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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I wanted to share some thoughts I had relating to oil in my new 2012 Versys. I've done more oil changes than what most would consider necessary (and I am someone who is against overly frequent changes, figure that). A little background first: I dumped the FF (factory fill) at 150 miles after some "heavy load" riding, but still in the lower RPMs. Replaced it with Shell T6 5W-40 (JASO MA approved). I then changed it again with T6 at 1400 miles. Having now just broken the 2000 mile mark, I dumped the T6 and replaced it with what will be my now permanent oil (probably for 4-5,000 miles).

A couple of observations:

-The Amsoil is quieter. I don't know what else to say. Having filled twice with T6, and having those fills dumped rather early, I know what it sounds like. The sound of the engine is noticeably a bit quieter in the warm-up phase. My best guess is that this is more related to changing from 5W-40 to 10W-40 (it's cold in Flagstaff!).

-Amsoil does not create bubbles in the oil. After getting the bike to operating temp and riding around, looking through the glass oil level checker, there were always TONS of bubbles floating around in the T6. It was almost like foam, and it worried me a bit. The T6 is JASO MA approved however, so it can't be all that bad. Since putting in the Amsoil earlier today, I went on a 20 mile varied ride (gentle warmup, steady speeds with a few hard high-RPM accelerations). There were virtually no bubbles or foam whatsoever. It looked like completely unshaken oil.

I feel as if the Amsoil 10W-40 MCF is a much higher-quality oil. It's expensive, but I'm willing to pay for it considering I only need less than 3 quarts. I'm also going to be extending the oil drain interval on it. My car on the other hand (6+ quarts) will still get cheap Wally Mart Mobil 1... :D

Anyone else running Amsoil in their V?

I approve! :thumb:
 

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After break in i went with Repsol Semi-Synthetic thats what i had in the bike when i rode from Texas to California last summer. The bike ran great and the transmission was smoother. Then went to Royal Purple for a short peroid then Switched over to Amsoil 10-40 and that what i plan on keeping in it. I'm getting better mileage and the bike runs smoother with the Amsoil.
 

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At the risk of participating in an oil thread...

T6 is also known as Rotella-T, it also comes in 15w-40, which is a dino oil. The one you speak of is a synthetic (you probably knew that already).

I've used amsoil as well as Mobil 1 mx4t (or just called 4T now - it's labeled as a motorcycle racing oil). Both brands are expensive and fully synthetic, not blends.

I followed posts by a guy who tests oils for a living. In both Diesel and Gas engines. Many times these engines were run until they gave up and seized, put under extreme pressure to determine the effectiveness of the oils used.

Obviously, some big companies have a lot of money to spend.

He always gave very high marks to Rotella, Amsoil and MX4T. That's all I needed to know. That's what I buy, then I ride :)

(my bet is that most if not all of the improvements you're observing are due to the difference in viscosity, and fresh oil).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would happily use the T6 again. I actually was going to try the Mobil 4T, but I got a bit of a deal on the Amsoil. While I admit the "quietness" is more subjective, the bubbles in the oil is different because of the oil. I noticed the bubbles in fresh T6.

I think this Amsoil, Mobil 4T, and the Shell T6 will be the oils for my bike. Shell is way less expensive, but I like the idea of a motorcycle-specific oil over the wide application T6 (diesel trucks, construction equipment, passenger cars, etc).
 

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I'm using Rotella 15-40 and have changed oil twice. About 650 miles on bike so far. Will go to the 4T at 1500 miles.

Don't notice any bubbles at all. Absolutely none, and sure of that, I check the level quite frequently...

Yeah I agree, given how little oil is needed for the V, it's not too bad to go with the best oil(s) available. Now my FJR... that was 50 bucks ea time, plus filter, that kind of hurt!
 

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Amsoil is like the Amway of oils with multi tier marketing. You can become a dealer for an annual fee and buy at greatly reduced prices or buy at full price from a "dealer". For me this is a bit of a turn off as is their evangelical marketing, again similar to Amway. From what I have read there is not really a great difference in synthetic oils other than motorcycle rated oils do not have anti friction modifiers (JASO MA approved) so as not to mess up the wet clutch's operation. There is a lot bigger difference in the quality of oil filters. Oils with an "energy saving" logo have anti friction modifiers added that will cause the wet (oil immersed) clutch to slip and eventually burn out.

