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Hello fellow versys dudes/dudetts

I have a very stock 2009 versys that runs pretty well when you ride it a bit on the hard side, but when cruising in town traffic i find it a bit rough on and off throttle,, have anyone felt the same and what can be done about it ? Or is a PC the only thing that works ?

/Mike
 

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Yep... same thing here... not always but quite often. In highway it runs incredible but sometimes fails in low RMPs. I thought it was something about the gasoline here in Peru but looks like it may be something else...
 

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The stock lean stumble is worst near 2800 rpm...

Instead of going through the throuble of measuring TPS output voltage, you can try rotating your main throttle sensor by almost 1mm by relating to the green index mark. You can then rotate subthrottle sensor also counterclockwise to reduce cold-engine fast-idle rpm if desired...

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1412

Look at the main (grey) throttle sensor's green alignment mark on its front from near your front left flasher, and note how it ligns up. Loosen sensor screw with T25 Torx tool. Rotate sensor counterclockwise by about half a millimeter as seen on pic. Adjust, then tighten Torx screw. Main throttle sensor's new position:



Main throttle sensor Torx screw:



Fast idle may then be higher. You can rotate subthrottle sensor (black, just above main throttle sensor) also counterclockwise with T25 Torx screw to reduce cold fast-idle rpm. I rotated mine to its maximum counterclockwise position, to which it was already near. Subthrottle sensor's new position:



This also smooths out throttle response at low speeds. The left TB's left IAP sensor hose fitting bore is larger than in the two TB vacuum access fittings. A 6" long, 1/8" ID hose on both TB vacuum access fittings which originally had the rubber caps on, works perfectly.



According to service manual:

"Throttle Grip Free Play: 2-3 mm
If the throttle grip doesn’t return properly, check the throttle cable routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then lubricate the throttle cable.
To adjust, loosen the locknut at the upper end of the accelerator cable. (under throttle grip) Turn the adjuster in completely so as to give the throttle grip plenty of play. Loosen the locknut at the middle of the decelerator cable. (see pic) Turn the adjuster until there is no play when the throttle grip is completely closed. Tighten the locknut. Turn the accelerator cable adjuster until the proper amount of throttle grip free play is obtained. Tighten the locknut."

You can easily pull the mid-cable adjuster that runs over the engine, adjust it then check with cable back up in its natural position. Shown here with locknut loosened and backed up to the right:

 

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Invader, thank you for your help on this but I wanted to know if this mods rest performance at high revs/high speed?
 

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Invader, thank you for your help on this but I wanted to know if this mods rest performance at high revs/high speed?
The main throttle sensor adjustment and vacuum hose mod do not affect performance at any rpm or at any speed... The main throttle sensor voltage output is set a bit low at the factory, resulting in a lean low end especially near 2800 rpm, probably to pass emission regulations. Setting it up to spec as per service manual improves driveability while reducing backfiring tendency.
 

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You know... I do what you recommend using the "eye" and the marks but the moto was worst than before... bad move, so I prepare my wires and adapters and proceed to do it "correctly"... and using the manual!

Standard Input Voltage at Sensor = 4.75V to 5.25V
I set it at 5.06V
Standard Output Voltage at Sensor:
1.005V to 1.035V at idle throttle opening = I set it at 1.028V
4.2V to 4.4V at full throttle opening = I set it at 4.32V

I will try my moto tomorrow morning but, Do you think my number are right?
Thanks for your help!
 

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My original full throttle voltage output was at 4.03V. I set it at 4.2V which resulted in 1.09V at idle... Adjusting the full throttle setting directly affects idle setting, so I left it at 4.2V. Engine has to be warmed up to have idle down to normal operating position.

Finally got the slow speed issues fixed today. I had previously set the TPS to the upper end of the Kawi spec, but it made no discernible difference. Today I advanced the TPS a bit further (didn't set it with a multimeter, just set it by seat of the pants) and that pretty much cured everything I didn't like about throttle response. It got rid of the 2500-3800 rpm miss, the pop that sometimes occured when rolling back on the throttle after a decel, and all of the low speed jerkiness. I'm not feeling the need for a tuner now.

You had it nailed Invader, I just didn't take it far enough the first couple of times I messed with it. Thanks!
 

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As you may have also noticed, input voltage can change in steps, which in turn affects output voltage readings.

