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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
So in the last picture above this post, the rings and metal baffles/rings...do they need to be sealed? I understand the rubber parts need to be replaced with new ones, but do the metal rings need to be replaced? Also, do you reseal the large gasket everytime?

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light Automotive design Rim
 

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Word of advice, in this photo the wire coming out of the signal light, see that phillips head screw and metal retainer, remove that on the front signal lights, it will save replacing your plastic if you ever crash. Or if you bump into them, onc you know how, they can be easily with a slot screwdriver pushed back in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thank you for the advice on the turn signals. Also, no...I'm sorry. I didn't go about it right. I started reading your thread, but had no familiarity with the process and what I was looking at. I decided to take the items apart, take pictures, then go back to this forum once I had my pictures to compare to pictures on your thread. I figured I'd have some more familiarity then also. I am seeing now that some great recommendations are in there. I should have gone about it different though. I'll start reading more now and then get back to it this upcoming weekend. Thank you.
 

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Thank you for the advice on the turn signals. Also, no...I'm sorry. I didn't go about it right. I started reading your thread, but had no familiarity with the process and what I was looking at. I decided to take the items apart, take pictures, then go back to this forum once I had my pictures to compare to pictures on your thread. I figured I'd have some more familiarity then also. I am seeing now that some great recommendations are in there. I should have gone about it different though. I'll start reading more now and then get back to it this upcoming weekend. Thank you.
When in doubt ASK. There are no dumb questions. I think my third post has all the tools you need for valve shim check. A 1/4 inch drive torque wrench and go no go feeler gauges are a must. The obstruction wrenches aren't need for your model year ( to make it much easier on the cam chain tensioner removal, a PITA on the 2015 without them)
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Hello Onewizard, I wanted to update you on my current status. I've been trying to read your instructions (on thread: Valve Shim /Vacuum Sync 2015 650ABS /Onewizard) but the more I do...the more at times I seem confused. I think you were emphasizing some parts multiple times (to keep people straight and safe) but that became confusing. Also the 2/T versus the 2|T definitely gets mentioned so much to where that gets overly confusing. Maybe an option would be to type something similar to the following when they are being addressed?

Font Material property Rectangle Art Parallel
Rectangle Font Parallel Symbol Brand
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Symbol
Rectangle Font Art Symbol Number


Your posts mentions page 2-26 in the manual being incorrect. Well, the manual I have for MK-1 doesn't have that photo at all on page 2-26. The manual I'm using is:

Font Line Material property Screenshot Parallel



Am I using the wrong manual?

On page one, post #5 toward the bottom you state:

"Note FYI to do with installing the valve cover, and removing the valve cover there are metal washers that fit in the hole for the spark plugs, the taper faces down, these can fall inside the engine when removing the valve cover. If possible remove the valve cover and work the gasket off the cover, before removing it, be cautious as the washers are stuck to the gasket strictly by oil, they could easily fall into the engine or down inside the bike and go unnoticed. If difficulty in removing the gasket, just make sure you lift and travel to the left of the motor, be aware of these washers and remove them, I had cylinder #2 fall into the area around cylinder 1 intake valve. After turning the valve cover over it became apparent what happened and where they go."

Are the metal washers you are referring to the ones I have in the pictures below?

Blue Audio equipment Electrical wiring Gas Gadget


Fluid Liquid Wind instrument Drinkware Gas


If so, they feel STUCK to the rubber washers.

Really nice information with the zip ties, the magnet, the sanding, and the wooden block for a prop. I haven't started on the throttle body recommendations that are at the beginning of your thread, but I will certainly have questions on that too. I found this video on youtube, what do you think?

I'll hopefully work on things more this weekend and post my update later.
 

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Glad you started this thread. I have a 2008 V650 that I let sit outside for a long time. Picked it up on 2009 and rode it regularly, mainly school and work commuting, until around 2016. In 2016, I purchased a new car and stopped riding the bike. I left it parked outside my apartment for 3 years until I was finally told to move it. Moved it to my parents garage and started taking it apart with intention of getting it running again. That fell off after a few months, was a pain to travel a 100 miles round trip to my parents place every weekend to work on it. Finally got a house a 2020 and was able to move it to my garage. Now I've been getting the bug to get it running again. Might sell it afterwards, since I want to get a Ural, but also might keep it for a few years before selling.

Anyways, the main issue I've ran into is I left fuel with ethanol in the tank while it was sitting and rusted the tank. Otherwise, it just has a lot of dirt and grime all over it. Probably need to replace all the rubber components too. When the bike was at my parent's, I partially dissembled it to make it easier to clean up. Might continue the stripping process, but probably better to just clean the tank and get it running first.

Definitely up for working together to solve any issues since we seem to be in a similar situation. Not much of a mechanic, but I've always done all the work on my bike aside from having Cycle Gear change the tires and having a local place change the brake fluid, which I am confident enough to do myself now.
 

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Also, don't be an idiot like me and keep your gas cap, fuel pump, and fuel gauge attached while trying to clean out the rust in your gas tank. I initially figured that since they were sealed and everything was rusted... that there would be harm in adding vinegar and leaving those components attached. I WAS WRONG! While it did clean them, it also destroyed them a bit and caused more rust from spilt vinegar. Now I'm unsure if they'll work at all.

So while vinegar does great, make sure you remove everything before adding it. Also plug the holes so none spills out!
This is where I stopped iirc. Was trying to figure out how to seal the fuel tank and how to get the rust out. From memory, my research told me that I should use either nuts/bolts or BBs and a gallon of diesel to remove the rust from the inside of the tank. Then follow this up with KBS Coatings Cycle Tank Sealer Kit. I picked up the kit back in 2019, so not sure if it's still good or not, plus I still wonder if I should bother with resealing the tank or not. I was wondering how you closed up all the holes in the tank? I think that was what finally got me to stop as my idea was to get some sheet metal and use an angle grinder and drill press to make coverings, but since I had neither at the time, that killed the project (along with the driving).

So a bunch of rust came out, but I also screwed up the paint job. CLEAN OFF vinegar if you soil it or any escapes! What's worse is the gas cap is destroyed. I'm hoping to salvage the fuel pump and fuel gauge though. What do y'all think?
I did pull the pump and gauge out of the tank and have cleaned them both. The issue I ran into is the covering for the wiring has been dissolved which makes me think the wiring will easily break if I keep using the pump. Not sure if it would be wise to just solder on a new wire since the wiring would be sitting in gasoline for most of it's life. I did buy a new aftermarket pump from ebay so might switch over to using that instead. I can post picture of my pump if you want, but I also don't want to mess up your photo posting since you're using it for reference purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Hey Respen! It sounds great to work on it together and please by all means post whatever comments/photos you like and as many as you want! Helping each other is what this community has ALWAYS been about! I work night shift and am getting ready to go into work right now. I also have to run errands tomorrow for quite a while after work and then I'll be heading to sleep. So I may not get back on here until Saturday.

Heads up though, I am NOT a mechanic by any means. I have never EVER done anything like this so I/we might make a fair amount of mistakes along the way. Though, with the status of our bikes I'm sure we can't hurt them too much more. Also, with this forum being a MASSIVE lifeline I think we are in great hands!

Have you actually done the gas tank yet? I'll add some more information about my tank later.
 
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