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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After 10,000 miles on my 08 Versys, I decided to finally add an accessory wiring harness for all the bits and pieces I have accumulated. I had installed the Wally Mart “Optronics” driving lights back at 3.000 miles direct wired to the battery with a dash mounted switch, only to have the wiring connectors come loose, bulbs blow, and then the switch gave out during a very wet night drive, I pulled the lights off for the 7,500 mile servicing and decided not to put them back on until I sorted out the wiring.

I had also acquired a Garmin Nuvi 265WT GPS that I mounted on the dash using Speedy’s Tom-Tom mount and a RAM ball arm and cradle. I had purchased a 12V wiring harness for the Nuvi (not the same as the normally included 12V socket) and needed to install it too.

I also had need of some accessory 12V sockets to charge my phone, Scala Rider Q2-FM headset, and other personal electronics. I also wanted some room to add heated grips and upgrade the horn at some point.

So here is what I did:

(1) Removed the windscreen, seat and depanneled both sides of the Versys from the seat forward.

(2) I used spiral wrap over the wires and a extra large poly “pill” bottle mounted with stick on cable tie mounts, and cable ties to mount the Garmin 12V harness on the left side of the tank, the harness has a transformer and capacitor/filter in line so that is what went in the pill bottle:


I then ran the Nuvi harness back to the seat area under the tank and along the frame. The GPS side of the harness went into the console and out through the top of the console over the Speedy mount and into the back of the GPS cradle.

Next I put in the console 12V socket. Using a SealLink “Marine Grade” 12V socket I [badly-the bit walked when it broke through the plastic] cut a hole in the right side of the dash for the socket and then used the included cover plate to reinforce the socket mount and more importantly cover up the mess I made of cutting the hole.

I used 14 AWG marine grade wire, spiral wrapped, to run from the seat are along the right side of the tank through the console (I installed a grommet in the handy precut hole in the console/fairing frame) to the socket.


I cable-tied the wires to the console/fairing frame and to the frame going back to the seat. Here is the console view:


Next I built my own harness for the “Optronics” driving lights. Using 16 AWG marine grade wire, spiral wrapped again, and some handy 3M 3-Wire connectors (to replace the plug & socket of the original harness) I remounted my driving lights, replaced the switch on the console with a LED rocker switch (I still need to upgrade it to a weather proof switch) on the left side of the console panel and ran the wires back along the right side of the frame to the seat are, cable tied to the frame and Kawasaki harness.

The 3 items on the console, GPS, Driving lights, 12V socket were to be switched (powered only when the key was ON).

Next I removed the tool roll and cut another hole (not quite as bad as the console hole but ugly) in the U-lock “mount” formed in the under seat tray to install another 12V socket. Again using a SeaLink Marine Grade 12V socket, 14AWG marine grade wires and spiral wrap, I planed to have this socket always ON so that I could charge items while parked (keeping them locked in my sidecase for instance). The socket is in the upper right.


This picture also shows what was going to power all these new items, a Fuzeblock FZ-1 that I mounted where the tool roll would go.

The Fuzeblock is pretty slick having an integrated relay, 6 outputs and the ability to individually select the output as either switched or un-switched just by moving the fuse position. It is also a third of the size of the Blue Sea box (no relay) that I had originally purchased for this project. I used marine Velcro to mount the Fuzeblock to the tray due to the wheel hump.

Then I cut, stripped (kudos’ to the Gardner Bender GS-394 auto wire stripper!) and installed all the new wires into the Fuzeblock.


I installed a 30A inline fuse from the battery to the 12V input on the FZ-1. I ran the chassis ground to the screw at the back of the seat by the taillight and ran the FZ-1 relay trigger wire to a 2 wire connecter (black/yellow & red wire pair) for the license plate light using the red wire as the trigger (see photo).


Installed the FZ-1 cover, reinstalled the tool roll (now relocated to the back of the seat compartment where the safety check decal is and what do you know, everything actually worked 1st time when I powered it up.

Repanneled the bike and I am back on the road.
 

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Hey A2RON... this is great info. One question, where did you find the 12V nuvi wiring harness? I've got a nuvi 750, and haven't had any luch finding anything but the regular 12V cig adapter cable...
 

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Very clean wiring and install.

Regarding the pill bottle innards. Are you plugging the male end of the Garmin power harness into a female 12V socket? If so, I have tried this on a previous bike, having nothing but trouble retaining a solid connection. I finally gave up and bought a Zumo.

Also, the fuse block looks pretty cool, but is the integrated relay easily replaced? Relays can and do fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey A2RON... this is great info. One question, where did you find the 12V nuvi wiring harness? I've got a nuvi 750, and haven't had any luch finding anything but the regular 12V cig adapter cable...
Very clean wiring and install.

Regarding the pill bottle innards. Are you plugging the male end of the Garmin power harness into a female 12V socket? If so, I have tried this on a previous bike, having nothing but trouble retaining a solid connection. I finally gave up and bought a Zumo.

