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Discussion Starter #1
So I took my inaugural ride today on my 2017 650 LT. Ride was to start the engine break-in process.

I decided to follow, more or less, this method:

How To: Break In A New Motorcycle Engine | RideApart

Some comments after riding 120 miles today.

- wow, I really like this bike

- at 4,500 rpms I could hear a rattle/buzz from the right hand guard; trying to figure out where and why this is happening

- during my deceleration after opening it up for a short burst I would hear this “clicking” from below, it’s so hard to describe but almost like keys or something

- from idle to about 4k rpms the bike sounds like a scooter, it’s so quiet; not a bad thing just humored me a bit since I’m coming from a HD Forty-Eight with Screamin’ Eagle pipes

- definitely need a lowering link (ordered this evening from Motowerk)

- I now know what the “ball slam” is with this seat; yeah, may need to do something about that in the future

- wow, I really like this bike

One picture during the ride and another with the bags off this afternoon. I really, REALLY, like the titanium color. Well done Kawasaki.

I can’t wait to get the correct side case top covers and trim pieces. On my bike they are black, they should be titanium as seen on Kawi’s website.



 

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OR get two longer bolts (45mm), 12 washers, and a piece of scrap steel to raise the front of your seat about 9/16".







WORKS, and it's ALMOST FREE!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks fasteddie...

Yeah, after today's ride (cleared 200 total) I do think I need to look into that and give it a try.

Last night I removed the Kawi stickers and then added the spools after my ride today.







.
 

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Think about a Seat Concepts cover and foam kit... really flattens that sucker out and brings up the front.

Your butt will appreciate it!
 
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Glad you like it!! I had the same buzz during my first 600 miles during break in. Not too sure why. I did take of my guards and put on some oxford heated grips, and since putting them back on they have not buzzed. I do notice the bike is buzzy around 5500 rpm's but I think it is just the bike. Just like how every set of car tires usually has a slight hum for a set 1-2 mph somewhere in its range.
 

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All normal except the ball slam. Try engaging your legs more when riding. This isn't a cruiser or a touring bike. Squeeze the tank with your thighs and sit your upper body slightly leaned forward like the seat intends for you to do. Now you are ready to control the bike instead of just being along for the ride.
I must be doing something wrong. My twins just clang off the tank with a bell-like ringing sound... I did notice some new tank dents as a result though...
 

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RideApart missed the 3rd option: Motoman's break in.. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

This is a controversial break-in, but I've used it on my last four bikes, with *very* good short and long term results (plus, if your ride from the dealer is > 40 miles, you're done w/ the break in by the time you get home). If you put your bike on a dyno right after buying it, that'll basically break it in using this method as well. Read the entire article...
For those that say "stick to manufacturer's procedure," that's basically CYA for them. Want proof, take a look at their "recommended shift points." That's also CYA... but NO ONE uses those shift points.

As for the seat, I've used Sargents on my last few bikes. Gets rid of ball slam, they're great for long rides, and it's just a well made seat.

Btw, great color... If that was available when I bought my 2015, I'd be riding a Titanium bike...
 
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RideApart missed the 3rd option: Motoman's break in.. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

This is a controversial break-in, but I've used it on my last four bikes, with *very* good short and long term results (plus, if your ride from the dealer is > 40 miles, you're done w/ the break in by the time you get home). If you put your bike on a dyno right after buying it, that'll basically break it in using this method as well. Read the entire article...
For those that say "stick to manufacturer's procedure," that's basically CYA for them. Want proof, take a look at their "recommended shift points." That's also CYA... but NO ONE uses those shift points.

As for the seat, I've used Sargents on my last few bikes. Gets rid of ball slam, they're great for long rides, and it's just a well made seat.

