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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Voltage drops the more you rev, but at idle it keeps around 13.1V.

It's pretty slow to start - I need like 5-10 seconds of keeping the start button on until it finally starts up. That's mainly caused because reading shows at 12.4V with engine off

I had a bunch of electrical issues before but this is a new one to me - any ideas?

Maybe it's a battery but I doubt batteries just stop working one day

The engine was overheating a bit due to fan issues so not sure if that causing something

Also, the dashboard had a time reset at some point over 1 day of not using so it went completely dead until I switched ignition on
 

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AT 2000 rpm you should get 14+V on the battery. How old is your battery and Batteries do fail without notice, even brand new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
AT 2000 rpm you should get 14+V on the battery. How old is your battery and Batteries do fail without notice, even brand new ones.
2k I am getting like 12.7/9

The battery is 2 years old, rectifier 1 year old and stator is 2 years old

I will charge the battery up at home and I will see if its holding a charge

I bought battery 2 years ago but I don't see any markings of date when it was made
 

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first thing, I would test the stator


I had a situation a month ago, using heated gear and 70 KM from home on a total 430 KM ride, my neat little voltmeter suddenly dropped , equal to about 13.1 VDC, it would stay there for 30 to 45 seconds then be fine for 3 -4 minutes. I decided to keep going. It went away for 70 KM then came back, one test I did was run my horn for 10 seconds, that thing draws 20 amp, and simulated the same voltage drop. In the end I checked my regulator and connections . I load tested my battery , it performed similar to a 6 year old battery and then replaced my 6 year old battery- I couldn't prove it but think a plate was shorting out whenever I reached a certain voltage, that is possibly when my jacket switched off.

If you had the opportunity to connect to another bike battery, to see if it reacts the same or load test your battery.
I would suspect both the charging system and battery.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
first thing, I would test the stator


I had a situation a month ago, using heated gear and 70 KM from home on a total 430 KM ride, my neat little voltmeter suddenly dropped , equal to about 13.1 VDC, it would stay there for 30 to 45 seconds then be fine for 3 -4 minutes. I decided to keep going. It went away for 70 KM then came back, one test I did was run my horn for 10 seconds, that thing draws 20 amp, and simulated the same voltage drop. In the end I checked my regulator and connections . I load tested my battery , it performed similar to a 6 year old battery and then replaced my 6 year old battery- I couldn't prove it but think a plate was shorting out whenever I reached a certain voltage, that is possibly when my jacket switched off.

If you had the opportunity to connect to another bike battery, to see if it reacts the same or load test your battery.
I would suspect both the charging system and battery.
I will inspect system again

If it was issue of stator - it wouldn't charge enough and idling charging wouldn't be so high
If it was rectifier - wouldn't charge enough or voltage would be all over the place
If it was battery - ???

It only took a hour to charge from 12.4 to full according to the charger and it slowly dropped to now 12.64V. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare battery, have one in the cupboard but with 11V I think its pretty dead

Come to think about it, Ive never had issues with the battery. I've only replaced it because I didn't know better at the time how to inspect stator and rectifier
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you can load test the battery it will save all the doubts.
[/Q
If you can load test the battery it will save all the doubts.
I am not too sure what do you mean by load testing, I will need read up on that. Is revving not a load testing? Or you mean like turning high beam on and that? Anything that you use will drop voltage right?
 

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There are many in the market , but you can get it done in the nearest battery shop in your area.
 

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I am not too sure what do you mean by load testing, I will need read up on that. Is revving not a load testing? Or you mean like turning high beam on and that? Anything that you use will drop voltage right?
Just finding my thread. A really easy test using what you already have. I own a battery load tester , but how many people own one, and it is designed for car batteries with higher amp hour ratings. So I will post a link. Several things I would suggest you do.
: #1 Hook up your charger /battery tender, after 2 hours I want to know what the voltage is at the battery with the charger connected. Next , charge for a total charge time of 6 hours ( the charger should be a motorcycle charger with a preferable 1 amp maximum charge rate. At the 6 hour time I want the same reading of battery voltage with charger connected, then take the charger off.
#2 after 1 hour I want the battery voltage measured without keying on.
#3 I use the starter for load testing as it draws 50 amp, I need to find that link and post it here. This test is one of two ways, neither uses they ignition key. One is jumping out the start solenoid, the second is using the battery voltage or your charger for a 12 volt source and energizing the control circuit of the start solenoid. Wait for the link from me.

