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So- for your entertainment purposes, went to do the AC measurment on the Stator- put the paperclips in, then went to adjust the RPMS, but one clip moved and started a small fire......so presently think I must replace this plug? After did an AC test- with no paperclips. was jumping a bit but basically A-B, B-C, C-A- all reading 27. something......
Stopping work for today before I blow bike up- back at it tomorrow.........
Try setting up a video camera, you could make a fortune, buy a new bike. Keep attempting to fix this one, more videos and $$$$
If you are getting 11.98 VDC and with low beam. How did you measure 27 VAC ? I asked to measure it while connected to the regulator.
 

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Stop running the bike-- listen and follow instructions or take it to a competent electrical mechanic.
I touched on your problem in post #76.
You need to pull the gas tank and test the relay box--your mechanic was puzzled by the wires getting hot--guessing the regulator was outputting full power on 2 phases--not explaining but your present regulator is likely garbage--your present stator probably has two phases discolored and ready to fail completely and your relay box was the original culprit back when the first battery failed.
I suspect the diode for the headlight relay is shorted, this would cause a single phase situation. It is before the regulator .

here is the link for testing the relay box-

you won't like this but I suggest draining the oil and pulling the cover off your stator--you are actually removing the stator--be careful, the gasket doesn't need replacing provided you don't pry on the gasket and damage it--watch your fingers, the rotor magnets are pulling the stator inward. Take some photos and post them. No idea what connector you had on fire, a photo would help.
See next post about posting photos.
 

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Very first thing, open two tabs-always-one is your instruction the second is your following instructions

I recommend you save your photos on the desktop-rename your photos let's use the regulator -so if you have 3 photos, -regulator 1-regulator 2-regulator 3--

The 3 vertical dots to the right of where you sign in-click on them--Gallery -click on this
Top right it says in Green -Add Media-click on this--create a personal album

Very first thing is, add a title- Next, Do Not click SAVE

Upload File---yes click desktop and Regulator 1---just keep clicking upload file and next would be Regulator 2 and last would be Regulator 3--It is at this point you hit SAVE
Next just click those 3 dots and click gallery-it will reload the page--click your albums-click your album regulator--top right is a box with 3 horizontal dots and an arrow down-click on that-Edit Album
This is a privacy thing, default is everyone--I use registered members ( unless you log in, my photos are not visible to guests)



OK now to post photos
Click on regulator 1 photo, scroll way down-below Share this media

I use --Copy image BB code ---it will start with = Gallery just click on that and copy--next with your second tab open in the message you wish to include the photo of regulator 1- paste it- be aware that if you pasted in the middle of a sentence, your text to the left would be on top and the text to the right, on the bottom of the photo. Right above the BBcode, type regulator 1- it is much easier to edit between photos if text exists- much harder to add as an afterthought once you post it.

To delete photos, click edit your post, click on the photo, lower right- a box will open up- -you can also resize it by moving much like snip it
below is an example of electrosport stator for the Versys


full size

Reduced size--same BBCode
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Ok- was working entire day/evening today. A lot of info in the above posts, so just going to break it down a bit here. Tomorrow I should be able to work on bike. First off- fantastic idea on the video. I will consider itl, I do feel cursed, but really only due to my own ignorance, always amazing. If I could start life over, I would have studied electrical systems- I promise you this. But here we are. I have basically resigned myself to spending the next 2 seasons trying to fix this bike. Which is probably how long it will take as I keep destroying the bike in my attempts to "test" it. The fire started b.c I had wires in the ports of the stator plug.....and I was really wondering why I had pins in there when I could just use the multimeter....so NOW I see that I was meant to be testing the connection- hence putting pins in the BACK of the connector sockets. Seems really obvious in hindsight. Tested 27 VAC from A to B and B to C and C to A....post fire.

Will figure out how to load photos. On that note I wish you had videos of basically every thing you tell me b.c it really would cut down on my potential for making disastrous mistakes....and you could probably make a fortune as well, but for the opposite reason!
Burned the plug to the stator, melted, but not super bad?
Now just for the record, the one thing I would love more than anything (other than say, OneWizard being like my next door neighbour,) would be to take this bike to an electrical mechanic, but I do not think we have such a thing in this town, and I cannot get farther than that.....so lets just dumb it down and I will try watch electrical videos every night of my life. So sorry to subject you to this, but I really appreciate your insane level of patience and determination.

So- first question is: should I take off gas tank and look at relay box FIRST or
drain oil and take a look at the stator FIRST or
just do BOTH these things, and load some photos?

Last question which perhaps I do not want an answer to, but are you saying that the problem I have could have already wrecked my brand new regulator? (As well as the last 3?)...if yes - the heartbreak deepens....
ok - thanks again, will see how far I can get tomorrow.......
 

