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Discussion Starter #1
Haven't done any mods. My ex500 had a whole bunch of easy mods to improve running.

Any maintenance or mods I should look to perform?

Thanks!
 

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Try Invader's vacuum-line mod. Made my 09V smoother at lower rpm. I also added a 43-tooth rear sprocket to reduce cruise rpm, but it also reduced the "jerkiness" at low rpm.
 

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Vacuum line mod: A 6" long 5/32" ID vacuum hose (available from your auto parts distributor) bridging the two throttle bodies' front vacuum fittings. Leave IAP sensor hose on its specific outer fitting.

Are you at low elevation? You can also rotate your main throttle sensor counterclockwise a tad to add fuel at low throttle. Rotating mine by less than 1mm also raised its voltrage output within spec at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Vacuum line mod: A 6" long 5/32" ID vacuum hose (available from your auto parts distributor) bridging the two throttle bodies' front vacuum fittings. Leave IAP sensor hose on its specific outer fitting.

Are you at low elevation? You can also rotate your main throttle sensor counterclockwise a tad to add fuel at low throttle. Rotating mine by less than 1mm also raised its voltrage output within spec at WOT.
Thanks Invader, I spent the better part of today looking through some of your threads.

My bike runs at 43 mpg avg and I'm a pretty smooth rider. It's under warranty - should I ask the dealer about it? It's not that far off of most versys on fuelly. http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/kawasaki/versys even if Kawi specs it at 53.
 

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I think it depends on how much you'd like to fight with the dealer. I have a 14 and damn if that thing isn't jumpy. I'm as smooth as I can be, but it can be pretty unpleasant at low speeds.

Are you in California? I think they run a little leaner here, but maybe I'm wrong.

Invader, I looked at that website. There are only 14 in California, and I'm 3 hours away from the nearest. Damn!
 

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Some ECU's can re-learn TPS range by going key on, engine off, closed throttle to open throttle once or twice. Then turn off key. Then turn on key and start engine. Could help, can't hurt to try.
 

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Shifting higher helps for sure, but it's not possible in traffic or like in a parking lot. I just did the vacuum line mod that Invader posted, and it helped quite a bit. It made mine just a tad less jumpy (maybe slower)from a stop, but that goes away as soon as the throttle plated open up more and the effect goes away. Much smoother cruising.

Throttle position sensor rotation didn't help me much, but I only rotated it like .25mm, probably not enough to change it. My multimeter broke so I didn't want to go further than that without a proper reading.
 

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There's nothing wrong with it, and the dealer can't help you... It's just calibrated a bit lean to pass emissions, especially near 2,800 rpm where it mostly tends to stumble.

I do concur that it pulls cleanly above 3000 rpm in stock form... With the vacuum hose coupling both TB's and with main throttle sensor adjusted up to spec, I was checking my revs today. In the city, I ride around and accelerate smoothly up to 5th gear from 2000 rpm. Launching from a stop, I'm at 1200 rpm with clutch fully engaged, and I can even let it dip just under 1000. Tractability and driveability is absolutely astounding and flawless! It also pulls very strongly with an extra little rush from 9500 to 10500. Damn I love this bike. It does everything so well, it never ceases to amaze me. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No need to see the dealer about my mods...
Would the dealer take issue with the throttle body hose connection if I brought it in for a warranty issue?

What elevation are you at? What type of gasoline are you using? Is ethanol-free gas available where you are?

http://pure-gas.org/
I'm at sea level with 10% blended ethanol. Getting pure gas would cost about 10% more. I'll drain my tank for pure and post results. Is the added cost worth it?
 

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Yes, the dealer could deny warranty claims because of the hose. It's easy enough to remove, but you should do so before taking it in.

Between the hose, and a slight TPS adjustment(search the forums), my stumble is all but gone. I had a lean backfire through my carbs which has disappeared.
 

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Cool, the only pure gas in NJ is just 32 miles from my house. Not great, but then it is only 4 miles from my closest motorcycle racetrack NJMP. I figure I can bring a gas can or two for the bike and maybe catch a few laps while I'm in the neighborhood.
Mine is grumpy at low RPM's too. I was blaming it on my Yoshi pipe (too cheap to get the power commander yet..) Anyway I think I'll try the Vacuum line mod and some ethanol free gas too.
 

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My simplest mod was compliments of Invader, moving the TPS , I have a 07, I can run in 6 gear , just under 1800 rpm, and it is smooth. I have been asked before to measure the voltage, problem is once I get that close, I want to be riding it.

I also added the 6 inch vacuum line, but put it back to stock, I found I was dumping gas when engine braking, mileage was in the low 40 miles per gallon, I get between 19 and 21 KM per liter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Throttle body mod complete. Results are very promising so far. Thank you.

Observations:
  • Doing it without removing the fuel tank may or may not be faster, but it's definitely more frustrating
  • Engine now hunts by 200-300 rpm when warming up, where it used to be stable
  • Warmed engine idles at 1.1K
  • Throttle application is amazingly smooth now and it's easy to open the throttle up just a tiny bit without the old throttle surge
 

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By "throttle body mod", you mean the 6" long, 5/32" ID vacuum TB coupler hose, or the main throttle sensor (TPS) adjustment?

So, warmed up idle went from 1,300 down to 1,100 rpm? You can set it back up to 1,300 rpm. You may also reduce fast idle rpm if you like, by rotating subthrottle sensor also counterclockwise. Mine was originally rotated amost fully counterclockwise already, which it now is. I did however remove my subthrottle valves.

You will get better fuel mileage and more power on real pure gasoline. No need to drain your tank first. You can just use it up.
 

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Good to hear!

I suspect the throttle variance is a result of each cylinder "asking" for air from the other resulting in an incorrect vacuum when the butterflies are depending on the vacuum sync alone.

The idle will change as the sync does, so you can easily adjust that back to factory spec.

All of my motorcycle experience is with carbs, so I may be wrong, but...

Partial throttle applications rely much more on the vacuum sync than anything else. It's important to make sure they are even for this reason. Starting, idling, and 0-1/8 turn throttle are all reliant on this being balanced. Once they open up more, minute differences are forgotten and the cylinders take in what the throttle body diameter and air filter dictate. Fuel is adjusted accordingly and then you go VROOOM.

As it's been said before, and I agree...this mod (the 6" line) only balances the transition point, and saps your power so that it's not as jumpy. Off the line- and during that transition- you'll notice its a bit slower. If you open the throttle more though, you're right back in it.
 

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Needed for CA edition?

Hi All,
I'm interested in whether this mod (vac hose) has been done (or even needed) on a CA edition? I'm looking for a smoother throttle at lower rpm and better mpgs if possible.

Thanks in advanced!
 
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