So looks like I need to edit two threads, this one contains what you need;
 

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13.1V isn't generally considered a charging voltage. A "12V" system in charging will generally be 13.8-15.6 volts. Could be your battery but I doubt it, it sounds like a charging system issue (stator or regulator) here's why. As rpm increases stator output should increase. But as rpm increase ignition and injection draw will increase. Your draw is outpacing your charging. Versys are somewhat known for stator failures. If it does wind up being a stator problem it is common to replace the shunt regulator/rectifier with a solid state pwm one (iirc the one from the raptor quad is the one commonly used) as shunt type just convert excess stator power into heat and the extra current is believed to shorten life of the stator whereas pwm type reduce stator current to achieve regulation. Hopefully all that makes sense and is helpful.
 

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13.1V isn't generally considered a charging voltage. A "12V" system in charging will generally be 13.8-15.6 volts. Could be your battery but I doubt it, it sounds like a charging system issue (stator or regulator) here's why. As rpm increases stator output should increase. But as rpm increase ignition and injection draw will increase. Your draw is outpacing your charging. Versys are somewhat known for stator failures. If it does wind up being a stator problem it is common to replace the shunt regulator/rectifier with a solid state pwm one (iirc the one from the raptor quad is the one commonly used) as shunt type just convert excess stator power into heat and the extra current is believed to shorten life of the stator whereas pwm type reduce stator current to achieve regulation. Hopefully all that makes sense and is helpful.
Always something new, PWM , a part number, source, current rating would be good. ALL the series regulators i am familiar with are SCR , six pulse full wave
 

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They carry upgrade type regulator/rectifiers. Might be where I learned about it, I almost bought a 2012 with a fried stator instead of the '09 I have but I was too slow... The pre-purchase research I did is I guess how learned about the issues.
 

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They carry upgrade type regulator/rectifiers. Might be where I learned about it, I almost bought a 2012 with a fried stator instead of the '09 I have but I was too slow... The pre-purchase research I did is I guess how learned about the issues.
I wouldn't buy a tooth brush from them. they are in Quebec, and I have seen first hand what they sell. Helped a member in Aylmer with one of their stators. The stator is China made and it is Y connected, wire gauge is undersize , it is 18 gauge and should be 15 gauge, also the laminations are thinner and require a spacer for the stock mounting screws to tighten and not go through the casting. As to their regulators, the same thing, wouldn't buy from them unless I was stranded and the only way to get home. trust me, you will not get a series regulator for under $110 Canadian.
Here is a reliable source for a regulator; note the SH847 is over $200 as a kit. rated at 50 amp peak. I have a Polaris 4016868 also rated at 50 amp and last time I checked, locally it was $115 Canadian plus tax.The difference is the 6868 has the cooling fins 90' to that of the 847. I will post a photo of my 6868 here;
4016868 series regulator mounted on my 2015 650ABS, note just very little clearance, not enough room for a triumph harness.
 

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Always something new, PWM , a part number, source, current rating would be good. ALL the series regulators i am familiar with are SCR , six pulse full wave
I wouldn't buy a tooth brush from them. they are in Quebec, and I have seen first hand what they sell. Helped a member in Aylmer with one of their stators. The stator is China made and it is Y connected, wire gauge is undersize , it is 18 gauge and should be 15 gauge, also the laminations are thinner and require a spacer for the stock mounting screws to tighten and not go through the casting. As to their regulators, the same thing, wouldn't buy from them unless I was stranded and the only way to get home. trust me, you will not get a series regulator for under $110 Canadian.
Here is a reliable source for a regulator;
To Clarify, I didn't intend to endorse the store or their product it was just meant as an example to cross over which MOSFET type PWM regulator/rectifiers are used to replace the stock one. The previous post asked to see an example of the type.
 