Btw, great color... If that was available when I bought my 2015, I'd be riding a Titanium bike...
How many miles did you put on the bikes you broke in using the motoman method?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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How many miles did you put on the bikes you broke in using the motoman method?
Varies... I have 11,000 on the Versys right now. Two bikes ago, I put 38,000 on an FZ. Last bike (V-Strom) had about 22,000 before it was ended by a texter.
*Never* had an engine issue on any of them. In fact, the power curve seemed to continue to smooth out over the 1st 5,000 miles on all of them.

I will say I'm religious about oil changes, and I use full synth (Mobil 1) -- never go over 5,000 miles w/o a change (along w/ the filter).
I change out after break in, w/ dino oil, then then change again at 1,000 miles w/ synth, and normal changes after that.
 

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Yes, aware of MotoMan's method. For me I used RideApart's suggestion only because it seems to be between the OEM procedure and the risk of getting a speeding ticket using the other method with WOT.

:wink2:
Completely understand. You *do* need some rather "unattended" roads, or high limit roads, to use Motoman's procedure. But, again, his reasoning is extremely sound, IMHO, and I've had very good outcomes. Once you've put 100 miles on your bike, the Motoman procedure is no longer an option. Has to be done right out of the gate.
 
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How many miles did you put on the bikes you broke in using the motoman method?
I can answer that for you:
my '08 HAS 71,543 miles; my '09 had 62,790 kms when it was 'written-off by my insurance; and my '15 has 27,956 kms. ALL three were 'broken-in' by the "Mototman" method on the ride home from the dealer (then the oil changed!), and I've had no problems w/ any of 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good to read about MotoMan's method.

I changed my oil at 200 miles. Yeah, a bit later than I would have liked but I was enjoying the Versys too much to stop.

I will add my "method" for engine break in was some WOT runs up to about 8500 rpms then rolled the throttle off (hence, the ball slam). This was the first 50 miles. Did this in 2nd and 3rd gear. Saw 91 mph at one point, not sure if I "did the ton".

Anyway, modifications on-deck:

Moto Werk lowering kit

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The good from today:

Had the dealer install the correct colored tops and trim pieces on the side cases. Sorry for the “bright” pic:

 
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The not so good from today:

So after a short ride this morning I decided to give the Moto Werk lowering kit a go with the install.

Their instructions: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1147/0214/files/Kawasaki_Versys_650LT_Lowering_Kit_Install_Instructions.pdf?3493357159767210442

Out of the gate they mention in part 2A to use a 6mm allen hex key. Nope, it’s 5mm on the 2017 650LT.

Second challenge is utilizing the bending plate. I followed their instructions exactly as described. Here is the plate next to the trellis:



Well, no way the adjuster knob will “fit” with the bracket where it is now:



And no way can I even connect it to the bracket:



So after 45 minutes of taking the bending plate on and off to position the bracket I was finally able to get it to look like this:





.

I was so frustrated at this point I stopped the install and will tackle another day.

I know MANY are fan-boys of Moto Werk and I'm not going to bash them and the product but this isn't "impressive" for me at this point...

:mad:

.
 

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Mine (2015) had 684 miles on it when I got it and it was already lowered. My shock knob is in the same spot as yours. I don't know where it was originally. It is difficult to get ahold of without getting off the bike.

I'm guessing that the original owner did a "factory" break in properly. Too late now if not.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I finished the install of Moto Werk's lowering link. I also lowered the front forks and lowered the side stand.







.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I utilized a "regular" motorcycle lift when lowering the front forks.

And was I glad I did...



I had the front drop on me. Lucky for me I had the lift in place to (1) minimize the drop and (2) allow me to raise the bike to correct the challenge.

One tip I can give to newbies like me is that when lowering the front, you only need to push up the black part of the suspension assembly. I was trying to raise the whole thing. That is what caused my drop.



Man, I was so glad I had the lift in place...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Besides the challenge of dropping the front - not to mention the relocation of the shock adjuster - the hardest part for me was cutting the side stand.

Yeah, going to need to repaint with a color that better matches the OEM side stand black.



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