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Discussion Starter #1
So today I was riding, and just got onto the highway and experienced some major power loss, followed by some bad sounds to me, and I'm unsure what it is. I have a 2011 Versys 650 with a decent amount of aftermarket. I don't think its anything related with the transmission as it shifts fine, it's entirely on the engine. I don't know if I need to adjust my valves but it probably won't hurt to check. Here's a video of the sound.

the sound only appears above 4k rpm, idle and up to 3k sound fine. I don't care if I have to bust the engine apart, I'm entirely willing to do a tear down. I just want to know/get an idea of what actually happened, and if anyone can help me out.

I checked my valves 2k miles ago and they were all in spec, but if I should go try checking them again, someone let me know.
 

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could it be the air filter that is clogged?
Otherwise I'd go around all airbox components: hoses, air switching valve, reed valve (air suction valve), visible connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
could it be the air filter that is clogged?
Otherwise I'd go around all airbox components: hoses, air switching valve, reed valve (air suction valve), visible connectors.
I doubt it could be because I have my airbox modified. I checked everything twice since I modified it, and I've had no issues.

I also started the bike up after it sat for 4 hours, I heard the noise on startup and it was much worse after riding it a little bit. I'll get to cracking it apart in about 20 minutes for a top end inspection. I have a feeling it has something to do with the valves/timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Update: I changed the oil because it needed it, the bike started up first with that noise at idle, so I turned it off. Started it up again, and it ended up sounding okay at idle. Rode it up the block, and it seemed to regain it's power. (Power wheelie in first like normal.) didn't have the sound... then after a few minutes it came back at the higher RPMs but no power loss. I'm thinking its the timing chain at this point because I do seem to have the classic Kawasaki ticking.

Looking around I've seen some ZX6R's that have the exact noise and they all say its the cam chain tensioner.

I'm tempted to try this as it should be the same thing. Most of the noise I hear seems to come from the cam side, and I'm sure that's exactly what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update 2: I did the CCT reset, and it seemed to help a bit with the ticking, if not entirely fixed that. I still have some chatter when I get to higher RPM so I'm going to let the bike cool down and check the valve clearances. I didn't bother with it yesterday because I was frustrated but it seems like my only option at this point. If my clearances are off I'll be sure to update, if they aren't, I'm not sure what direction to go besides going to a shop, which is what I try and avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I spoke with the person that did the tuning for my bike (ECU Flash/PC5), and he did say that it could either be shims or a broken spring retainer, low possibility of bottom end. I will be taking it to him tomorrow to check it out if the shims don't fix my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
These are how my valve clearances looks. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace all but the exhaust valve 2 since everything else is rather out of spec/about to be out of spec anyway.

Also while I have the buckets out I'll be looking at the spring retainers since that was another theory that J (Tuner) had. If none of them are bad, my plan is to put the bike back together w/ the new shims, and then if the sound doesn't go away, I'll tear into the bottom end.

179508
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If anyone happens to be reading this, I'm looking for the intake/exhaust shim selection chart, I can't seem to find it online. It's featured in this video
(Timestamped so you don't have to skip anywhere to find it). If I can't find it I'm at least going to ALSO post all the cylinder specs were and the shims I currently have with this post. If I can't figure anything out before Monday then I will go to a shop and see what they'd recommend.
179510
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That video convinced me that I will take my bike to a shop rather than check/adjust the valves myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That video convinced me that I will take my bike to a shop rather than check/adjust the valves myself.
Honestly I feel perfectly comfortable doing it after watching it. I just need to know what shims to put back into the bike. I found tearing it apart to be quite fun actually.
 

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Well during the month of June all my photos were incognito , they are all restored. I am going to give you several tips,one you are way ahead doing it yourself, secondly it is a waste of time and money buying the shims. Do one valve at a time, think about this, cylinder 1 intake clearance is made up of two components, the bucket and valve shim as a assembly, take the valve shim from #1 and then measure #2 valve shim, they may be different because the buckets are different. Take note all your valve are on the tight side, most of us sand them down, the amount you are taking out will never go beyond the hardened part of the shim. I explain that I used a 2X4 on the 1.5 inch side with a small countersunk hole equal to the diameter of the shim, that way you don't lose finger nails, about 5 minutes a shim with 300 and 400 carbide sand paper, wet sanding.Measure often, all my clearances are at maximum. I have a list of tools and the photos. 80% of the work is taking things apart and putting together. Word of warning, place rags in all openings, chances are good you may drop something, the cam caps need careful handling especially going together, don't force anything, also dry torque, no oil on any cam cap bolts or threads, get some brake cleaner. Wet torque is 60 to 70% of dry torque. If you aren't sure ask, several of us have done this service several times.


