when the fan runs ( 80 watt fan ) Yes the Wattage output should be 500 watts, not 320 watts. problem is Kawasaki is reluctant to convert to a better regulator. Say we had a 500 watt stator, the regulator would need to waste a additional 180 watts. My guess is possibly 2021 they will convert over to series or something similar, it comes down to $$$$$



 
  • Like
Reactions: Fastoman

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I

incorrect, at idle that voltage is expected with high beam. I recall you stating something about having a series regulator, your year had issues with corrosion, take the 3 phase plug apart near your stator and inspect it, very possible you have a burnt pin, as load increases it lets go, vibration makes the connection. I have seen several members with this, if left , stator failure will occur. I have left a link previously on testing.
FYI I have converted my 2015 to 100% LED, before I had Osram 65 watt incandescent , at or above 2500 RPM I could run heated grips and high beam, at or above 3500 RPM I could also run heated gear and 13.8 to 13.9 VDC . After converting the headlights, I have double the candle power and half the wattage, my LED headlights are a fixed 36 watt , so I only use the high beam at night as I have Denali trioptic lamps on at high beam which is 10 watts total,.

I have now freed up enough power that I could run a second heated gear for a passenger, it would only drop below 13.8 at idle and when the fan runs ( 80 watt fan ) Yes the Wattage output should be 500 watts, not 320 watts. problem is Kawasaki is reluctant to convert to a better regulator. Say we had a 500 watt stator, the regulator would need to waste a additional 180 watts. My guess is possibly 2021 they will convert over to series or something similar, it comes down to $$$$$



Yeah vibrations are causing issues and that's definatly a possibility. If I can see and feel the bike vibrating so do other parts i.e. battery has some scratch marks which can only be caused by vibration
I assumed gen 3 already came with LED lights?

Do you mean 2022? Its overdue for gen 4 now I would say. I guess it will have similar front fairing as ninja or versys 1000

Also, why you didnt fancy using OEM aux lights? They look cooler and beefier or is it just too expensive?
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
Yeah vibrations are causing issues and that's definatly a possibility. If I can see and feel the bike vibrating so do other parts i.e. battery has some scratch marks which can only be caused by vibration
I assumed gen 3 already came with LED lights?

Do you mean 2022? Its overdue for gen 4 now I would say. I guess it will have similar front fairing as ninja or versys 1000

Also, why you didnt fancy using OEM aux lights? They look cooler and beefier or is it just too expensive?
Like the side cases , my bike was purchased from Kijiji in February directly from a dealer. I purchased the 650 ABS , as I didn't like the LT cases or any other included extras. All my extras were purchased right at new, some from Twisted Throttle Canada, some from the dealer, all quoted, which gave me a 15% discount from both the dealer and Twisted. The Oxford grips and Barkbusters from the dealer, most of the rest with a few exceptions from Twisted. As to expensive, my guess would be that they are cheaper than the Denali.
 

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
I have tested the stator at 2k/4k and voltage seems to check out. However, I am not sure about resistance - it shows 1.0-0.9 ohm which would mean an open lead unless somehow didn't manage to check properly. All 3 pairs show pretty much the same reading maybe one stays more on 0.9 while others stick with 1.0. Again, not too sure if this makes sense because I wouldn't be getting that 27/28V at 2K RPM or would I?

And something would be nice to get clarification on - at idle I get 13.8-14V, at accelerating I get no less than 13.1/2V with everything off - is that normal? There doesn't seem to be much difference on what RPM is it and reading slightly vary every time I try

Welp, a year ago I had a similar problem Bike shuts down mid ride + blown fuse it turned out be rectifier issue even if all testing checked out. I still have old and I will try to swap out and see what it shows.

And looking at my old post, yes 13.1V under load with no extra on is pretty low
 

Registered
Joined
22 Posts
Do you have a copy of the factory service manual? My copy specifies stator output at 42V or more at 4k rpm and doesn't spec a 2k rpm output. Also my copy specifies .18-.27 ohms between leads of the stator not 1 ohm (but many cheap DMMs have a hard time giving accurate readings less than 1 ohm).

An excerpt: "
Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open
(wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or
open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output,
or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be
caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it
near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in
low output.
"
 

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Do you have a copy of the factory service manual? My copy specifies stator output at 42V or more at 4k rpm and doesn't spec a 2k rpm output. Also my copy specifies .18-.27 ohms between leads of the stator not 1 ohm (but many cheap DMMs have a hard time giving accurate readings less than 1 ohm).

An excerpt: "
Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open
(wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or
open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output,
or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be
caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it
near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in
low output.
"
Yeah I've have a manual, I've spent too much time on it re-reading sections like that.