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To Clarify, I didn't intend to endorse the store or their product it was just meant as an example to cross over which MOSFET type PWM regulator/rectifiers are used to replace the stock one. The previous post asked to see an example of the type.
I need to apologize, got my back up , as RM Stator have discussed directly with me over the phone, very disappointing to see crap come out of Canada . As To PWM well here is a link, also the series regulators all resemble the first 3 phase open regulator

182905



182906
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
first thing, I would test the stator


I had a situation a month ago, using heated gear and 70 KM from home on a total 430 KM ride, my neat little voltmeter suddenly dropped , equal to about 13.1 VDC, it would stay there for 30 to 45 seconds then be fine for 3 -4 minutes. I decided to keep going. It went away for 70 KM then came back, one test I did was run my horn for 10 seconds, that thing draws 20 amp, and simulated the same voltage drop. In the end I checked my regulator and connections . I load tested my battery , it performed similar to a 6 year old battery and then replaced my 6 year old battery- I couldn't prove it but think a plate was shorting out whenever I reached a certain voltage, that is possibly when my jacket switched off.

If you had the opportunity to connect to another bike battery, to see if it reacts the same or load test your battery.
I would suspect both the charging system and battery.
The battery never saw more than 13.1V even when charging at the house. So I've replaced that, now idle charging voltage is 13.8+ which is nice.

Unfortunately, as RPM increase voltage still decreases. At 6-7k RPM with a high beam on I saw dropping to 12.8V. So probably still something going, maybe a brush or two burnt out or rectifier somehow shorted my battery and it's going to do the same to the new one.
Either way, I still need to test the rectifier and stator once I find time

This bike is turning into a nasty money pit...
 

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Its normal for the voltage to drop around 12.8 with Head Beam and running light ON. Simple way to test the other charging system is to check voltage at battery terminal and you should get 14V+. BTW, which point did did you measure 13.8 @ idle?
 

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Batteries can and do, die suddenly. Riding with a friend on a Honda a few weeks ago when his bike suddenly quit. I suspected an electrical problem so we took off the seat to check the battery. The ground post seemed a bit loose so I tightened the clamp. Bike started and he limped back to my nearby garage. Turned off the ignition and the bike wouldn't restart. Voltage down to 12.4.

Removed the battery and put the charger on it. It wouldn't accept a charge. I think the ground plate actually broke as it was very loose. Ordered a new battery and I continued to monitor the voltage on the old one. By the next morning, it didn't register any voltage. He replaced the 3-year-old battery and the new one is charging and holding the charge normally after 900 km of trouble-free riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Its normal for the voltage to drop around 12.8 with Head Beam and running light ON. Simple way to test the other charging system is to check voltage at battery terminal and you should get 14V+. BTW, which point did did you measure 13.8 @ idle?
Voltage is a bit fluctuating, after 2 minutes it workes up from 13.8V and settles to 13.95-14.00V at 1.1 RPM. Maybe if waited even longer I would get a better reading. Throttle bodies aren't quite working hence fluctuation, idle increases after warm up to 1.25RPM but that's a different issue altogether

If its normal to get that kind of voltage with a high beam on then it would mean you can't really run anything else on the bike with a high beam on not aux lights, not heated grips or anything else? If I was ever to buy gen 3 I had ideas to add all these accessories including dashboard cameras powered by battery but the more I look into it the less reasonable it looks due to poor power output
 

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I have run with a lot of accessories and the system can handle the voltage required. Just wait for others members to share their set up as I live on the other side of the universe and the temperature / climate do make a slight difference to the system.

Just rest your mind awhile and enjoy the ride. it will all work in your favor.
 
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