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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy! My 2009 Versys isn't getting any power when the key is inserted and turned. Battery is good and I replaced the starter relay. What would you do as the next steps in figuring out the issue?
Many thanks!
-Gus
 

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I would disconnect the battery and clean the cables. They can look clean, but have a layer of corrosion under the terminals. Are you hearing anything when you turn the key.

Im sure you’ve checked the stop switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would disconnect the battery and clean the cables. They can look clean, but have a layer of corrosion under the terminals. Are you hearing anything when you turn the key.

Im sure you’ve checked the stop switch.
Thanks, Nashcat! Yeah, I've cleaned the connections. No noise at all when I turn the key. I'm starting to think that it's the ignition.
 

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2009? yeah, could easily be that the ignition switch has some corrosion in it.
I have never explained how this happens, but it happened to my old ninja. I guess I was lucky it came back.

Speculation begins:

I've never seen how it's made inside. I'd like to blame rain or more likely soap from washing but it seems pretty shielded. Anyhow, from that event on, I've always covered the keyhole when leaving in rain or washing. That might be as useful as a superstition for now, I know, but it doesn't cost anything to take this precaution (if anything, the tumbler and pins stay graphite-lubed longer).

I've extrapolated that corroded contacts need exercise. So, I turned the key a lot through off-on-hazzard, hoping it would scrub the corrosion from contacts. Again, I have no idea if I made it better or worse. But I guess I was lucky, with all these unofficial precautions, it never acted badly again in the 2 following years I owned it.
 

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Not a no start problem, A no POWER problem. If nothing lights up the starter will not have power. Get into the wiring diagrams and follow the power from the battery, to fuse to ignition switch and back to the fuse box and on to the other circuits. You will have a open somewhere. Bad ignition switch or corroded connection to it is the most likely, but could be a broken wire also.
 

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First instead of replacing things, spend money on a digital meter. Check the ECU fuse and I can give several simple tests, requiring 10 minutes or less. Also need to know, if instrument lights up? Does start button do anything? Do signal lights work? Does horn work. How about brake light and tail light. Has the bike been dropped? Any engine malfunction light on?

Once I have these answers, we can move forward. FYI the start solenoid is part of the lighting relay. For the solenoid to work the start relay needs to function, it has several lockout circuits, the neutral switch, the kickstand and clutch switch and kill switch, if the neutral switch malfunctions, try with the kickstand up and clutch pulled in, pushing start button = nothing would indicate you have one of several problems with the relay box. Some actions/ testing is available without removing the gas tank, I say this because getting the tank off on a 2009 is a PITA and requires patience and some expertise , so determine where the issue is, this includes the key switch which is also a PITA as the connector for the right side is buried below the front right side of the gas tank.Make sure the 15 amp ECU fuse is good and the 10 amp ignition fuse is good.Does the display show the neutral light on? If you have the service manual 16-54 is a simplified version and 16-47 is a detailed circuit diagram. Several people had issues with the key switch contact failing, trouble shooting in all honesty is easier with the tank removed, checking at the quick connects. Pulling the kill switch or ignition switch apart is asking for trouble unless you are familiar and use caution, nothing like a spring or contact flying out and losing it or trying to figure out how it is to be inserted.

Give me a reply and I will get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I went to the garage to fuss with it some more. Put the key in and display lit up. Went to start it and everything shut off when I pressed the start button. Now it won't power up again. But when key goes from on to off, the RPM indicator goes all the way up and then back down.
I wish I would have checked the horn, lights, etc when it was powered on, but I was so excited to start it. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I went to the garage to fuss with it some more. Put the key in and display lit up. Went to start it and everything shut off when I pressed the start button. Now it won't power up again. But when key goes from on to off, the RPM indicator goes all the way up and then back down.
I wish I would have checked the horn, lights, etc when it was powered on, but I was so excited to start it. Ugh.
Well, I turned the key to on before the display came on. Wanted to make that clear.
 

