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You mention checking all the cables and wires--with the tank off? How about doing something different. I want you to check the plug at the start solenoid and the main 30 amp fuse, pay attention, and look to see if the female sockets of the fuse are spread. I am looking at a loose connection. Also, look closely at the start solenoid. Has anybody checked the tip-over switch/vehicle down sensor, per manual instructions. Obviously, we have more than one problem.

Well if nothing else, post #121
 

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you are reading over 17 volts off the system.... the regulator is bad. I bet if you read AC volts there will be some because some of the diodes are shot. PM me your address, I will send you a good low mile OEM regulator from my 2016
 
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
You mention checking all the cables and wires--with the tank off? How about doing something different. I want you to check the plug at the start solenoid and the main 30 amp fuse, pay attention, and look to see if the female sockets of the fuse are spread. I am looking at a loose connection. Also, look closely at the start solenoid. Has anybody checked the tip-over switch/vehicle down sensor, per manual instructions. Obviously, we have more than one problem.

Well if nothing else, post #121
Yes- took the tank off to check cables. Started to look at these things but ran out of good light, so will return to it tomorrow morning.
you are reading over 17 volts off the system.... the regulator is bad. I bet if you read AC volts there will be some because some of the diodes are shot. PM me your address, I will send you a good low mile OEM regulator from my 2016
Just put in a brand new kawasaki regulator last week, so that and the battery 100% have to be good.
 

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Yes- took the tank off to check cables. Started to look at these things but ran out of good light, so will return to it tomorrow morning.

Just put in a brand new kawasaki regulator last week, so that and the battery 100% have to be good.
One remote possibility is a bad connection within the stator. Measure VDC at the battery at idle and again at 2000 RPM. Have a meter on the battery, let the bike warm up until the fan comes on, watch the VDC and record it, once the fan turns off, bring the RPM up to 2500 RPM slowly, we are wanting to see the VDC rise and suddenly drop to say 14.3 to 14.5 VDC, what I am looking for is the voltage that the shunt kicks in at, typical is 14.9 to 15.2 VDC-record that. This not starting, the starter motor turns over but no ignition--the key is explaining that the electronics see no errors and is allowing the starter motor to engage--if that is the case- one area we haven't checked is the ECU connectors, several ( I think 2 in 10 years) have found corroded connectors-from sitting outside in the rain.
 

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One remote possibility is a bad connection within the stator. Measure VDC at the battery at idle and again at 2000 RPM. Have a meter on the battery, let the bike warm up until the fan comes on, watch the VDC and record it, once the fan turns off, bring the RPM up to 2500 RPM slowly, we are wanting to see the VDC rise and suddenly drop to say 14.3 to 14.5 VDC, what I am looking for is the voltage that the shunt kicks in at, typical is 14.9 to 15.2 VDC-record that. This not starting, the starter motor turns over but no ignition--the key is explaining that the electronics see no errors and is allowing the starter motor to engage--if that is the case- one area we haven't checked is the ECU connectors, several ( I think 2 in 10 years) have found corroded connectors-from sitting outside in the rain.
 

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not sure what happened with that last post... fat finger I guess.

anyway... what I wanted to say is that I once fixed a guy's KLR that had mysterious problems that came from a bad connector. the problem appeared/disappeared when pushing on the gas tank so that was a good indicator that led me to the wiring. the trick part was that the connectors looked fine. I started cleaning them more aggressively with a dental pick and parts started falling out. the sockets had corrosion and were breaking. the sockets are flat stock, folded to make it springy. corrosion had eaten through the bend area on some of the sockets making them weak. some were broken. that coupled with dust and corrosion byproducts made the contacts intermittent. new pins & sockets fixed it.

