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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stator Testing / Low and hi beams dead

A option I recommend Triumph Harness, which involves getting 10 gauge butt splices and 14 gauge, what you require is dependent on the wire gauge of this harness. Triumph Harness advantage, is extra wire length , allowing cutting the original harness connector of Kawasaki leaving 1.5 to 2 inches of wire on the removed connector to allow restoration back to OEM when selling the bike.

Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros Please see post #2 Of this thread

Before starting, a explanation as to headlight relay and parasitic drain. The electronics of the Polaris is designed for a keyed main power relay, the Versys has no such thing, the regulator has full battery voltage to it all the time . Since the design of the Polaris depends on correct polarity as to + - and the control of the output uses the same +, there is a conflict, as the Versys headlight uses one of the 3 phase outputs to trigger the headlight relay.
You need to test the stator before starting, if you have shorted turns, adding a series regulator will free up power to hasten the failure of existing damaged windings, I don't want to hear someone say the Polaris caused damage , follow my post https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1341721-post1.html

I have come up with 4 options ( 2019 )to bypass this problem when installing either Polaris or CompuFire Series Regulators see post #3

Option #1 and #2 involve removing the gas tank #1 cut black pin #2 1.25" long and connect to gray 1/8 "striped insulation & soldering Pin#3 See Photo Verskpd#2 / Screwdriver


Option #2 also involves using a diode, unless you are familiar with electronics , and don't want the headlight coming on until you are ready to ride, my recommendation is to steer clear of this option.

Option #3 involves buying a cheap 12 volt relay but the gas tank can be left in place.

I strongly recommend installing a voltage indicating device,heads up by signal dynamics or neat little voltmeter as in my photo here

neat little volt meter, extremely accurate, day or night


Parts required & Tools

Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros



Using the Triumph Harness: Keep in mind, with the harness you have a additional 5 connections, you will need to cut the connectors off the end that would go to the stator, and butt splice or solder these 5 connections.The two insulated 10 gauge but splice crimps and three 14 gauge insulated butt splice crimps, are required when using this harness ( if you wish to solder that would eliminate the crimps). Several people have stated they found it easier to use the Triumph harness. I now recommend going this route, many don't know how to crimp and the Polaris is a bit of a oversize spade.



( I no longer recommend this)----if you plan on going with the OEM wiring and no after market harness; you need two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps, ( 2 insulated 10 gauge butt splices , 3 insulated 14 gauge butt splices or solder in place of the crimps ) some silicone, 3 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire, also 16 inches of #10 stranded insulated, plastic sandwich bag if you are not using the Triumph harness.Using 1/4 inch female spade stakons direct to the Polaris, expect to need to open the very start of the spade connector, as the Polaris male spade connectors are oversize in thickness, using electrical grease sparingly is also a good idea in either case of install.
I used a wrap of electrical tape around each spade connector, this allowed me to pump in silicone into the cavity , I reverse the tape after the first wrap, sticky side out, using half laps refereed to as reverse taping and the purpose of the sandwich bag.

Before you start, remove the positive battery terminal , instead of the main fuse.

Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order, that is the 3 black wires . Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer.
This is a 07 using the older non Triumph harness method


Again this is the old method, I released some slack in the harness close to the throttle cable, gains about 8 inches of extra wire length. If you had a Triumph harness , butt splices or solder would be in place of the female spade crimps.
Also note the brown wire is taped to protect it, as it is no longer reguired unless you wanted to use it to power led lights from a key switch.

Have a close look at the white/ blue, you will see the black electrical tape on the yellow insulated sleeve, I did one full wrap over the female spade part ,this was done because fully insulated stakons wouldn't fit inside this socket and was done to prevent silicone from entering this area, anyone that has used silicone knows how hard it is to remove once cured

this is the DIY before the Triumph harness was discovered. Notice the brown wire remaining in the harness, this was a keyed control on these early versions, needs to be isolated / taped.

The following photo was before triumph and back or reverse taping, this allows easy removal later, a sandwich bag was used and all the connectors were pushed through a small hole in the bottom, silicone was pumped into the socket and a small amount into the bag, which was taped in place onto the regulator, then the silicone was formed, last reverse tape this later a matter of scoring the tape, once the silicone cures the tape is redundant.


FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output.

This is for option 2, view of my 2015, however all years are similar, note the red clip holding the fuel line in place, I describe this in detail in my valve shim thread. No room in this post as I have a limited # of characters .

So much discussion in previous posts about the diode, if you are not planning on using a diode, see wiring diagram Page 16-80 of the service manual ( 2015).

You need to cut the black wire pin#2 of the center headlight relay, like in my following post. Without a diode there is a 70% chance of the headlight coming on before you hit the brake, remember the headlight relay latches into the on position and will only turn off by hitting the start button or turning the key off, just a FYI. I like to bring the battery up to full charge while warming the bike up and also the load on the motor is reduced, there is a downfall to this circuit, on 2 occasions I have started the bike and was in gear, never touched the brake for 3 KM, and had no headlight, but I have Denali lights on all the time.




