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I'm now at 600 miles and still having lots of noise from the rear rotor. Definitely not normal.

https://youtu.be/9runEFxVjKY
Same problem on mine which is now up to a total of 158 km ... :thumbdown:
It only does it when advancing very slowly (in driveway, etc.).
When I hit the rear brake, the sound disappears for a few seconds.

Note: On a stand, I can turn the wheel ... but there is no sound.

I notice that many here with their 2015 have had the same problem. Has it gone away by itself, or did you need to do something about it?
Thanks! :)
 

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Same problem on mine which is now up to a total of 158 km ... :thumbdown:
It only does it when advancing very slowly (in driveway, etc.).
When I hit the rear brake, the sound disappears for a few seconds.

Note: On a stand, I can turn the wheel ... but there is no sound.

I notice that many here with their 2015 have had the same problem. Has it gone away by itself, or did you need to do something about it?
Thanks! :)
I could hear a slight rubbing of the rear rotor, mostly when walking the bike backwards at a sharp turn. At about 1000 miles I took the bike out for half an hour of acceleration and progressively firmer rear braking. The sound went away. I heard it again once, but a quick spray of brake cleaner made it go away. I noticed a slight pulsation at the front brakes once, and spinning and lubing the rotor bobbins solved that. Thanks invader.
 

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IAMRA

Thanks for passing on the brake rotor bobbins tip.

At 350 km +/-, I was intrigued by the rear disc dragging sound. This morning I decided to look at it more closely.

Runout on the rear disc goes from anywhere from .0000 in. to .0050 at one location. Most of it is between .0000 to .0003, with one location at .0050. This is within the acceptable standard, but close to the .0059 in. limit.



Many times, when I check a fastener on my Versys, it is either over torqued with permanent type lock-tite, or it is bone dry (i.e.: rear axle, etc.). I therefore had to check the rear caliper assembly.
It was immediately clear that the caliper holder bolt, and the rear caliper holder pin were bone dry.





I cleaned these up before applying Permatex Synthetic Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube to the above and to the dust boot & friction boot.



The pads didn’t show any evidence of wearing more on one side or the other. They are, after all, brand new.

I could very easily push back the piston into the caliper with my thumbs. I assume that it is functioning properly.

After reassembling the caliper assembly onto the wheel, I went around the block to see if the dragging disappeared. It did for about 100 feet. :(

Oh well, I’ll try a set of organic pads soon. It will be easier on the disc but am not 100% confident that this issue will go away. The disc is warped just enough to be within standard, but also just enough to drag and make intermittent noise.
 

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Take it to Dealer

IAMRA

Thanks for passing on the brake rotor bobbins tip.

At 350 km +/-, I was intrigued by the rear disc dragging sound. This morning I decided to look at it more closely.

Runout on the rear disc goes from anywhere from .0000 in. to .0050 at one location. Most of it is between .0000 to .0003, with one location at .0050. This is within the acceptable standard, but close to the .0059 in. limit.



Many times, when I check a fastener on my Versys, it is either over torqued with permanent type lock-tite, or it is bone dry (i.e.: rear axle, etc.). I therefore had to check the rear caliper assembly.
It was immediately clear that the caliper holder bolt, and the rear caliper holder pin were bone dry.





I cleaned these up before applying Permatex Synthetic Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube to the above and to the dust boot & friction boot.



The pads didn’t show any evidence of wearing more on one side or the other. They are, after all, brand new.

I could very easily push back the piston into the caliper with my thumbs. I assume that it is functioning properly.

After reassembling the caliper assembly onto the wheel, I went around the block to see if the dragging disappeared. It did for about 100 feet. :(

Oh well, I’ll try a set of organic pads soon. It will be easier on the disc but am not 100% confident that this issue will go away. The disc is warped just enough to be within standard, but also just enough to drag and make intermittent noise.
Before I would do any more fixes and would take it to the dealer, I have done this before, explained it is within spec but just in spec, they want my business, and just replaced what was needed.

