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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Ok- first off, you stating that "we are getting somewhere" almost made me have a heart attack! We never get anywhere!! Sorry for not being clear on the test- yes to the reading 00.00 when shorted AND when reading 1 and 3.
I do know of a guy in Victoria parting out the same bike, as I mentioned, will try him for a new relay unless you advise just getting a brand new one, obviously at this stage of the game I do not care to cheap out! I doubt anyone "bypassed the relay", so how do contacts become shorted? And could this little box really have been the cause of ALL my problems? (pls say yes)...
Also wondering why none of the three brilliant mechanics I took the bike to would not do what is a very simple test? Hopefully I do not die of joy before you reply. Thanks AGAIN!
 

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Ok- first off, you stating that "we are getting somewhere" almost made me have a heart attack! We never get anywhere!! Sorry for not being clear on the test- yes to the reading 00.00 when shorted AND when reading 1 and 3.
I do know of a guy in Victoria parting out the same bike, as I mentioned, will try him for a new relay unless you advise just getting a brand new one, obviously at this stage of the game I do not care to cheap out! I doubt anyone "bypassed the relay", so how do contacts become shorted? And could this little box really have been the cause of ALL my problems? (pls say yes)...
Also wondering why none of the three brilliant mechanics I took the bike to would not do what is a very simple test? Hopefully I do not die of joy before you reply. Thanks AGAIN!
Can you solder?
Way back somewhere in this thread, I guided @Verspkd on installing a aftermarket relay. Consider this is the most failed relay, after this is the start solenoid. I have come up with a simple way of installing . I purchased 4 or 5 of these complete with socket and wire harness for $20 Canadian same ones Princess auto sells. The advantage is, once installed, you could change it out in the time it takes to remove the seat. Buying a used relay box could be the same issue. I would offer $25 tops- well myself I don't use the trigger wire from the stator because I have a series regulator. So I would never need to replace my relay box .
 

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Ok- first off, you stating that "we are getting somewhere" almost made me have a heart attack! We never get anywhere!! Sorry for not being clear on the test- yes to the reading 00.00 when shorted AND when reading 1 and 3.
I do know of a guy in Victoria parting out the same bike, as I mentioned, will try him for a new relay unless you advise just getting a brand new one, obviously at this stage of the game I do not care to cheap out! I doubt anyone "bypassed the relay", so how do contacts become shorted? And could this little box really have been the cause of ALL my problems? (pls say yes)...
Also wondering why none of the three brilliant mechanics I took the bike to would not do what is a very simple test? Hopefully I do not die of joy before you reply. Thanks AGAIN!
As to your problems, that is a good question, the thing is, 12 volts only exists at pin 3 with the key on --
Anything further and your headlight would be on without a key, however it is possible to drain the battery through the regulator -- I need to draw that circuit out C/W the diodes of the 3 phase regulator. Pin 3 goes several places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
I do not know how to solder, but I guess I can learn...it would appear that buying a NEW box for a 2007 is actually not a possibility...and I do not have any interest in getting something that could just have the same, or worse, ANOTHER electrical problem....so might have to go with option B here....I will scroll back when I have time to see if there is any hope of me understanding the "work around"....
 

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I do not know how to solder, but I guess I can learn...it would appear that buying a NEW box for a 2007 is actually not a possibility...and I do not have any interest in getting something that could just have the same, or worse, ANOTHER electrical problem....so might have to go with option B here....I will scroll back when I have time to see if there is any hope of me understanding the "work around"....
Believe it or not, it isn't that hard. Crimping might be better-please tell me you know how to crimp 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

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I am going to start a new thread. I will the link later here.