View of the relay box 2015 Versys Photos








Top of 2015 showing the fuel tank rubber mounts, tank slides back to remove, also shown is the connector going to the front brake


Front brake connector , note purple wire I added for my headlight relay trigger cct. also note the blue with red tracer is the brake signal and a small piece of insulation was removed and I soldered the purple wire to it





Verspkd #1

So the relay box end , center connector is the headlight relay, below is the connector with pin #2 black wire about to be cut and my purple trigger wire waiting to be soldered
Verspkd #2 Note the Black pin #2 and gray pin#3 with the screwdriver between

here is the purple soldered to the old 3 phase output #1phase wire, pin #2 black, which has been taped the same as the brown wire, no longer needed, but still powered

If you look real close you will see the black wire taped with yellow tape, I use yellow as it is a standard for external live parts and gets your attention

Joint is taped

A trick to taping in confined spaces using a tool such as this bent screwdriver
 

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Hi!
About an hour ago, as I was leaving for a 2-week trip on the Atlantic coast, my Versys stopped charging. I came back home and am now trying to figure out the problem.
Needless to say that I am QUITE frustrated and therefore have a lot of difficulty seeing the forest from the trees.
Note: My Versys has been running with the Polaris series regulator since 2016 without a hiccup.
Are there any fuses involved in the charging system?
Any insight would be VERY appreciated.
Thank you
 

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That happened to me recently on a trip down the Pacific Coast Highway. Was convinced my stator was toast, and that I wouldn't be able to get it home, but it turned out that the ground wire to the battery terminal was not fully seated. I had pulled the battery just prior to the trip and didn't reinstall the terminal bolt squarely (working in the dark, I think).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2018 versys 650

Before you do anything.I have added a post, the 2017 changed part numbers for the regulator, it is possible that Kawasaki had ShinDengen adapt a series regulator to the same pin configuration. I was surprised while checking spelling to see them post this related to Fake / counterfeit products https://www.shindengen.com/support/beware/

See post 56
;

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/13-member-only-group-rides-other-topics/218489-stator-testing-polaris-4016868-low-h-beams-dead.html
 

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Loose connection on the positive side of my SH775

Loose connection. :eek:
I'm hitting the road!
Thank you!
The yellow posi-tap on the green positive side of my SH775 had loosened itself. :eek:
I re-tightened it and did my trip.
On my return, I removed the posi-tap and soldered the green SH775 wire to the OEM wire harness.
Unless someone has a better/easier solution, this winter I intend on doing the same to the 3 black wires exiting the stator.
For the time being, I'm riding. :)



 

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Yes I was lucky to find the problem in a relatively short period of time and was then able to do my trip.



I just replaced a stator burnt to a crisp on my 2015 ;)
I'm sorry to hear that. I had installed the Polaris SH775 right at the beginning (less than 500 km on my bike). I have been a fan of series regulators for quite a while ... even before I had the Versys.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The yellow posi-tap on the green positive side of my SH775 had loosened itself. :eek:
I re-tightened it and did my trip.
On my return, I removed the posi-tap and soldered the green SH775 wire to the OEM wire harness.
Unless someone has a better/easier solution, this winter I intend on doing the same to the 3 black wires exiting the stator.
For the time being, I'm riding. :)



You do recall my feeling on Posi tap , posi seal connectors , anything over 3 amp =
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1595685-post21.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lucky! I just replaced a stator burnt to a crisp on my 2015 ;)
That looks like a OEM stator that you replaced with?? Have you upgraded to a series regulator, somewhat easier on the 2015 . Could you give more detail as to where you sourced the stator and $$$
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More closeup Photos??

Lucky! I just replaced a stator burnt to a crisp on my 2015 ;)
Could you get some close up photos , also from the other side, it appears like you may have had a phase loss and were running 2 phase, that is a broken delta connection. Not the same as single phase where only one winding is burnt.
 

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Any time I can I now solder my connections! Too much chasing connections around though some dialectic grease will defiantly improve the long term quality of bullets or posi-tap connects...
 

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Could you get some close up photos , also from the other side, it appears like you may have had a phase loss and were running 2 phase, that is a broken delta connection. Not the same as single phase where only one winding is burnt.
I've already had it recycled. I still remember the measurements though - I'd see between 1-2V AC between each pair of pins regardless of engine speed (whereas I should see 41+V AC @ 4000 rpm according to the manual, or IIRC 23V AC @ 2000 rpm according to your tutorial). The resistance was roughly in the ballpark, but my meter only shows tenths of Ohm. I'd see 0.2-0.3 Ohm.
Also, it was shorted to the ground, I had a connection between the phases and the frame.

