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Discussion Starter #1
which size would you get?

I know a 150/70 will fit, but seems a 170/60 would fit too, and since I'm often loaded, and I'm over 200lbs, it seems a 170/60 would be more appropriate... That's the theory anyway.

What do you think? Is the 5mm extra width on each side too much?
 

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Look at the load rating for each tire.

Thinking out loud here...... but would the 70 series tire be a closer match for the speedometer and the actual speed? Would it make any difference with all those cleats ?
 

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OR, maybe he wants a more aggressive tire on his bike. Considering the Versys is not a Ninja :)
 
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I'd be concerned about reducing clearances between the tire (the 170...), chain, and swingarm, as well as the height IF you ever bottom your rear shock.

I'd suggest the 150/70.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OR, maybe he wants a more aggressive tire on his bike. Considering the Versys is not a Ninja :)
Yep. And I'm sorry Jeff for ignoring the tkc80 a while back. I tought it was too aggressive. It's still not my intent for the rear tire (hence the anakee wild inquiry) but I have to consider it for the front. It's true that a good grippy front will go a long way for confidence.

I'd be concerned about reducing clearances between the tire (the 170...), chain, and swingarm, as well as the height IF you ever bottom your rear shock.
I'd suggest the 150/70.
I was 60% agreeing with that, now I'm 70% in agreement... :)
I'll make some measurements, but to be honest, I expect short mileage. So, without a reference, I won't know I've been robbed of 1000km (if that).

Thanks, all!
Now, I have much road riding to do with my new pr4s but this fall, anakee wild it is!

PS: have any real solid skid plate to recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The Pirelli MT60 RS comes in stock sizes for the Versys and is a radial.
I don't care.. :grin2:
This is NOT yet-another-tire-brand/model-debate thread.:wink2:

Besides, it looks like they suck (in mud or sand) as much as the heidenau k73, or no better than shinko 705.
You can stop trying to convince, we don't ride similar roads obviously.
But I guess they address some market slice.
 

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The 150 is a better tyre for dirt than a 170 which is too wide. Dirt tyres are smaller for a reason and that bigger tyre will be more prone to being both skatey on the dirt and also will adversely affect the steering by slowing it down. A 19 inch front would be great too but is seemingly too hard to create with spoked wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 150 is a better tyre for dirt than a 170 which is too wide. Dirt tyres are smaller for a reason and that bigger tyre will be more prone to being both skatey on the dirt and also will adversely affect the steering by slowing it down. A 19 inch front would be great too but is seemingly too hard to create with spoked wheels.
I'm having difficulty reconciling the notion of too-wide-bad-steering with the well known trick of lowering pressure to get more width and traction. Seems to me that a 5mm wider rear tire won't make a difference and if it did, it would be good.

For now I'm thinking of the 150/70 only because it gives a bit of margin for rim protection with 70% instead of 60% profile and is possibly lighter.
 

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Lowering pressure is okay to a point and on an enduro bike you can drop down to 6-8psi (lower if you run the Tubliss system) but they handle like ****e anywhere else unless you pump back up (to 12-14 psi) after the hard stuff is done. To give an example a few years back I had a KTM Freeride. 99kg, 350 4 stroke with half the usual KTM 350 power in a 50/50 enduro/trials type bike. I put a larger 140 rear on it (I think the usual was a 120) because I had a tyre left over from my Husaberg FE350. It totally removed the nimble handling and was only useful in a straight line.

For sure running lower pressure than the road is recommended but go too low and your advantage is limited to a certain terrain. Gravel roads will be skatey regardless of the tyre but 170 is too big and if you drop the pressure that footprint will get even wider.
 

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Lowering pressure is okay to a point and on an enduro bike you can drop down to 6-8psi (lower if you run the Tubliss system) but they handle like ****e anywhere else unless you pump back up (to 12-14 psi) after the hard stuff is done. To give an example a few years back I had a KTM Freeride. 99kg, 350 4 stroke with half the usual KTM 350 power in a 50/50 enduro/trials type bike. I put a larger 140 rear on it (I think the usual was a 120) because I had a tyre left over from my Husaberg FE350. It totally removed the nimble handling and was only useful in a straight line.

For sure running lower pressure than the road is recommended but go too low and your advantage is limited to a certain terrain. Gravel roads will be skatey regardless of the tyre but 170 is too big and if you drop the pressure that footprint will get even wider.
Here is a comparison of the stock 160/60-17 vs a 170/60-17:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=160-60r17-170-60r17

160/60-17 170/60-17 Difference
Diameter inches (mm) 24.56 (623.8) 25.03 (635.8) 0.47 (12) 1.9%
Width inches (mm) 6.3 (160) 6.69 (170) 0.39(10) 6.3%
Circum. inches (mm) 77.15 (1959.73) 78.64 (1997.42) 1.48 (37.7) 1.9%
Sidewall Height inches (mm) 3.78 (96) 4.02 (102) 0.24 (6) 6.3%
Revolutions per mile (km) 821.21 (510.27) 805.71 (500.64) -15.5 (-9.63) -1.9%

How can you say it's too big? The difference is at the greatest 6%. Width alone is LESS than 1/2" wider; .39
 

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All I'm saying is the bigger you go on the rear on the dirt (and the road too for that matter) any perceived benefit of traction is offset by an adverse affect on steering. The faster you go the bigger the affect. If you don't believe that's fine but go buy a 150 and a 170 and tell me which is best on dirt after trying both. Ideally the 150 should be mounted on a 4.25 rim but that is a whole other issue.

Not all tyres are measure equally either as some brands will be wider or narrower at a given size ie 160 than another brand. Something else to factor in to your equation.
 

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So given your response you have tried both sizes on a bike? I just don't buy it that a tire .39" wider than stock will make that much of a difference on or off road. Enough so I've just ordered a Kenda Big Block 170/60-17 ? to actually test the theory.
 

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Did you read my post above? I've tried wider tyres on a bike which normally runs narrower tyres and the affect was to slow down the steering and have grip affect (push) the front. The same on road bikes. I had a 92 Ducati 900SS which had a 5.5 inch rim yet used a 170 tyre instead of the 180 most were using. Why? The lightweight Ducati just didn't have the power to necessitate a wider tyre. A narrow tyre will always provide quicker steering and a bike will require chassis adjustment to facilitate the wider tyres needed for more power or fashion (ie Ducati Diavlo)

LMGTFY

Having said all this by putting a 170 tyre on a 4.5 inch rim you will squeeze the tyre in to a pointier shape and reduce your contact patch in respect to the tyre. That is you will change the profile by using a rim which is a bit small for a 170. This is just my 2c worth. Ask an expert
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just an overdue update. I have put the 170/60 rear and I love it. No noticeable handling change, got probably 2000km more on mileage (flatter profile weras less the center of course). I really had to change the 150/70 at 11000km. This 170/60 is at 11000km and probably still has 2000km left before it gets as worn as the former 150/70.

And I use 35psi, not the insane 39 I was putting on the previous 150/70.
So it may be the pressure, more that the ptofile, that increased mileage, du to more support fom the sides.
 
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