Also, the fuse block looks pretty cool, but is the integrated relay easily replaced? Relays can and do fail.
I am using the Garmin direct wire harness from the Garmin Mounting Cradle kit (Garmin Cradle kit 010-11143-07) that I picked up from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-010-11143-07-Mounting-Cradle/dp/B001CX4INE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1256384045&sr=8-1

The cable is for direct wire connection to a 12V source, it's not the female 12V plug-in adapter that comes with most Nuvi units.

The cable itself, I cut the included in-line fuse and pigtails, so I could lenghten it to attach to the Fuzeblock. I used the 1 amp Garmin fuse from the cut-off in-line pigtail in the Fuzeblock.

Unfortunately I didn't realize that Garmin has 2 Nuvi 265's, the cradle in the kit didn't fit my 265WT (W=wide screen) so I ended up buying a another cradle from GPS City (where I also bought my Ram-Mount pieces).

GPS City ( http://www.gpscity.com/ )also carries direct wire harnesses for the Garmin units.
 

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Also, the fuse block looks pretty cool, but is the integrated relay easily replaced? Relays can and do fail.
I found the answer to my question at fuzeblock.com. The relay is replaceable by de-soldering it from the board and replacing it with a new one. This is a deal-breaker for me. Source out a new relay, then solder it in? No way! However, I really like the ability to make the accessories constant-on instead of relay-triggered by simply moving the fuses. This allows you to still power a relay-triggered accessory even if the relay fails by relocating the fuse.

Is the Relay Replaceable?
The relay is replaceable by de-soldering the relay and replacing it with a new one.

If the relay fails on the road, the best suggestion is to move the fuses from the switched position to the constant position to get home. Make sure that you power off any devices when turning off the bike at that point. Once home you can work on replacing the relay.

The relay chosen for the fuse block is a common relay used in automotives, furnaces and industrial kitchen appliances. It is made to withstand heat, humidity and vibration. It is also meant to be cycled thousands of times and for the contacts to be closed for long periods of time. It's a high and long-duty cycle relay. Some relays that can handle the same or more amperage (and are smaller) are typically used for short duration applications such as door locks and power windows. However they cannot withstand long durations in a high current situation because they simply can't dissipate the heat.

Although no relay is perfect the fuse block relay is one of the most durable PC flush mount relays available today which is the reason it is made by several manufacturers. It wasn't a random choice and the relay was chosen for its low profile and its ability to handle long duty cycles.
 

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How do you connect the wires to the battery terminals?
Ring terminals? I don't know yet how is the connection to the terminals...

I bought a Fuzeblock and I intend to install it soon.

thx!
 

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Yeah, I believe they're called something like ring terminals or ring connectors. Ring something anyways, with a hole diameter of aboouutt.. 5 mm or somewhat larger. Lift off the red/black rubber sheating, unscrew the screw, thread ring on screw or whatever, and rescrew screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I actually used "hook" shaped crimp connectors for the battery lead to the FZ-1, I didn't want to have to remove the battery screw completely to connect the new wire (or remove it if I had too). They are available at autoparts stores and probably most Walmarts (at least when I put this together).
 

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I finally started to plan the installation of the Fuzeblock...:)

it is possible to install it under the left fairing? there is a lot of space there and I have all my needs in front of the bike... I would have the wires much shorter...
I'm afraid of some water that might get in there...

Anybody did this??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've now got 49,000 miles on the bike and a couple of recommendations as to placements based on experience.

(1) Mounting anything to the side fairing(s) or side fairing bolts is a PIA for servicing.

I'm still halfheartedly searching for a new way to mount my driving lights so I don't have to pull them off to pull the fairing. I wouldn't recommend mounting the fuzeblock here as it is not well protected from rain & the occasional bike washing and it would make bike servicing a real pain when pulling the fairings or tank. Underseat is still probably the best place from element protection and out-of-the-way'ness. Your wiring is longer but the run to the battery is the shortest to power the fuzeblock (recommended).

(2) Add a USB powerport instead of the 12V socket on the dash.

I have a dedicated 12V-5V supply for my GPS but I installed a 5V-1A USB power socket on my dash that I use to power my cell phone and backup for the GPS. The 12V USB adapters either caught rain, vibrated loose, or were blown loose and I rarely use the dash 12V socket anymore. You can charge almost any consumer electronic device with the USB port now. You can buy weather resistant power supplies and USB cables making life much easier.

Keep a separate 12V socket to power air compressors/heated gear......back by the seat is good (my underseat is a little too out of the way if I've got gear bags on the seat.)


Still no problems with the fuzeblock, I put one on my son's VStrom as well.
 

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Thx A2ron for the info.

How many times did you change a fuse on fuzeblock?

I want to look for a waterproof box to put fuzeblock in under the left fairing.. with Velcro so I can pull it out just enough to change a fuse just in case..
I read about the moisture problem so I would leave 2 holes so the moisture can go out..I'm looking for a good solution..
thx
 

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I'm planning on trying out the unit that Twisted Throttle is selling now. It looks like the Fuzeblock relabeled (to me at least). It will go under the seat since I've given up on keeping a toolkit there with the stuff I've got installed already. So far it's a dual Heat Troller but I'd like to add a GPS through the Bags Connection tankring and maybe the D1 lights.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/7192/652/
 
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