maybe get someone to help you check while you run the bike. watch the meter while you flex the wire bundles and connectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
One remote possibility is a bad connection within the stator. Measure VDC at the battery at idle and again at 2000 RPM. Have a meter on the battery, let the bike warm up until the fan comes on, watch the VDC and record it, once the fan turns off, bring the RPM up to 2500 RPM slowly, we are wanting to see the VDC rise and suddenly drop to say 14.3 to 14.5 VDC, what I am looking for is the voltage that the shunt kicks in at, typical is 14.9 to 15.2 VDC-record that. This not starting, the starter motor turns over but no ignition--the key is explaining that the electronics see no errors and is allowing the starter motor to engage--if that is the case- one area we haven't checked is the ECU connectors, several ( I think 2 in 10 years) have found corroded connectors-from sitting outside in the rain.
Ok- checked the main fuse and the solenoid connections. Sockets and all connections look good. Battery is now run down too much to work on the tests mentioned above, so will have to try that tomorrow. Am trying to open the tip over switch, but it does not seem to come apart- do I have to undo the 2 screws holding the bottom part to get it open? I just don't want to force something by going at it improperly. Also could not find the check in the manual, but might as well figure out how to open it first! Will work on everything else tomorrow, but would like to have a peek at the tip over today. Thanks, as always, for the info!
 

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Ok- checked the main fuse and the solenoid connections. Sockets and all connections look good. Battery is now run down too much to work on the tests mentioned above, so will have to try that tomorrow. Am trying to open the tip over switch, but it does not seem to come apart- do I have to undo the 2 screws holding the bottom part to get it open? I just don't want to force something by going at it improperly. Also could not find the check in the manual, but might as well figure out how to open it first! Will work on everything else tomorrow, but would like to have a peek at the tip over today. Thanks, as always, for the info!
Do not open it--if it isn't broken don't break it.lots of threads, here you go. read the first post, does this sound like your MK-1 bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Do not open it--if it isn't broken don't break it.lots of threads, here you go. read the first post, does this sound like your MK-1 bike?
No- does not sound like same issue, and the sensor down looks good. Just got called in to work today, so will try work on the more in-depth testing of the Stator tomorrow, and will report back.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
No- does not sound like same issue, and the sensor down looks good. Just got called in to work today, so will try work on the more in-depth testing of the Stator tomorrow, and will report back.....
Ok - so battery is back in 13.11 VDC just cold. At idle: 12.32, at 2000rpms also 12.32, at 2500rpms still 12.32. The fan did not come on at all so I could not proceed with the rest of the test. I have previously checked the fan relay and it did work when hooked up directly to the battery. As to the bike not starting, I think the only reason it is not starting at those times is because the battery has been run down too low, but it will usually start again after a cooling down period, but just once or twice more. So what next? How long should it take for the fan to come on at idle? I ran it for about 5 minutes at least and it was getting quite hot. Should I re-test the fan relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Ok - so battery is back in 13.11 VDC just cold. At idle: 12.32, at 2000rpms also 12.32, at 2500rpms still 12.32. The fan did not come on at all so I could not proceed with the rest of the test. I have previously checked the fan relay and it did work when hooked up directly to the battery. As to the bike not starting, I think the only reason it is not starting at those times is because the battery has been run down too low, but it will usually start again after a cooling down period, but just once or twice more. So what next? How long should it take for the fan to come on at idle? I ran it for about 5 minutes at least and it was getting quite hot. Should I re-test the fan relay?
There is also a slight squeal when starting, which does not happen all the time, but when I first got the bike, it started that squeal noise a couple of times before it died (for the first time)...not sure if that is significant or not.
 

