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Discussion Starter #1
Not trying to start another mirror vibration thread, but that is the reason I'm looking at replacing handlebar. I just replaced stock mirrors with Tuono mirrors and although the vibes are reduced, the left mirror is still bad at 4000~ 5000 rpm. I have mirror extenders and OEM bar end weights.

Question is, have you bought aluminum bar, and if so, what brand and how much better is it than stock steel in reducing vibration?

I'm not interested in trying to fix vibes with weights, caulking in mirror etc so let's not rehash those tired threads.:D
 

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When I had my Honda 919 I put 1-1/8" handlebar adapters on and went with the oversize motocross bars. Height ended up about the same but I wanted less pull-back. I think I went with the Universal brand. I'd say stop by a local shop and just find a bar with the rise and pull-back that feels good to you. I think the oversize bar adapters were made by Moose Racing. The 919 wasn't really a buzz-bike, and I noticed little, if any, decrease. But they sure looked cool! But I am contemplating doing the same to my Versys. It's only money.
 

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No need for any gimmicks and added weight with tapered aluminum handlebars which are also stronger and lighter... I don't even feel the need for bar-end weights with my Tag Metals tapered aluminum handlebars (with 7/8" to 1-1/8" fat-bar adapter such as Rox) and Zeta hand guards. No numbing vibrations to speak of, and mirror image is clear. Aluminum absorbs much more vibration than steel.
You could also get a 7/8" aluminum street handlebar, without the need for adapters.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Renthal-7-8-Street-Handlebars-High-Silver-25-7561S-/280754230687?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415e41959f&vxp=mtr
 

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Renthal's Street High would be just a bit higher than stock.
Stock bars are said to be at:

Width - ~775mm
Rise - ~140mm
Sweep - ~90mm
 

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Those old measurements were from Gustavo... I don't have my original handlebars anymore.

Those numbers on the OEM bar didn't look quite right to me so I just got back from pulling the bar off my '08 on doing my own measurements.

Now, based on ProTaper's description of Height, Width, Rise & Sweep, these are my numbers:


A = 760 (Width)
B = 130 (Height)
C = 75 (Rise)

D = 190 (center to center where the OE bars are knurled = 85)
E = 90 (Sweep)

All measurements were made as close as possible from center to center. So, depending on how you measured, the numbers may/will be different.

Some of my pictures - it doesn't work well since pictures are not 3D and what your eyes see vs. what the camera sees is pretty different.
 

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I have some experience in this topic.

I switched out to the Pro Taper Seven Eights ATV HIGH.

I am a pretty tall guy and even for me the ATV high bar is a little too high. I would recommend most people look at the ATV Mid.

I am currently using this bar with the supplied crossbar (stiffener?).
I have also done some work to adapt the stock bar ends onto the aftermarket Pro Taper bar.

IMHO the vibration reduction was very minimal. I still have considerable vibration at cruising speeds. However while I find the mirror vibration annoying, I was not on a mission to kill vibration. You may have better results than me because you will be using mirror extenders and what not.

Also worth noting is that if you remove the crossbar you will most likely get better results. I like having the crossbar on because it provides more bar strength and provides a nice mounting location for GPS.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have some experience in this topic.

I switched out to the Pro Taper Seven Eights ATV HIGH.

I am a pretty tall guy and even for me the ATV high bar is a little too high. I would recommend most people look at the ATV Mid.

I am currently using this bar with the supplied crossbar (stiffener?).
I have also done some work to adapt the stock bar ends onto the aftermarket Pro Taper bar.

IMHO the vibration reduction was very minimal. I still have considerable vibration at cruising speeds. However while I find the mirror vibration annoying, I was not on a mission to kill vibration. You may have better results than me because you will be using mirror extenders and what not.

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Thank you, that is the info I'm looking for. I rather suspected that an aluminum bar alone would not make a considerable difference in vibration level.

The mirror extenders increase mirror vibration in my view; extend a shaking bar and measure the distance traveled at the end. It will increase the longer it is of course, and I accept the trade off for a rear view of the road, not of my shoulder. I'm not really on a mission to end mirror shake totally, it's likely an impossible mission, and I was simply curious about the difference in metals.

I really should know better: want a real bone shaker parallel twin? Try a Norton Atlas (we don't need no stinking additional weight counter-balancers and besides, only real men ride these bikes). Maybe you prefer a single cylinder thumper? I recommend a Matchless G80-CS or a BSA Gold Star. Those classics can blur your vision (but oh my, they sure were easy to look at and fun to ride)
 

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I have some experience in this topic.

I switched out to the Pro Taper Seven Eights ATV HIGH.

I am a pretty tall guy and even for me the ATV high bar is a little too high. I would recommend most people look at the ATV Mid.

I am currently using this bar with the supplied crossbar (stiffener?).
I have also done some work to adapt the stock bar ends onto the aftermarket Pro Taper bar.

IMHO the vibration reduction was very minimal. I still have considerable vibration at cruising speeds. However while I find the mirror vibration annoying, I was not on a mission to kill vibration. You may have better results than me because you will be using mirror extenders and what not.

Also worth noting is that if you remove the crossbar you will most likely get better results. I like having the crossbar on because it provides more bar strength and provides a nice mounting location for GPS.

Good luck.
Any problem with brake, throttle, clutch lines and other control cable?
Any picture with the atv high will be appreciated.

cheers,
 

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I have the stock bars and minimal vibration. If vibration is an issue I would suggest doing a throttle body sync and possibly a valve adjustment (before the synch). Do the sync at 4-5K RPM. This will noticeably reduce vibration if it is off.
 

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I got bar end mirrors, and they really cut down on vibrarion. I think the mirror arms amplify the vibrations. however, you active have to look into them, you probably won't notice anything happening there otherwise (besides lights in the dark). It also makes lane splitting easier: Only one thing to worry about at each end.
 

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I have recently discovered that a simple, cheap and easy solution to vibes is to fill the bar with something like #8 lead bird shot, seal it in with caulking. Made a huge difference on my Triumph, and would have made a huge difference on my old Versys.
 

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I used a Barsnake on my 2000 Husky SM610 motard (a lot of thump!), however I read somewhere that the stock Versys bar is not open end to end. Barsnake makes a fluid filler called Barspit, but it seems to be out of stock, and has been for some time.

Perhaps getting a replacement bar that is open all the way through AND a Barsnake might just do the trick!

http://www.barsnake.com/
 
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