 

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I'm w/ onewizard - FIRST time I "did" the valves in my '08 V650 I measured everything, then ordered the shims that would set my clearances to the high end (if the requirement is .0087" to .0122", I work to .0122"). I took my calipers to the shop when they called that they were "in", so I measured the NEW ones and found that they were NOT at the sizes they were SUPPOSED to be!

The mechanic let me go thru his 'box of shims' so I WAS able to get EXACTLY what I needed, but from then on I started to 'sand' my shims to EXACTLY the size I needed, as Glen mentioned (and I BELIEVE it was "invader" who first mentioned sanding them).

(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm w/ onewizard - FIRST time I "did" the valves in my '08 V650 I measured everything, then ordered the shims that would set my clearances to the high end (if the requirement is .0087" to .0122", I work to .0122"). I took my calipers to the shop when they called that they were "in", so I measured the NEW ones and found that they were NOT at the sizes they were SUPPOSED to be!

The mechanic let me go thru his 'box of shims' so I WAS able to get EXACTLY what I needed, but from then on I started to 'sand' my shims to EXACTLY the size I needed, as Glen mentioned (and I BELIEVE it was "invader" who first mentioned sanding them).

(y)(y)
My idea was to go to a shop initially and trade for shims that I need. There's several shops around my city that I can visit for shims. I mostly need to know if I should get loser shims or leave mine alone, or what I should actually change. In my mind I should replace all except for the .010 that is Cylinders 2 Exhaust Valve 2. I will give a look into sanding shims since I am rather intimidated at the thought of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I edited this post to say that in a few minutes I will have a post that shows some footage that I didn't realize that I had.

I actually have some footage that shows the exact moment the breakdown happens. So be wary of that post.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, as this video explains in the description (When it's uploaded, still being uploaded currently.) I actually have footage of the exact moment that the breakdown occurred. I forgot I had my go pro on my helmet that day and just so happened to be recording, lucky me.

Anyway, the video shows that I get onto the highway and not even a mile into it, well, the bad things happen.

Note: You WILL see my bike accelerate to 11k RPM. It's ECU flashed. Also my speedometer is extremely off due to gearing. As you can see I am barely passing cars, and the speedo will read around 90mph. so NO, the speedo is NOT accurate, I am aware and will attempt to fix it once I get the driving issue fixed.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
After showing this video to a friend of mine that's a mechanic, he says that I spun a rod bearing. So I'm now going to tear down the engine and see what's up with it.

If I did and it's not worth buying parts to fix, I'm either buying a new engine or this is going to turn into an engine swap with something else. Engine would be up for debate.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In order to inspect the internals properly, I'm going to inspect it with my mechanic friend, so tonight I have tore the engine down and apart. It is currently able to be taken out by simply taking the mount bolts apart.
179563


When it comes to engines I'm willing to get creative, I've been thinking about it all day. Any 600cc should be able to fit, unless the frame is just a little too narrow. If that's the case then I could see a Street Triple motor fitting. Next candidate would be an MT07 motor. I'm fairly confident I can get a powerful engine swapped in, and I'm confident in the frame being able to handle those forces because people stunt the Ninja 650, which shares the same frame, only difference being some tabs here and there. If the frame can handle stunt falls, then it should be fine. It's a High-Tensile Steel, if anyone doesn't know, so this is why I'm confident. Most sport bikes have aluminum, so I'm pretty hopeful to see how an engine swap would go.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I measured the frame today for giggles, turns out the frame is 13 inches wide (About, basically one foot wide). I decided to go to a triumph dealership today and measure a Street Triple 765 engine - turns out the engine at the cylinder head/top end is 1 foot wide (Just about, a tad bit smaller due to my inaccurate measuring.) So if I do an engine swap I have decided that it will be a a Triumph 765 or 675 triple cylinder engine. The intention with this swap will be track use and/or unique daily. I have plans on just about everything when it comes to setup, even though I have no reason to be worrying about any of that right now.
 

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Your red low oil pressure lamp did light up momentarily when you pulled over, then again when it started to crap out more... So you probably did spin a main bearing on the crankshaft. Did it ever run low on oil, was it old or cheap oil, or did it just run up in the red zone too often?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Your red low oil pressure lamp did light up momentarily when you pulled over, then again when it started to crap out more... So you probably did spin a rod bearing on the crankshaft. Did it ever run low on oil, was it old or cheap oil, or did it just run up in the red zone too often?
I think the oil was thinning out due to heat because of all the hot weather, I only had 2.5k miles on the oil (Normally change around 3k miles). I never buy cheap oil, I always put Motul Synthetic 10w40. There's been a few times I've had to redline the bike to get attention of idiotic drivers due to my lack of a horn (Whole bracket broke coming down off a wheelie, too lazy to replace that.)

I easily ride harder than most people here, so that's my assumption for why the oil went out quicker, besides the weather. Me and my dad are going to take the engine apart and inspect the internals soon. I never really ranlow on oil, I had no leaks. So unless the bike is eating just a bit as well, I'm not sure.
 
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