...Now that it's been sitting out of the cold for a while, maximum throttle reading is back up to 4.21 V and idle at 1.1 V (meter '+' on bottom, meter '-' on top), with input voltage (meter '+' on middle, meter '-' on top) now at 4.99 V (standard: 4.75 - 5.25 V), so no need to re-adjust again... With the maximum throttle opening voltage between standard 4.2 and 4.4 V, idle voltage is higher than standard 1.005 to 1.035 V.
... Input voltage dropped to 4.76 V from 4.99 V soon after I stopped it (and even after I restarted it, while running or not), which then gave me 0.994 V idle and 4.04 V max. Battery was at 11.98 V so I put a 1 amp charger on it for a bit, which brought it up to 12.72 V off, then 12.44 V creeping down to 12.4 V as I checked TPS voltage again with ignition on. Input voltage was still ticked down to steady 4.76 V yielding 4.04 V output at max throttle, with idle voltage already pushed up a bit by fast idle cam. It was still the same after a full battery charge...

I did have to set secondary TPS to maximum counterclockwise position to back off fast idle cam, and idle is backed off a bit, as my main TPS was in fact adjusted up to 4.22 V max opening with input at 4.99 V.
 

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You know... I do what you recommend using the "eye" and the marks but the moto was worst than before... bad move, so I prepare my wires and adapters and proceed to do it "correctly"... and using the manual!

Standard Input Voltage at Sensor = 4.75V to 5.25V
I set it at 5.06V
Standard Output Voltage at Sensor:
1.005V to 1.035V at idle throttle opening = I set it at 1.028V
4.2V to 4.4V at full throttle opening = I set it at 4.32V

I will try my moto tomorrow morning but, Do you think my number are right?
Thanks for your help!
So what was the voltage output after you set it by eye, before adjusting it to 1.028V and 4.32V? After adjusting your idle voltage output to 1.028V, did you adjust it again to have 4.32V at full throttle (which will have changed your idle voltage)? Is your idle voltage now higher than 1.028V, with 4.32V at full throttle? Is your input voltage still at 5.06V?
 

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I am no motorcycle mechanic, but her's my two cents.
Kurt and invader, you both are at two different elevations!
I think elevation will effect the TB final position.
It does with carberators, and jetting sizes.
When I ask for advice on jetting, I take the advice thats nearest my own elevation. Which is about 230FT above sea level. Jetting that works in Colorado will not work as well, in Florida.
 

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Lima Peru is at 5080' asl, and I'm at 750' asl. Gasoline quality and formulation also varies around the planet... The IAP (inlet air pressure) sensor does allow some compensation for varying atmospheric pressure and/or elevation.
 

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Lima Peru is at 5080' asl, and I'm at 750' asl. Gasoline quality and formulation also varies around the planet... The IAP (inlet air pressure) sensor does allow some compensation for varying atmospheric pressure and/or elevation.
Yes it would allow for, Some, compensation.
Not, sure it will allow that much, though.
Anyone here nearer to kurt's elevation want to chime in?
 

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Well... here in Lima we are at almost sea level so I think that's not the problem... it gets high when you climb up to the mountains (our "Sierra"). You can go to 16,500 feet but let me tell you that the Versys handle high altitudes very good. I turns a little "slow" but never fails.
About the readings when I make the first changes and the moto gets awfull...no, I did not take any measurement :thumbdown:
But with my actual numbers the bike is running very good. Maybe one of these days I will try to get a little more high values to see if I feel any extra improvement...
 

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...About the readings when I make the first changes and the moto gets awfull...no, I did not take any measurement :thumbdown:
But with my actual numbers the bike is running very good. Maybe one of these days I will try to get a little more high values to see if I feel any extra improvement...
So is your mark on main throttle sensor now just a bit counterclockwise from stock like on my photo? Did you have it rotated more or less counterclockwise before measuring voltage output when you set it by eye?
Did you adjust the maximum throttle voltage output after you adjusted the idle voltage output? Is your idle voltage not higher than 1.028V now, with maximum throttle set at 4.32V (with 5.06V input)?
 

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Let me check that info Invader... I remember that the factory mark was very thick so I couldn't see clearly the before/after positions. I will do that as soon as I return from US... I'm traveling to Tampa and then Ft. Lauderdale tomorrow night.
 

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I just did the TPS adjustments you described-the PO did the balance hose already, and the bike feels so good it's sooo much more enjoyable to ride now. I just eye balled the adjustments and thought it would be easy to go back to the original settings if it didn't work. But I'd say this is one of the best ideas I've ever seen on an owners' forum. Before, in city riding (this is my errand bike) if the rpm's dropped even close to 3000 it would shake and shudder like a Harley. Now it's smooth as silk even down to 2500 rpm and will pull cleanly from that rpm. It also took care of any popping on deceleration coming from the Arrow slipon I had installed. Love it!
 

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Hey all,

Any1 knows what about the Gen2 bikes 2010 + would they be gaining anything from doing this ? and if so what would be the recommended change (how much to move it) ?
 
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