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We are getting somewhere , are you absolutely sure you have the new start solenoid in correct? Sounds like one of two things. You just blew a fuse and or you have a defective battery. If you have a meter, connect to your battery, key on and watch the voltage. Check all your fuses, the 10 amp ignition and 15 amp ECU. One step at a time, refrain from trying to start. There is a simple test possible on the 2009 to prove part of the key switch/ start solenoid coil circuit. It involves disconnecting the socket coming from the stator, the part going into the main wire harness uses a tap off one of the 3 phase wires, by providing positive 12 VDC to the tapped circuit will bring the headlight on, very simple, key on and use a jumper from the horn circuit, disconnect the BK/W black with white tracer, this goes to the horn button which is in turn connected to ground. So if you have a meter, with the remaining BR/BK brown with black tracer ( which is positive) connected on the horn , set meter to VDC, measure from ground to the horn terminal that was holding the BK/W wire, you should measure your battery voltage only when keyed on, this proves two things, the part of the key circuit is working, also it provides a safe means of testing. So using a jumper from that terminal that held the BK/W wire, go to ground, quickly because you will get a blast of the horn ( it draws roughly 3.5 amp) . If this works,** pushing the horn button acommplishes the same thing. Next using that jumper from the horn terminal, go to the 3 terminals of the socket from the stator , the side going into the main wire harness, NOT the side from the stator, one of those 3 wires once touched will bring on the headlight. If this works please post that. That proves the start solenoid coil circuit and headlight relay circuit, while you have the hreadlight on go to high beam , hopefully you have a meter connected across the battery, if all this is done under 5 minutes, you should be at 12.4 VDC or better.

FYI the horn is a current limiting device which is powered all the time the key switch is powered, I say current limiting because the current needed for the headlight relay is about 0.056 amp or roughly 1/62 of what is needed by the horn, so touching ground will just awaken you.
 

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The battery is toast. It may show 12v but has lost all capacity. If you have a car and booster cables connect the bike to the car and switch on.
 

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Beat me too it waspmike.

I've had batteries go out exactly like this. My recommendation would be to have a load test done on it. I know places like Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc., do this for car batteries. Don't know why they couldn't do it for a motorcycle battery.
 

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Well guys the OP hasn't been on for 4 days, if you read my long post, you will notice I mention triggering the headlights, OEM is 55 watts each, our stator is 330 watts output and the battery is 10 amp hour. I did a post on battery testing, but a second easy test is to use the starter motor, no key on, a very simple test! Starter draws 50 amp at 11 VDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi all, I haven't been able to get to explore further until today.

Re-connected today and it powered on when turning key on. Battery at 12.5 volts. Horn, turn signals, kickstand, clutch, on/off switch, front/back brake lights were all functional. Pressed start button and she powered off. I didn't realize that I still had the key in the on position, so when I went to turn the handlebars to move the bike into a different spot in the garage, it turned back on. Are there only 2 grounds on this bike?

Thanks everyone for their help so far! Y'all are great!
 

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Hi all, I haven't been able to get to explore further until today.

Re-connected today and it powered on when turning key on. Battery at 12.5 volts. Horn, turn signals, kickstand, clutch, on/off switch, front/back brake lights were all functional. Pressed start button and she powered off. I didn't realize that I still had the key in the on position, so when I went to turn the handlebars to move the bike into a different spot in the garage, it turned back on. Are there only 2 grounds on this bike?

Thanks everyone for their help so far! Y'all are great!
Very first thing, remove your engine ground, clean and then apply electrical grease. Your starter depends on it as well as most of the electrical system A little trick, before installing, take some diagonal cutters and cut a V 180" from the wire, just slightly less than the diameter of the bolt. This now becomes a modified fork crimp connector, the reason is the hole is on a slight angle, the negative wire is roughly 8 gauge and on the short side, very easy to cross thread. By starting the bolt by hand then pushing the modified fork onto the bolt, eliminates cross threading.
Now we are getting someplace. You need to remove the gas tank. YES a PITA, If you have never done this before , ask first, that 2009 has a plastic bung, you break it you need a new fuel pump complete. Once I get a answer I will explain what next . And what you have is one or more damaged connections, possibly mice at work as well.
 

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OK so the battery appears OK? Before major surgery I would repeat your experiment and when all the lights go out wiggle every wire around the handlebars that you can find. You might get lucky. But then again... I feel your pain.
 

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OK so the battery appears OK? Before major surgery I would repeat your experiment and when all the lights go out wiggle every wire around the handlebars that you can find. You might get lucky. But then again... I feel your pain.
To elaborate why remove the gas tank?
It is a known problem on the early MK-1 and MK-2's, water and corrosion. Turning the handle bars causes the wire going from the handle bars to flex, on the right side there is a very good chance of damage to the wiring on some bikes caused by the clutch cable, only way to see this is by removing the gas tank . Also some people have had connector failure on the left side to do with signal lights and headlights. So while having the gas tank off, take that connector apart and inspect, if OK apply electrical grease, this will help to prevent water egress and corrosion.

Secondly, taking the right side connector apart is only possible by removing the gas tank, this will result in several solutions, including a visual on the wiring to see if you have clutch cable wiring damage. Same thing, take the connector apart and clean / apply electrical grease.
Screwing around , turning the handlebars and trying to start without taking the gas tank off, is similar to changing control boards and parts, I am not a parts changer, either we have good parts or damaged parts, and that is what a meter is designed for, proving we have damaged parts, or good parts.
That replacement start solenoid fixed nothing.
 
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