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Hey there so my dad has a 2009 Versys 650 that has been sitting for roughly 4 years, hasn't been started up at all. I'm trying to get it into running shape again, so what exactly should I do? The bike has about 7600 miles on it.

Obviously the battery is done for, and I'll need to do an oil change and drain the fuel tank.

As for the tires, they were basically brand new right before it sat, so I'm hoping that they are still usable. Don't seem to have any flat spots and actually kept air decently while they were sitting. Hopefully they are good.

Will the brake fluid need to be bled/replaced as well? Transmission fluid/oil?

It's been garage kept this whole time and I live in a dry climate, so I don't see and visible rust/corrosion. I read online that people recommended pouring some sort of lubricant or cleaner such as seafoam into through the spark plugs, as to prelubricate the cylinder, but is this really necessary? Probably going to run a few tanks with fuel injector cleaner/upper cylinder lubricant regardless, hopefully it should break up any old gas deposits. I've had great success with the Lucas Oil fuel additive in cars, but have never worked on a bike before.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hey @Nordicyeti

I suggest you to check the tires, when I bought mine, there were some cracks in the tire tracks for sitting for a couple of months, although it was practically new I had to change it
I agree. I installed new tires on a Triumph Daytona, rode for about 100 miles, and let it set up for 2 years. Riding it A few times a year just to keep the engine free and lubricated. I sold it last month. The tires still had the mold tits on them and looked brand new. The air pressure on them was low, so we filled them to proper pressure. This is when we noticed the cracks in the tread grooves. The tires were not safe, so he replaced them.
 

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Check the D.O.T. code on the tires. Anything more than four years is getting really suspect. The rubber gets hard and less grippy, not a good thing on a bike. For sure they are done at five years. BTW, Jake Wilson has a set of BT023 tires for $131 after rebate.

Change all fluids including brake fluid. Trans is lubed with engine oil, no separate pan to drain.

Look in air induction system for mousey/critter/bug nests and make sure air filter is still serviceable. Do this before trying to start.
 

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change all fluids check tires (dig your fingernail into them and if it leaves a easy dent they are ok if they are so hard you dont dent them they are on there end of life)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey thanks all for the feedback.

Alright so went ahead and went over the tires with a fine-toothed flashlight.. Code is 1412 for the rear and 1512 for the front. No cracks seem to be present. Also, can leave a pretty easy dent in them even in my 48 degree garage. Hoping they're ok. Probably best not to risk it though.

Chain lubing is probably a good idea too right? Anyone have any type they recommend?
 

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Check the D.O.T. code on the tires. Anything more than four years is getting really suspect. The rubber gets hard and less grippy, not a good thing on a bike. For sure they are done at five years. BTW, Jake Wilson has a set of BT023 tires for $131 after rebate.

Change all fluids including brake fluid. Trans is lubed with engine oil, no separate pan to drain.

Look in air induction system for mousey/critter/bug nests and make sure air filter is still serviceable. Do this before trying to start.
$131 for the front AND rear? I'm not seeing that deal on their site.
 

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Hey thanks all for the feedback.

Alright so went ahead and went over the tires with a fine-toothed flashlight.. Code is 1412 for the rear and 1512 for the front. No cracks seem to be present. Also, can leave a pretty easy dent in them even in my 48 degree garage. Hoping they're ok. Probably best not to risk it though.

Chain lubing is probably a good idea too right? Anyone have any type they recommend?
ok so they are 5 years old and not hardened yet so should be fine, (i have some tires that are over 40 years old and am still riding on them ;>.>) i personally oil my chains with 80-90W gear oil is give your chain a good cleaning with diesel , kerosene or wd-40, then dry and oil well
 

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Try Chaparral Motorsports, they have good prices on tires. They have a Bridgestone rebate on the 23’s until Oct 31. I personally wouldn’t gamble on a 2012 tire. It’s money well spent.
 

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Great place to start!

Hey there so my dad has a 2009 Versys 650 that has been sitting for roughly 4 years, hasn't been started up at all. I'm trying to get it into running shape again, so what exactly should I do? The bike has about 7600 miles on it.

Obviously the battery is done for, and I'll need to do an oil change and drain the fuel tank.

As for the tires, they were basically brand new right before it sat, so I'm hoping that they are still usable. Don't seem to have any flat spots and actually kept air decently while they were sitting. Hopefully they are good.

Will the brake fluid need to be bled/replaced as well? Transmission fluid/oil?