I have 200K on my VW diesel and I use Castrol Synthetic 5w-40 which I change every 16,000km (9600 miles as per manufacturer), buy it because it is the cheapest synthetic with a diesel rating, and it does not burn a drop of oil. Also use it in the bike with no issues. The low number just means it flows better when cold. A 10w-40 and 5w-40 oil should behave the same a operating temps.
 

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Mobil 4T for me. Easy to find at any Autozone and since we only need 2 quarts it is relatively cheap. I use it in my DRZ400 as well which suffered a busted water pump after a fall. I had to ride with no coolant for several miles which had to be hard on the motor. I went ahead and did a big bore kit at the same time that I had the water pump fixed and the mechanic said the motor looked brand new, not what he was expecting at all.
 

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Good observation on the bubbles, you have been paying attention and one that is important. An oil that foams up will not give the proper protection when the air bubbles replaces the oil film when there is metal to metal surface contact. There are specific MCO that do bubble up (cheap oils), and is not suitable for any bikes particularly the high revving supersports 4 cylinders.

I've tried a semi synthetic Diesel oil that is JASO MA rated, Petro Canada Duron XL 15W40, good and smooth but last about 4k km tops. Currently on Motul H-100 4T 10W40, fully synthetic and has just gone 1100km on it. So far so good. Quiet engine, smooth shifts.

Amsoil is no doubt a very good oil but the price is on the high side. Can't find Mobil 4T fully synthetics in my area.
 

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Mobil 4T for me. Easy to find at any Autozone and since we only need 2 quarts it is relatively cheap. I use it in my DRZ400 as well which suffered a busted water pump after a fall. I had to ride with no coolant for several miles which had to be hard on the motor. I went ahead and did a big bore kit at the same time that I had the water pump fixed and the mechanic said the motor looked brand new, not what he was expecting at all.
That sounds a lot like some of the stories I read when following that Oil guy I mentioned above.

Motorcycle engines are tough on oil. It goes through the transmission and the gearing. Oil's shear down over time. And it's well accepted that full synthetics are much less susceptible to shearing.

That's my story, and I'm sticking with it ;)
 

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Right after shutting down the engine on just about every bike I have owned and most every oil I have used I have noticed a few bubbles for a short time in the sight glass and I think this is normal right after shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The (rather large and noticeable) bubbles I saw were always while the engine was on after some riding. The Amsoil I got was about $11 per quart, which isn't bad considering both my local Walmarts carry the Mobil 1 4T for about $10 per quart. Not a big difference there.
 

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Amsoil is a good oil from all I've ever read. I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 conventional in a 1975 Honda 400F and I'm putting Castrol Syntec 10W-40 synthetic in the Versys. The Syntec was $6.50 at Pep Boys and I only needed 2 so I thought what the heck. Putting synthetic in a former 1982 Vision definitely produced better shifting. I'm hoping for the same in the Versys. If synthetic produces better shifting I think it's worth it. Otherwise not.
 

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From what I have read oil will only foam if you over fill it. This is because if the oil level is too high the spinning crank shaft will touch the surface of the oil and froth it, otherwise a non issue with any oil.
 

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I like my Amsoil AFF 0W-40. It is a true PAO Group IV synthetic, is more resistant to foaming and is superior in quality compared to Shell's Rotella T6... Ordering through http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with secret promo code, I pay about 40% less than from Canadian Tire (same price I would pay for T6), and it's at my door in a couple days.

http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/aff.htm

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-52.pdf
 

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From what I have read oil will only foam if you over fill it. This is because if the oil level is too high the spinning crank shaft will touch the surface of the oil and froth it, otherwise a non issue with any oil.

I have read the same. I once saw this on my SV650 and used less oil. The problem went away.
 

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I can't see any oil in my sight glass when the motor is running, only when the motor is turned off. If you see oil in the sight glass when it's running maybe it's over full.
 
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