One other thought, since you say it is just one area, it could be the mounting bolts , like yourself I have found many of the bolts way over-torqued, some with permanent loctite, some dry, as you know dry and lubed torque are two different things.

It is possible that the wheel mounting is causing the distortion. I did a study years ago with SKF bearings, during the Vietnam War, I mention the time period because the bearings we were using were also used primarily in helicopters. Our application was a conveyor system moving porcelain using 5 HP vibrator motors . It was shown that a 2 inch thick spigot could be distorted and that distortion could transfer through to the bearing and cause early bearing failure, seeing was believing. FYI everything was finish ground by a machine shop to 0.0005". The distortion was caused by the motor frame where the end bell mounted, we had to hand fit each end bell, and file any high spots, initially used the blue dye to show the high spots.Very interesting time in my life, doing mechanical work, rebuilding gear boxes and variable speed drives, kind of miss the ability to machine my own parts--well that was 35 years ago.
:huh:
 
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Before I would do any more fixes and would take it to the dealer, I have done this before, explained it is within spec but just in spec, they want my business, and just replaced what was needed.
Good suggestion but I am allergic to dealerships, etc. I show up at the parts counter when need be. :)
Unless my Versys has a MAJOR problem, they will not hear of me.

One other thought, since you say it is just one area, it could be the mounting bolts , like yourself I have found many of the bolts way over-torqued, some with permanent loctite, some dry, as you know dry and lubed torque are two different things.

It is possible that the wheel mounting is causing the distortion. I did a study years ago with SKF bearings, during the Vietnam War, I mention the time period because the bearings we were using were also used primarily in helicopters. Our application was a conveyor system moving porcelain using 5 HP vibrator motors . It was shown that a 2 inch thick spigot could be distorted and that distortion could transfer through to the bearing and cause early bearing failure, seeing was believing. FYI everything was finish ground by a machine shop to 0.0005". The distortion was caused by the motor frame where the end bell mounted, we had to hand fit each end bell, and file any high spots, initially used the blue dye to show the high spots.Very interesting time in my life, doing mechanical work, rebuilding gear boxes and variable speed drives, kind of miss the ability to machine my own parts--well that was 35 years ago.
Great idea! That had not crossed my mind. Today: I will ride but tomorrow will be a wet, rainy day. I'll will then check the rotor mounting bolts.

Thank you!
 

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Rode my '15 in POURING rain yesterday, and noticed an unusual sound JUST as I started to move the brake lever (BOTH front and rear) - just a very short squeek - then nothing. Brakes worked fine, and I wondered IF it might have been something to do w/ the ABS....
 

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quexpress,
Yes, my pins and boots show no sign of ever being lubricated. Thanks for the tip. This might be the source of your squeak, Eddie.
 

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The rotors had permanent loctite

One other thought, since you say it is just one area, it could be the mounting bolts , like yourself I have found many of the bolts way over-torqued, some with permanent loctite, some dry, as you know dry and lubed torque are two different things.

It is possible that the wheel mounting is causing the distortion. I did a study years ago with SKF bearings, during the Vietnam War, I mention the time period because the bearings we were using were also used primarily in helicopters. Our application was a conveyor system moving porcelain using 5 HP vibrator motors . It was shown that a 2 inch thick spigot could be distorted and that distortion could transfer through to the bearing and cause early bearing failure, seeing was believing. FYI everything was finish ground by a machine shop to 0.0005". The distortion was caused by the motor frame where the end bell mounted, we had to hand fit each end bell, and file any high spots, initially used the blue dye to show the high spots.Very interesting time in my life, doing mechanical work, rebuilding gear boxes and variable speed drives, kind of miss the ability to machine my own parts--well that was 35 years ago.
:huh:
Yep! You got it! the rotor bolts had permanent loctite and seemed to be very over-torqued. I could not remove them with a half-inch ratchet.
I could have used a torch to heat the bolts but since the disc is already warped, I decided to use my air gun instead. The bolts only came off when I adjusted the gun to 90 lbs. Lower than that, they did not budge.
After cleaning them up, I applied blue loctite and torqued them to spec.
I finished this by installing cheap organic pads.
Although this disc is still a bit warm after rides, it does not squeal anymore. :)

Note: The front rotors also had permanent loctite and could not be removed with my ratchet. The air gun and blue loctite came to the rescue.