That's what I am thinking. Last time a year ago it also gave me a reading of 1 ohm but it wasn't stators issue. Did probably at least 7k miles if not more since
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
Well I am disappointed , U posted a link to my stator test, no Kawasaki isn't paying me for the test, it is Free.
I own a meter / tester for measuring low ohms. If you understood inductance / AC , you would understand using a ohmmeter is the crudest device possible. Out of the bike a LCR meter. In the bike follow my test at 2000 RPM , there is no more accurate test than that one , your AC meter can be any cheap meter.We are looking at close to identical readings.

So for you guys trying to rewind your own stator. The delta wound has 6 poles with 44 turns per pole , at 8 feet per pole , times 6 poles or 50 feet of 18 gauge magnet wire.How you think you could find even 10 shorted turns or roughly 2 feet with a ohmmeter, is beyond me. Add to the fact it is Connected Delta , which is parallel resistance, well if you understood, you would realize the engineer that posted that test in the service manual had no clue .

For those interested, Y would be 25 turns per pole of 15 gauge.
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
I left something out, using the idle adjust screw and 2000 rpm, my test will find 4 turns shorted. And in what phase . This has been proven, with my assistance . When it comes to electrical, my statements are based on spending a lifetime involved in the electrical industry as a professional. I don't mind helping or explaining , and my explanations can be long at times, but generally I try to explain in laymen's terms.
 

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well I am disappointed , U posted a link to my stator test, no Kawasaki isn't paying me for the test, it is Free.
I own a meter / tester for measuring low ohms. If you understood inductance / AC , you would understand using a ohmmeter is the crudest device possible. Out of the bike a LCR meter. In the bike follow my test at 2000 RPM , there is no more accurate test than that one , your AC meter can be any cheap meter.We are looking at close to identical readings.

So for you guys trying to rewind your own stator. The delta wound has 6 poles with 44 turns per pole , at 8 feet per pole , times 6 poles or 50 feet of 18 gauge magnet wire.How you think you could find even 10 shorted turns or roughly 2 feet with a ohmmeter, is beyond me. Add to the fact it is Connected Delta , which is parallel resistance, well if you understood, you would realize the engineer that posted that test in the service manual had no clue .

For those interested, Y would be 25 turns per pole of 15 gauge.
Sorry I didn't make it clear, by 2k/4k tests I mean I did your test and I did one in the manual and figures seem to check out. What I was asking if resistance and voltage reading are related in case of stator issues
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
Sorry I didn't make it clear, by 2k/4k tests I mean I did your test and I did one in the manual and figures seem to check out. What I was asking if resistance and voltage reading are related in case of stator issues
If you used the idle adjustment at 2000 RPM , what volts ac did you get on the 3 readings? Post that . If you did 4000 RPM , not as accurate but post those too.
I am responding from my phone, done with computers for the day.
 

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If you used the idle adjustment at 2000 RPM , what volts ac did you get on the 3 readings? Post that . If you did 4000 RPM , not as accurate but post those too.
I am responding from my phone, done with computers for the day.
At 2k RPM readings are between 27.8-28.1
I don't remember exact figures but at 4K RPM it was 48-50V

RPM tiny bit fluctuates so it's hard to get a precise reading
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
At 2k RPM readings are between 27.8-28.1
I don't remember exact figures but at 4K RPM it was 48-50V

RPM tiny bit fluctuates so it's hard to get a precise reading
Thank you, if at 2000 RPM using the idle adjust screw, you get 27.8 to 28.1 on all 3 phases. As a example A to B 27.8 B to C 28.1 C to A 27.6 VAC, then your stator is fine. What regulator are you using? Have you checked your frame ground for corrosion?
Got a photo?
Have you checked your frame ground for corrosion?
 

Registered
Joined
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Thank you, if at 2000 RPM using the idle adjust screw, you get 27.8 to 28.1 on all 3 phases. As a example A to B 27.8 B to C 28.1 C to A 27.6 VAC, then your stator is fine. What regulator are you using? Have you checked your frame ground for corrosion?
Got a photo?
Have you checked your frame ground for corrosion?
Rectifier


Frame ground


Frame ground is fine

I've swapped out with an old faulty regulator and it gives slightly better readings - voltage at idle is 14.0-14.1V instead of 13.9-14.0V and a bit better voltage at revving
The current regulator lasted me a year with a bit so not great and its not OEM one

I've done rectifier resistance checks and check with battery steps 1 and 2 and all checks out but then again, everything checked out last time as well
 

Premium Member
Joined
9,532 Posts
Rectifier


Frame ground


Frame ground is fine

I've swapped out with an old faulty regulator and it gives slightly better readings - voltage at idle is 14.0-14.1V instead of 13.9-14.0V and a bit better voltage at revving
The current regulator lasted me a year with a bit so not great and its not OEM one

I've done rectifier resistance checks and check with battery steps 1 and 2 and all checks out but then again, everything checked out last time as well
If you checked the regulator with a ohm meter, that means it is a shunt regulator
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top