That looks like a OEM stator that you replaced with?? Have you upgraded to a series regulator, somewhat easier on the 2015 . Could you give more detail as to where you sourced the stator and $$$
Yep, I figured the original stator was good for almost 60 000 km so maybe the next one holds up just as well, and the aftermarket no-name stators that were available in Poland were a big unknown. It cost an equivalent of $250.

The regulator is stock. I've read up a bit about replacing it with a series regulator but it seemed this requires changing the factory wiring on the bike? There are two plugs, not one, right? As long as this can be done with a simple adapter, I'd be down for that, but if I need to splice the loom, I'm not so sure...

Also, there's the availability problem with regulators. It's hard to source the ones mentioned in this forum. The closest thing I found in stock is "SEADOO 710001103 SH775AA". Would that be an improvement over OEM? Is that even what I should be looking for?

There are also plenty of Polaris-like regulators on aliexpress, but again, it's an unknown. Are Chinese R/Rs a good idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mosfet / Series / Not The Same

From what I can find and recall, the FH is a mosfet shunt regulator, the forward voltage drop is less and it is more efficient,however it is a shunt regulator , it still runs the stator output at 100% at or above 3500 RPM, below 3500 RPM it shunts the difference between base load and output. Why bother changing this out. As to Polaris, since you have a 2015, the 4016868 can be purchased here from a Polaris dealer for $128 Canadian including tax. Since I am that kind of guy, I bought one for testing even though I had a Compu-Fire in my 2015 from my 07 Versys. This spring I installed the 4016868 and did more extensive testing, unfortunately there is no way of proving it is a legitimate one if you buy off Ebay. I also bought another 4012941 Polaris at a fairly good price. For a time I was buying used ones and testing them, then making harnesses and selling them to a few guys I know. Since shipping has gone through the roof and the price of used 4012941 have also gone crazy I have stopped that. Since I now have two spare regulators , come later this year I plan on selling one of them, not sure which one yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've already had it recycled. I still remember the measurements though - I'd see between 1-2V AC between each pair of pins regardless of engine speed (whereas I should see 41+V AC @ 4000 rpm according to the manual, or IIRC 23V AC @ 2000 rpm according to your tutorial). The resistance was roughly in the ballpark, but my meter only shows tenths of Ohm. I'd see 0.2-0.3 Ohm.
Also, it was shorted to the ground, I had a connection between the phases and the frame.



Yep, I figured the original stator was good for almost 60 000 km so maybe the next one holds up just as well, and the aftermarket no-name stators that were available in Poland were a big unknown. It cost an equivalent of $250.

The regulator is stock. I've read up a bit about replacing it with a series regulator but it seemed this requires changing the factory wiring on the bike? There are two plugs, not one, right? As long as this can be done with a simple adapter, I'd be down for that, but if I need to splice the loom, I'm not so sure...

Also, there's the availability problem with regulators. It's hard to source the ones mentioned in this forum. The closest thing I found in stock is "SEADOO 710001103 SH775AA". Would that be an improvement over OEM? Is that even what I should be looking for?

There are also plenty of Polaris-like regulators on aliexpress, but again, it's an unknown. Are Chinese R/Rs a good idea?
I must have been quoting you while you edited out the FH. The best bet is to buy a Polaris 4016868 from a dealer, you also should buy a Triumph harness, all this is in my posts in the How To Forum under Polaris. As to Ali or any other source, 99.9999% available are fake china knock offs, sad that even Shindengen posted a fake product warning. I copied a post here from another thread. The 2015 up, all suffer from reduced wire length, I actually spliced in 8 inches of wiring for the front right harness that includes the signal light because it was so short. So adapting another regulator to a 2015 is easier than the MK-1 and MK-2 for mounting and more options , but you won't be able to use the existing wiring on it's own without adding a harness or lenghtening the wiring. As to Furukawa plugs, they do not make a connector or male pins to fit the regulator, that is you cannot buy the regulator version of that plug for the OEM regulator, If they did I would be buying them my self.
 

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Two more questions - does the Polaris regulator have the same screw distance as the OEM one? That is, is it mechanically a straightforward swap, apart from the plugs, or does one have to come up with an adapter plate or cut some plastics? Also, what is the part number of that Triumph harness? I've searched the forum for "triumph harness" and while I see it mentioned a lot but can't find a link or part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Updated Thread / Moved Thread

Two more questions - does the Polaris regulator have the same screw distance as the OEM one? That is, is it mechanically a straightforward swap, apart from the plugs, or does one have to come up with an adapter plate or cut some plastics? Also, what is the part number of that Triumph harness? I've searched the forum for "triumph harness" and while I see it mentioned a lot but can't find a link or part number.
The very first post is one copied and edited from How To Forum which has the part number and link in it. Copied posts are pasted in order of date of the original post so this thread has it as a first post.
Your question about spacing, on the 2015 the 4012941 Polaris will fit the exact same footprint however you need to mount it with the socket facing forward, and a little persuasion with longer bolts I think. I am revising the How To threads, too many different posts to follow, so updating, copying and deleting.
 
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