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Yeaaaaaa :ROFLMAO:
So we npw know the top right with the sine wave symbol under the V is VAC WITH A 0 TO 200 volts AC range and a 0 to 300 VAC range which probably doesn't have a decimal place. The battery pile will show 0 when you go over the range which is a maximum 12 volts dc. The up left side has 3 volts dc ranges . 20 , 200 and 300. My guess is the lower two will give one decimal place. The 300 no decimal place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Well I was looking at the right one first time. Left side is DC not sure what the 200m and 2000m are but VDC you have 20 , 200 and 300. Use the 20 for measuring battery voltage and idle DC volts at the battery. Top right you have V with a sine wave symbol or volts AC , only two ranges , 300 and 200, use the 200 for the stator testing.
Ok- did that- got a reading from each one, however the readings would not "settle" kept jumping all over the place, and seemed almost to be going up as the bike was running, ranging from 20-35 with nothing reading constant....
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Yeaaaaaa :ROFLMAO:
So we npw know the top right with the sine wave symbol under the V is VAC WITH A 0 TO 200 volts AC range and a 0 to 300 VAC range which probably doesn't have a decimal place. The battery pile will show 0 when you go over the range which is a maximum 12 volts dc. The up left side has 3 volts dc ranges . 20 , 200 and 300. My guess is the lower two will give one decimal place. The 300 no decimal place.
yes- all sounds correct here.
 

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Have you set the idle roughly at 2000 rpm? Do a second and 3rd test. One at 1500 RPM and one at 2500 RPM
 

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I know you have a cheap meter but vac should be stable on the 200 range, try using the 300 VAC range.
I assume you have been using a charger or battery tender while doing this.
 

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I know you have a cheap meter but vac should be stable on the 200 range, try using the 300 VAC range.
I assume you have been using a charger or battery tender while doing this.
Next step is connecting the regulator and measuring volts dc at the battery. Use your 20 volt dc range. FYI most meters now gave auto polarity. So the center common pin is positive, the right black socket is negative. You also have some milliamp ranges which is a bad choice for meters in the hands of amateurs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
yes- all sounds correct here.
300 no decimal 200's have one 2000 does not.
Have you set the idle roughly at 2000 rpm? Do a second and 3rd test. One at 1500 RPM and one at 2500 RPM
yes was set at 2000, will try 1500 and 2500.......Ok- @ 2500 reading 30. (jumping around btwn 30.4-30.8) same on second, and on third jumping btwn 29-30.......
@1500 only small jumping around, like decimal 1, readings: 17.7, 17.8, 17.7
did @2000 again- jumping but only btwn 27-28. something.
 

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Nothing wrong with stator
Put back together and set at 1500 rpm. Measure VDC using the left 20 VDC range . only low beam light . expect voltage to take 3 to 5 minutes to stabilize
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Next step is connecting the regulator and measuring volts dc at the battery. Use your 20 volt dc range. FYI most meters now gave auto polarity. So the center common pin is positive, the right black socket is negative. You also have some milliamp ranges which is a bad choice for meters in the hands of amateurs.
I feel like this whole mission should not be in the hands of this amateur, but here we are. ok I believe I got a reading of 1177 at the battery, on the 20v with the regulator connected......
 

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ok- one tiny bit of good news today, which is nice.....
We have eliminated the stator and battery. Next is the regulator. Sure don't want to guide proving the regulator faulty. But possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
About 1 in 10000. Yuasa about 1 in 200,000
ok will work on that in the morning? And like how you have the actual odds....of course! Could any of these things also cause the over-heating situation? (side question).
 

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ok will work on that in the morning? And like how you have the actual odds....of course! Could any of these things also cause the over-heating situation? (side question).
Well I am hoping you find some insulation missing / bare wires near the clutch cable , which would explain the blown fuse. Also I question this overheating issue since you bought this used, I would hope this is something new and not a case of the original owner getting rid of it.. How the fan relay works is it gets a signal from the ECU. The ECU does get some power from the cluster / speedo assembly, hence the looking for some bare wires near the clutch cable / throttle cables. You could also have a temperature sensor failure, although I doubt it. Use your meter ohms the 2000 ohm with the diode test below and possibly the 20K range one , measure the resistance of the temperature sensor ( I calculated it to be around 2300 to 3000 ohms at 20'C ) . FYI be careful pulling the connectors off, there may be corrosion .
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Well I am hoping you find some insulation missing / bare wires near the clutch cable , which would explain the blown fuse. Also I question this overheating issue since you bought this used, I would hope this is something new and not a case of the original owner getting rid of it.. How the fan relay works is it gets a signal from the ECU. The ECU does get some power from the cluster / speedo assembly, hence the looking for some bare wires near the clutch cable / throttle cables. You could also have a temperature sensor failure, although I doubt it. Use your meter ohms the 2000 ohm with the diode test below and possibly the 20K range one , measure the resistance of the temperature sensor ( I calculated it to be around 2300 to 3000 ohms at 20'C ) . FYI be careful pulling the connectors off, there may be corrosion .
Despite what a disaster this bike has so far been, the old owner seemed really honest and also asked the shop where this work was done to check over everything and make sure the bike was mechanically sound (which hypothetically they did!)...so you know I love that garage. Anyways I'm working for the next three days then gone for work for a WEEK, so there goes the summer. I did test that the fan worked a while back, so I'm assuming I should get to work on looking for the exposed cable business first and leave the temperature sensor for later as is less likely?
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
Despite what a disaster this bike has so far been, the old owner seemed really honest and also asked the shop where this work was done to check over everything and make sure the bike was mechanically sound (which hypothetically they did!)...so you know I love that garage. Anyways I'm working for the next three days then gone for work for a WEEK, so there goes the summer. I did test that the fan worked a while back, so I'm assuming I should get to work on looking for the exposed cable business first and leave the temperature sensor for later as is less likely?
UPDATE- (still no good news). Found a mechanic who is great at fixing bikes that no one else can fix. Took the bike up there and when I arrived, the battery was not charging, great news he said b/c then we can figure out the problem. When he went to work on it the next day or two, it now WAS charging. He even rode it around, seemed to work. very weird, but He said the regulator was not Kawasaki, and despite being supposedly brand new, looked "strange" - so he got a new Kawasaki regulator, and we both hoped that would work. It was on back order, of course, so put that in. I rode twice and seemed fine. Third time, (a longer ride) shut the bike off to open the garage, and it would not start. Battery was reading about 10.34.....Two days later, was reading 11. something and it started, but still was not charging. Re-did for the 100th time all stator tests which came back perfect. We also checked all wires, cables and grounds on the bike. All perfect. Reading back I realize I did not check the temperature sensor- where exactly is this located? Any new thoughts? The overheating issue seems to have mysteriously disappeared. Bike basically works SOME of the time. Still stumped over here. And summer just ended too.
 
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