It's been garage kept this whole time and I live in a dry climate, so I don't see and visible rust/corrosion. I read online that people recommended pouring some sort of lubricant or cleaner such as seafoam into through the spark plugs, as to prelubricate the cylinder, but is this really necessary? Probably going to run a few tanks with fuel injector cleaner/upper cylinder lubricant regardless, hopefully it should break up any old gas deposits. I've had great success with the Lucas Oil fuel additive in cars, but have never worked on a bike before.

Thanks in advance!
You'll have to file the rebate with Bridgestone, for $35 per tire, if you go with the BT023. I think this deal expires 10-31-17 though. Clock is ticking...

+1 on thorough inspection.

Check the D.O.T. code on the tires. Anything more than four years is getting really suspect. The rubber gets hard and less grippy, not a good thing on a bike. For sure they are done at five years. BTW, Jake Wilson has a set of BT023 tires for $131 after rebate.

Change all fluids including brake fluid. Trans is lubed with engine oil, no separate pan to drain.

Look in air induction system for mousey/critter/bug nests and make sure air filter is still serviceable. Do this before trying to start.
+1, these tires might be ok for now, but you might want to snag a cheap set now (see above) and have them on hand when they're needed.

change all fluids check tires (dig your fingernail into them and if it leaves a easy dent they are ok if they are so hard you dont dent them they are on there end of life)
 

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- download the factory service manual from this site in the TECH section (2007-2009 model), it will give you the HOW TO, to everything below
- clean airbox and air filter
- lube chain and adjust slack, may need replacement if it is rusted and there are any tight spots when you spin the rear wheel by hand while elevated on pit stand
- new coolant
- new brake fluid
- new fork oil
- new oil and filter, preferably 10W-40 synthetic
- adjust suspension, default setup is for a 150lb rider

optional but worth it
- check and adjust valves if nessary
- balance throttle bodies, makes engine run smoother and reduces vibration (requires vacuum carb/throttle body tool)
- install new tires if existing tires are near the end of their life (Metzeler Roadtech 01 or Michelin PR4 recommended)
- if you have any dash panel rattle or buzz read this forum on how to resolve, in particular the top panel over the dash has an issue that can be cured with some foam tape applied to the back of the tab on it. Also the VStream windshield on this bike rattles a lot unless you isolate it where it directly contacts the windshield supports on the side, good aftermarket shield though.

- insure, license and ride

TOOLS required:
- metric 3/8 socket set plus 27mm socket for rear wheel axle nut
- set of metric allen keys, preferably T handle type
- 14mm allen key for front wheel axle
- throttle body/carb synch tool to balance throttle bodies (made by Motion Pro or Carbtune)
- cheap brake fluid collection bottle with clear hose (~$5) for bleeding brakes
 

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I would also replace brake fluid, coolant, and get a cable lube tool and lube cables and all pivot joints i.e foot pegs shifter etc..

I recently switched to KLR chain lube, dries clear, the carrier evaporates fast so there is very little dripping, does not fling off or collect dirt.
 

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$131 for the front AND rear? I'm not seeing that deal on their site.
It's $201, minus the rebate. They do the rebate stuff for you. FWIW the front tires came about two years old, the rears one year. Limit four tires, $140 total rebate.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
- download the factory service manual from this site in the TECH section (2007-2009 model), it will give you the HOW TO, to everything below
- clean airbox and air filter
- lube chain and adjust slack, may need replacement if it is rusted and there are any tight spots when you spin the rear wheel by hand while elevated on pit stand
- new coolant
- new brake fluid
- new fork oil
- new oil and filter, preferably 10W-40 synthetic
- adjust suspension, default setup is for a 150lb rider

optional but worth it
- check and adjust valves if nessary
- balance throttle bodies, makes engine run smoother and reduces vibration (requires vacuum carb/throttle body tool)
- install new tires if existing tires are near the end of their life (Metzeler Roadtech 01 or Michelin PR4 recommended)
- if you have any dash panel rattle or buzz read this forum on how to resolve, in particular the top panel over the dash has an issue that can be cured with some foam tape applied to the back of the tab on it. Also the VStream windshield on this bike rattles a lot unless you isolate it where it directly contacts the windshield supports on the side, good aftermarket shield though.

- insure, license and ride

TOOLS required:
- metric 3/8 socket set plus 27mm socket for rear wheel axle nut
- set of metric allen keys, preferably T handle type
- 14mm allen key for front wheel axle
- throttle body/carb synch tool to balance throttle bodies (made by Motion Pro or Carbtune)
- cheap brake fluid collection bottle with clear hose (~$5) for bleeding brakes
Thank you for the in depth reply, definitely what I'm looking for
Can't say I've heard of fork oil before hah.



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