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The way I worked for over 35 years of working on large foundry inverters, once on-site, if there was major visible damage, I locked out the power and tested all components with my test equipment--much more time-consuming than if I just powered up--but no more damage.
The relay box needs to be tested, as I suspect it could be partially at fault--you need to use diode test on your meter. If you find it faulty, please post this, as it is easily repaired ( well easy for some)

Your stator should be looked at, take some close-up photos, I have a photo of a Star-connected stator. You may need to remove the stator from the cover, pay attention to orientation, in fact, take photos of everything before you take it apart. The connection side may be shorting out, if it is it will be obvious.

The regulator should also be checked, do the tests using diode test. Again I have values of what you should see on the OEM regulator. And yes it could be damaged due to possible single-phase conditions.

When I am done, it will run flawlessly. As to the burnt stator plug, that is easily sourced or you can use insulated spade terminals, male and female- ( you need to know how to properly crimp)--the 3 phase wires can be in any order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
The way I worked for over 35 years of working on large foundry inverters, once on-site, if there was major visible damage, I locked out the power and tested all components with my test equipment--much more time-consuming than if I just powered up--but no more damage.
The relay box needs to be tested, as I suspect it could be partially at fault--you need to use diode test on your meter. If you find it faulty, please post this, as it is easily repaired ( well easy for some)

Your stator should be looked at, take some close-up photos, I have a photo of a Star-connected stator. You may need to remove the stator from the cover, pay attention to orientation, in fact, take photos of everything before you take it apart. The connection side may be shorting out, if it is it will be obvious.

The regulator should also be checked, do the tests using diode test. Again I have values of what you should see on the OEM regulator. And yes it could be damaged due to possible single-phase conditions.

When I am done, it will run flawlessly. As to the burnt stator plug, that is easily sourced or you can use insulated spade terminals, male and female- ( you need to know how to properly crimp)--the 3 phase wires can be in any order.
I cannot tell you the simple relief of reading the statement "when I am done, it will run flawlessly"....might just put that on the fridge to inspire me! Ok I will get to work, starting with taking the gas tank off and doing the relay box testing. Might take me a while to get through all this as I work a lot for about the next month, but have 3 weeks off after that, which could be time fully dedicated to this bike. I will post when I have completed any of the above and will get to work on the photo aspect as well. A million thank you's for this! Really!
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
I cannot tell you the simple relief of reading the statement "when I am done, it will run flawlessly"....might just put that on the fridge to inspire me! Ok I will get to work, starting with taking the gas tank off and doing the relay box testing. Might take me a while to get through all this as I work a lot for about the next month, but have 3 weeks off after that, which could be time fully dedicated to this bike. I will post when I have completed any of the above and will get to work on the photo aspect as well. A million thank you's for this! Really!
UPDATE: Might seem as if I fell off the face of the earth there but happened to get hip replacement surgery...Now on recovery, but will work on bike as soon as I can bend!
 

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Post #145 - Somewhere I have a list of steps for the relay box. The service manual lists them also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Ok- I have done the Diode Circuit Inspection and the Relay Circuit Inspection, (with the battery disconnected), but not the RCI (with the battery connected) mostly b.c I cannot figure out where one would connect the battery and I wonder if these other 2 tests might have enough information to point me in the right direction.
DCI:
1-11=nothing
2-11=nothing
12-13=656
12-15=660
12-16=912
13-14=662
13-15=1665
I am assuming the numbers I got are not important but have included them b/c of the 1665...bc it is so much higher than the other ones?
RCI : (I have included 2 extra readings besides the 9 requested in the manuel, (3-2) and (16-12) bc as I look at the map those seem to run through a coil, but perhaps the readings are redundant.
Headlight Relay
1-3=good
2-3=Nothing
ECU Main relay
7-6=Nothing
4-5=.21
Fuel Pump Relay
7-8=Nothing
9-10=.22
Starter Circuit Relay
11-16=Nothing
12-16-Nothing
11-12=Nothing
Fan Relay 17-20=Nothing
18-19- .29
 

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Ok- I have done the Diode Circuit Inspection and the Relay Circuit Inspection, (with the battery disconnected), but not the RCI (with the battery connected) mostly b.c I cannot figure out where one would connect the battery and I wonder if these other 2 tests might have enough information to point me in the right direction.
DCI:
1-11=nothing
2-11=nothing
12-13=656
12-15=660
12-16=912
13-14=662
13-15=1665
I am assuming the numbers I got are not important but have included them b/c of the 1665...bc it is so much higher than the other ones?
RCI : (I have included 2 extra readings besides the 9 requested in the manuel, (3-2) and (16-12) bc as I look at the map those seem to run through a coil, but perhaps the readings are redundant.
Headlight Relay
1-3=good
2-3=Nothing
ECU Main relay
7-6=Nothing
4-5=.21
Fuel Pump Relay
7-8=Nothing
9-10=.22
Starter Circuit Relay
11-16=Nothing
12-16-Nothing
11-12=Nothing
Fan Relay 17-20=Nothing
18-19- .29
You need to start over!
 