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Ok - so battery is back in 13.11 VDC just cold. At idle: 12.32, at 2000rpms also 12.32, at 2500rpms still 12.32. The fan did not come on at all so I could not proceed with the rest of the test. I have previously checked the fan relay and it did work when hooked up directly to the battery. As to the bike not starting, I think the only reason it is not starting at those times is because the battery has been run down too low, but it will usually start again after a cooling down period, but just once or twice more. So what next? How long should it take for the fan to come on at idle? I ran it for about 5 minutes at least and it was getting quite hot. Should I re-test the fan relay?
I assume you are using your meter on DC volts. Before doing anything, you need to solve the charging issue. You should be at 14.3 to 15 VDC at 2500 RPM.
I have a new test, should take less than 1 minute. The top left pin of the regulator is positive, if you have telephone wire or something small , I want you to shove it in. While you are at it do the right side negative. What we, you are going to do is measure from your negative battery post to the positive regulator , with the key off and everything together. Before putting the connector back on the regulator, check with your meter. You should be reading battery voltage- the reason for checking before putting together- if you had it before you should have it after putting together. You can also just check both top pins in the harness, you should have battery voltage- if you don't you have found the problem. FYI All this is with the key off.
If it checks good , follow my first suggestion and give me the voltages as measured at the regulator at2500 RPM
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
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I assume you are using your meter on DC volts. Before doing anything, you need to solve the charging issue. You should be at 14.3 to 15 VDC at 2500 RPM.
I have a new test, should take less than 1 minute. The top left pin of the regulator is positive, if you have telephone wire or something small , I want you to shove it in. While you are at it do the right side negative. What we, you are going to do is measure from your negative battery post to the positive regulator , with the key off and everything together. Before putting the connector back on the regulator, check with your meter. You should be reading battery voltage- the reason for checking before putting together- if you had it before you should have it after putting together. You can also just check both top pins in the harness, you should have battery voltage- if you don't you have found the problem. FYI All this is with the key off.
If it checks good , follow my first suggestion and give me the voltages as measured at the regulator at2500 RPM
Is this to test the regulator? or is this to check the wires connecting the regulator? Can I use a paper clip? and just to clarify, b.c the connection on this new regulator is different than my last one. This one the plug is toward the middle of the bike- so if I unplug it- and am looking from the right side of the bike into where the plug goes, then the left top spot is positive? And then I measure DC? from the negative battery post to the positive pin I have shoved in the regulator? Or- can I just check the top pins in the harness? and see if that matches the voltage of the battery? Sorry for these basic questions, just trying to make sure I do not destroy anything! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
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Is this to test the regulator? or is this to check the wires connecting the regulator? Can I use a paper clip? and just to clarify, b.c the connection on this new regulator is different than my last one. This one the plug is toward the middle of the bike- so if I unplug it- and am looking from the right side of the bike into where the plug goes, then the left top spot is positive? And then I measure DC? from the negative battery post to the positive pin I have shoved in the regulator? Or- can I just check the top pins in the harness? and see if that matches the voltage of the battery? Sorry for these basic questions, just trying to make sure I do not destroy anything! Thanks.
So there are 6 connections in this connector-..right?
 