Thank you!
 

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FWIW - the rear brake pads on my '15 650 were worn-out at about 12K miles, and replaced when I replaced the Shinko 705.

My '08 is STILL on its original rear pads, and my '09 was TOO, at 66K kms when the insurance 'wrote-it-off'.
 

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FWIW - the rear brake pads on my '15 650 were worn-out at about 12K miles, and replaced when I replaced the Shinko 705.

My '08 is STILL on its original rear pads at 66K miles, and my '09 was TOO, at 66K kms. when the insurance 'wrote-it-off'.
 

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Good stuff to look out for when I get mine. I'm reading this thread and this is the exact same thing the ZRX1100 was notorious for. Rear brake squeal until it warmed up, sometimes just random. Take the rotor off, re-attach to a reasonable torque and lube the slide plates. Done deal.
 

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FWIW - the rear brake pads on my '15 650 were worn-out at about 12K miles, and replaced when I replaced the Shinko 705.

My '08 is STILL on its original rear pads at 66K miles, and my '09 was TOO, at 66K kms. when the insurance 'wrote-it-off'.
That's puzzling. What do you think could be the cause of this?
 

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My 2015 Versys has 3000 miles and still does the same thing. The annoying sound is there. I took it to the dealer and they said my rear wheel was not installed properly when I had a flat tire fixed thus the sound. Then They cleaned it or whatever they did to it. The sound disappeared for about a week or two, then it was back.
 

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That's puzzling. What do you think could be the cause of this?
NO idea, but I JUST replaced the OEM chain and countershaft sprocket, at about 24K kms (15K miles...), which ALSO is very unusual in my experience! (But AT LEAST - the rear brake pads looked OK...!)
 

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Mine started doing this about a month after I got it (last December) and I read on this forum or another one to take a scotchbrite pad to the rotor and clean off the adhered brake pad material and rebed the brakes with a couple of vigorous stops. It worked and I haven't heard the noise since then. I have a pair of pit stands so spinning the wheel (by hand, fools) while holding the scotchbrite on the rotors was easy.

YMMV

PS> mine was really bad when backing out of the garage.
 

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Okay I hit 380 miles yesterday, while I was in town it started doing it. Once I noticed when it would do it, I could make it sound off at will by applying light rear brake when almost to a stop, release the pedal and it would do it. The sound was identical to what I've heard before on other bikes. This morning I put it on the rear stand and would spin the wheel and operate the pedal by hand, bringing the wheel to a fast stop about 3 times then turn the wheel slowly watching and listening. I had one spot it would do it, same place. I could walk it back and forth on that area and barely touch the pedal and make it change pitch. I then grabbed the outboard pad and pulled it to get it released from the rotor all the way. I then repeated the cycle of turning and braking, pulled on the pad and it would not do it. The pad not backing off the rotor (caliper piston not returning completely) was causing it. After that I de-glazed the rotor with scotch brite and not as bad but still did it. I found a spring in my spare parts that looked like I could make do with for a test. I put it over the rear guide pin and backed it with a washer to put positive outward pressure on the pads when static. Tested it on the stand and it went away, also lubed the slide plates the pads run in. I went for a short ride doing light braking, hard braking, trail braking in corners and it felt normal with no noise. I'm now going to find a proper stainless spring to be a more permanent fix. The bikes I've heard this on before were cured with a similar fix of lubing the slide plates and de-glazing the rotor. Hope this info and picture helps anyone wanting to try this. It worked for mine, should work on all others as well. Once I get the right spring size I'll post that info.
 

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Is there anything special about the caliper lube? Or is white wheel bearing grease or some other product acceptable?

Also, any reason to change out OEM brake pads? If so, which ones and why?
 
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