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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay so i got a 2013 versys with only 3k miles in a trade the bike wasn't running. the battery is brand new when i turn the key on the cluster lights up lights work etc. but wen i go to start it it turns over but wont start, when i do get it to start it struggles and wont idle and cuts off after a few minutes
 

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Could be a million reasons why so you need to start checking just about everything. Fuel pump, fuel lines, breather tubes, air intake, air filter, spark plugs, relay box, rectifier, stator, battery voltage, wiring, corroded connectors, error codes and etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
okay so i got a 2013 versys with only 3k miles in a trade the bike wasn't running. the battery is brand new when i turn the key on the cluster lights up lights work etc. but wen i go to start it it turns over but wont start, when i do getit to start it struggles and wont idle and cuts off after a few minutes
also my FI light is on i was able to get it to crank for a minute or 2 but then it dies but would not come to an idle any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could be a million reasons why so you need to start checking just about everything. Fuel pump, fuel lines, breather tubes, air intake, air filter, spark plugs, relay box, rectifier, stator, battery voltage, wiring, corroded connectors, error codes and etc.
ive checked all my connections the only corrosion seems to be on the positive to the ignition silenoid but i cant get it to break loose to clean it up, and there is rust un the gas tank, only other thing was there was a white sealant looking putty inside the vehicle down sensor harness
 

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ive checked all my connections the only corrosion seems to be on the positive to the ignition silenoid but i cant get it to break loose to clean it up, and there is rust un the gas tank, only other thing was there was a white sealant looking putty inside the vehicle down sensor harness
So I take it you have drained the tank, inspected the fuel pump and cleaned inside of the tank from any muc or debris?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I take it you have drained the tank, inspected the fuel pump and cleaned inside of the tank from any muc or debris?
yes i have , checked everything with multimeter and everything is getting power except the sensor that comes off of the top right side of the air box under the gas tank not sure what that sensor does or if it could be the issue but im at my whits end and need transportation like yesterday
 

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yes i have , checked everything with multimeter and everything is getting power except the sensor that comes off of the top right side of the air box under the gas tank not sure what that sensor does or if it could be the issue but im at my whits end and need transportation like yesterday
Have tried running the bike with the fuel cap open? And by "cuts out" you mean you still have dashboard lights on? And by idle you mean you have tried to keep up RPM i.e. at 1500 and it still shuts off?
 

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yes i have , checked everything with multimeter and everything is getting power except the sensor that comes off of the top right side of the air box under the gas tank not sure what that sensor does or if it could be the issue but im at my whits end and need transportation like yesterday
That sensor is the intake air temp sensor
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have tried running the bike with the fuel cap open? And by "cuts out" you mean you still have dashboard lights on? And by idle you mean you have tried to keep up RPM i.e. at 1500 and it still shuts off?
NO I have not tried running with cap off, what is the purpose in that? but correct on the cut out andid====================================================================================================================================================================00000000000nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm99999999999999999mmmmmmm0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000mmmmmmmm0mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm000o
That sensor is the intake air temp sensor
could that be causing my issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE bypassed the vehicle down sensor, and she will fire up with starter fluid but dies shortly after but lights stay on. and will not idle you have to stay on the throttle
 

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UPDATE bypassed the vehicle down sensor, and she will fire up with starter fluid but dies shortly after but lights stay on. and will not idle you have to stay on the throttle
How did you bypass the sensor? Also, consider buying some new vacuum line and replacing all of it--about $20
 

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If you have a FI light, that is something you can work with. You can get fault codes from the ecu. IIRC you ground that extra wire under the seat, it's the one single wire with a bullet connector next to the 4 pin guy, look it up to be sure. My guess is maybe your secondary throttles are stuck and you're getting a malfunction from the servo. Are they making that distinctive noise as they open and close after you power on before you crank?
 

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bypassed using 100 ohm resistors, what does the vaccum line do?
I used a 32k resistor and DD has a workaround, I can't see a 100-ohm resistor working, here is the thread;
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you have a FI light, that is something you can work with. You can get fault codes from the ecu. IIRC you ground that extra wire under the seat, it's the one single wire with a bullet connector next to the 4 pin guy, look it up to be sure. My guess is maybe your secondary throttles are stuck and you're getting a malfunction from the servo. Are they making that distinctive noise as they open and close after you power on before you crank?
YES IT MAKES A NOISE FROM
Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle

THE THING WITH WIRES COMING FROM IT
I DONT GET ANY READS WHEN I TOUCH MULTIMETER TO THESE SENSORS
Hand Finger Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior

Finger Thumb Nail Aircraft Bumper

AND WHEN I DO DIAGNOSTICS I GET CODE 13 AND CODE 62
PLEASE SOMDEONE HELP IM LOSING MY MIND ON THIS DAMN BIJE AND ITS MY ONLY TRANSPORTATION
 

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code 13
Intake air temperature sensor
malfunction, wiring open or short


Code 62
Subthrottle valve actuator
malfunction, wiring open or short

If you have disconnected the sensor with the ignition on you may have caused the code yourself
I would start by clearing the codes and then try start the bike again and see if the same codes reappear
 

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(Do I think the intake air temp sensor could be the prob)

Probably not as I think the ECU substitutes a reference value of 40 degrees in the event of a fault
so I think it would still run
( but I am open to correction )
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
okay so i changed the air temp sensor now the only code its throwing is # 62 checked all connectins they seem fine when i turn on power before cranking there is a very strange distinct sound coming from left side of bike near the thing in the 1st picture then wont crank need some guidance on what my next step should be
 
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