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5, top center does nothing. Bottom 3 are the 3 phase, paper clips are fine. I was thinking 3 different things. Bad positive wire going to harness. Bad negative wire going to ground
Defective regulator. If it isn't too much trouble, take a photo of any number / make/ letter combinations of this regulator.
So as a after thought, I realized that you could read your battery voltage with the key off at the regulator harness. You say your stator tests good. Let us solve one problem at a time. You can go about 60 to 100 KM on a fully charged battery, after that you walk/ hitch hike or call for a tow.
Let us see what you get- provided you get battery voltage. I want to know what the volts dc are at the regulator at 2500 rpm and low beam on.
If you have your old regulator, try it the same way. If you still get less than 13.9 VDC , with ether regulator.
Another test- paper clips will work. You are going to measure volts AC , at 2000 rpm . If possible use 3 paper clips pushed from the back of the stator plug. Make a drawing of what you call ABC . Mark the values down.
This test is used for verifying a fake series regulator, but can also be used to prove if all 3 phases are working. What the DC output is will be directly proportional to what the 3 phase AC input is under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
5, top center does nothing. Bottom 3 are the 3 phase, paper clips are fine. I was thinking 3 different things. Bad positive wire going to harness. Bad negative wire going to ground
Defective regulator. If it isn't too much trouble, take a photo of any number / make/ letter combinations of this regulator.
So as a after thought, I realized that you could read your battery voltage with the key off at the regulator harness. You say your stator tests good. Let us solve one problem at a time. You can go about 60 to 100 KM on a fully charged battery, after that you walk/ hitch hike or call for a tow.
Let us see what you get- provided you get battery voltage. I want to know what the volts dc are at the regulator at 2500 rpm and low beam on.
If you have your old regulator, try it the same way. If you still get less than 13.9 VDC , with ether regulator.
Another test- paper clips will work. You are going to measure volts AC , at 2000 rpm . If possible use 3 paper clips pushed from the back of the stator plug. Make a drawing of what you call ABC . Mark the values down.
This test is used for verifying a fake series regulator, but can also be used to prove if all 3 phases are working. What the DC output is will be directly proportional to what the 3 phase AC input is under load.
Thanks for the explanations - very helpful in my daily growing (but still fully lacking) electrical understanding. I will check the voltage at the reg harness first here. I think we can rule out a bad regulator as I just replaced it (like 4 days ago) the mechanic ordered it from Kawasaki (it was back ordered, hence the loss of the last of summer!) and he checked it before installing, apparently. I do not have the old one, but could probably get it. The reason we did this was he said the old regulator was "a strange one" - he also said the other weird thing was that the wires coming from it got abnormally hot when it was running, which was also strange. When I brought the bike to him, the battery was not charging at all, which he said was good b.c it is easier to find what is wrong, but when he started it up again - it WAS charging (3 days later) then he rode the bike with a meter on it, and the entire ride the battery was charging fine.
Last time I tried to upload photos it did not work- but the info on the regulator is:
(circle with arrow in//arrow in) SH678XA
G0.0161F
Off to do first phase ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Thanks for the explanations - very helpful in my daily growing (but still fully lacking) electrical understanding. I will check the voltage at the reg harness first here. I think we can rule out a bad regulator as I just replaced it (like 4 days ago) the mechanic ordered it from Kawasaki (it was back ordered, hence the loss of the last of summer!) and he checked it before installing, apparently. I do not have the old one, but could probably get it. The reason we did this was he said the old regulator was "a strange one" - he also said the other weird thing was that the wires coming from it got abnormally hot when it was running, which was also strange. When I brought the bike to him, the battery was not charging at all, which he said was good b.c it is easier to find what is wrong, but when he started it up again - it WAS charging (3 days later) then he rode the bike with a meter on it, and the entire ride the battery was charging fine.
Last time I tried to upload photos it did not work- but the info on the regulator is:
(circle with arrow in//arrow in) SH678XA
G0.0161F
Off to do first phase ....
Ok- the reading at the battery DVC is 12.66, and the reading at the harness is also 12.66 which I figure means the harness is perfect. I cannot seem to get any reading at the regulator, @2500 with the low beam on, which I assume is my connectors- tried wire, but my multimeter probes are shit. gonna go into to town and see if I can get longer ones and maybe some metal clips....which might suck up the time I have left before work, but hopefully not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Ok- the reading at the battery DVC is 12.66, and the reading at the harness is also 12.66 which I figure means the harness is perfect. I cannot seem to get any reading at the regulator, @2500 with the low beam on, which I assume is my connectors- tried wire, but my multimeter probes are shit. gonna go into to town and see if I can get longer ones and maybe some metal clips....which might suck up the time I have left before work, but hopefully not.
Oh- just occurred to me that the regulator is not going to read anything if I test it- not plugged in, so will do the test on the harness at 2500......jeez......
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Oh- just occurred to me that the regulator is not going to read anything if I test it- not plugged in, so will do the test on the harness at 2500......jeez......
11.98 VDC at 2500 with low beam.....whats it mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
11.98 VDC at 2500 with low beam.....whats it mean?
So- for your entertainment purposes, went to do the AC measurment on the Stator- put the paperclips in, then went to adjust the RPMS, but one clip moved and started a small fire......so presently think I must replace this plug? After did an AC test- with no paperclips. was jumping a bit but basically A-B, B-C, C-A- all reading 27. something......
Stopping work for today before I blow bike up- back at it tomorrow.........
 
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