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Some info on regulator testing is in this thread;Regulator / Series / Shunt/ Test Proof / Legit or Fake?

First thing I need to make several things clear. Your meter should have a common and volt ohms post for your test leads, if of good quality it will have a diode test, the leads may be black and red, the sockets may be black and red. Again if of good quality using diode test ,connecting your red lead to anode and black lead to cathode should give a reading of 0.57V to 0.79 V , I say as I am using a Fluke 189 on diode test on a Kawasaki SH838AA shunt regulator off my 2015 Versys . The red on anode and black on cathode is forward biased. If you had a diode and connected the red to the cathode and black to anode , nothing should show i.e. if on ohms it would be infinity or in the millions of ohms, this is referred to as Reverse Biased
I am going to give the pin numbers and we are checking forward bias- with the # and then reverse -I will give approximate values- copy my numbers and add your readings in black.

Forward biased;
#11 black to red #2 = 660 to 670
#11 black to red #1 = 660 to 670
#15 black to red #12 = 0.79 volts ( meter may say something else )
#15 black to red #13 = 1.58 volts
#14 black to red #13 = 0.79 volts
#12 black to red #16 = 660 blue is coil circuits
#4 to #5 = 660
#9 to #10 = 660
#12 black to red # 16 = 660 to 670
#18 to # 19 = 660


Reverse biased
#1 black to red #11 = infinity
#2 black to red #11 = infinity
#13 black to red # 15 = infinity
#13 black to red # 14 = infinity
#16 black to red # 12 = infinity
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Some info on regulator testing is in this thread;Regulator / Series / Shunt/ Test Proof / Legit or Fake?

First thing I need to make several things clear. Your meter should have a common and volt ohms post for your test leads, if of good quality it will have a diode test, the leads may be black and red, the sockets may be black and red. Again if of good quality using diode test ,connecting your red lead to anode and black lead to cathode should give a reading of 0.57V to 0.79 V , I say as I am using a Fluke 189 on diode test on a Kawasaki SH838AA shunt regulator off my 2015 Versys . The red on anode and black on cathode is forward biased. If you had a diode and connected the red to the cathode and black to anode , nothing should show i.e. if on ohms it would be infinity or in the millions of ohms, this is referred to as Reverse Biased
I am going to give the pin numbers and we are checking forward bias- with the # and then reverse -I will give approximate values- copy my numbers and add your readings in black.

Forward biased;
#11 black to red #2 = 660 to 670
#11 black to red #1 = 660 to 670
#15 black to red #12 = 0.79 volts ( meter may say something else )
#15 black to red #13 = 1.58 volts
#14 black to red #13 = 0.79 volts
#12 black to red #16 = 660 blue is coil circuits
#4 to #5 = 660
#9 to #10 = 660
#12 black to red # 16 = 660 to 670
#18 to # 19 = 660


Reverse biased
#1 black to red #11 = infinity
#2 black to red #11 = infinity
#13 black to red # 15 = infinity
#13 black to red # 14 = infinity
#16 black to red # 12 = infinity
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
OK- I have been using the above map. My meter is cheap master craft, we established in previous posts (somewhere in the 100 posts), before I head into this re-do 2 questions: should I just go buy a QUALITY meter. I think yes personally given the work we are about to do here. 2. One thing I have found confusing is when told to "set meter to OMS" I get that, but there are 5 different settings in the OMS zone...I used the 20k, bc I saw that on a video, and I used the 2000 with the arrow- line symbol for the diode testing....am I just off on these settings for the meter?
 

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Use the #15 black to red #12 and post your reading on diode test .
And yes, not many help threads that stretch on for months , ruling out the relay box, is important.
Using unreliable test equipment or poor test practices solves nothing- for now I am trying to establish if your meter is in need of replacing. I am not a parts changer- nothing worse than $$$$ and finding the more expensive meter gives the same readings.
 

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I need some understanding here, the 2000 shows the diode symbol, what I don't know is the default ohms or do you push the blue button to get ohms. In other words, what does the blue-button do and what symbol if any appears in the display.I found the manual, vague at best:
Rectangle Font Parallel Paper product Brand
 
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