 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Good morning! I have read the links you posted, but getting a bit lost in the details, as I think they cover more than what I am going to do? Should I also be bypassing the starter to save myself any future problems?. I do appreciate the photos. As to the crimping or the soldering, I will take up either task or both if required, especially since buying a reliable relay box seems impossible. One side note, I re-did the testing of ohms from 1 to 3 as I did yesterday (as am paranoid now and re- do everything the next day) and I do not get the 00.00 reading, I get nothing really, meter just sits at the .0L ....when touching the sensors I do still get the 00.00....I am hoping that this reading does not really matter because the headlight came on with the 10 pin disconnected, so our problem is made obvious by that result. But just checking, just incase!
Now should I crimp or should I solder? Canadian Tire is gonna love me either way....
 

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Well, never a dull moment. Checking 1 & 3 is now infinity? Two possibilities, one the spring is broken, depending how you hold it the contact closes. Two , from handling the relay box the contact broke free . I am the kind of guy that electrical doesn't heal itself.
The actual cost of replacing that relay is cheap. That area is tight, I have difficulty crimping there. The thing is, with the after market relay you get 8 inches of wire. You could use a posi-tap for pin 11 wire as we are talking milliamps.
The problem with soldering, a 30 watt pencil really isn't enough. Plus you need rosin core solder. Those photos are my buddies doing his 07 exactly as I describe. No time now but we should be posting in the technical discussion thread.

Bypassing the starter circuit is a bad idea, I don't think you would be too happy trying to bump start the bike with the headlight on.
One simple option, no soldering or crimping - a 5 pole insulated terminal block. Easily installed by anyone.
I will post a link later- sometimes other peoples problems make me come up with a solution.
 

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I am sure princess auto or any auto supply store carries a version of this. You need something for 15 amp and 14 gauge. On android now, if I fond something I will post it later. A block with say six places in and out using screw terminals and some sort of pressure plate.

 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
I am sure princess auto or any auto supply store carries a version of this. You need something for 15 amp and 14 gauge. On android now, if I fond something I will post it later. A block with say six places in and out using screw terminals and some sort of pressure plate.

Have not opened link b.c am not on the computer, but reading this I vote for the no crimp no soldering - get someone else to install the 5 pole block - what ever that is....Honestly the meter does not seem to be getting the .OL reading- it has that when the leads are not touching and seems to just stay there when I test the 1 and 3....not like yesterday....
 

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Have not opened link b.c am not on the computer, but reading this I vote for the no crimp no soldering - get someone else to install the 5 pole block - what ever that is....Honestly the meter does not seem to be getting the .OL reading- it has that when the leads are not touching and seems to just stay there when I test the 1 and 3....not like yesterday....
It happened, your call, put it all back together, and forget about it. It may work. I have a considerable amount of detail in the new link.

Not gone to waste, it may help someone else.

If that headlight relay contact closes by itself while installed, it completes the circuit to pin #2 back to the regulator through the diode, I can't say what will happen- I could draw it out-but why bother it is defective.

Who cares about your meter, the light came on with the 10 pin connector disconnected. Like I said put it back together and forget it. Maybe the contact freed itself.

Myself-I would have the new relay installed and riding it by now.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
It happened, your call, put it all back together, and forget about it. It may work. I have a considerable amount of detail in the new link.

Not gone to waste, it may help someone else.

If that headlight relay contact closes by itself while installed, it completes the circuit to pin #2 back to the regulator through the diode, I can't say what will happen- I could draw it out-but why bother it is defective.

Who cares about your meter, the light came on with the 10 pin connector disconnected. Like I said put it back together and forget it. Maybe the contact freed itself.

Myself-I would have the new relay installed and riding it by now.
Good luck.
I WILL look at the link, and I appreciate it, just not on the right device tonight!! Of course! And of course you would have it fixed by now, but that is like comparing an Olympic athlete to a couch potato.....we both know who is who in this scenario. I simply wrote, as the easiest option, offered by you was the 5 pole terminal block....which of course I have no idea what that is, but if it IS the most simple option, I thought I should take it......I wrote that without having looked at the links! Which I will of course study- tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
I will order from Amazon, as probably almost as fast as going to the auto supply and finding similar type thing. Did I miss a link or post as to what to do with this thing when it arrives? I know that is probably obvious to you Electrical Olympian, but I need to be 100% sure I'm doing the right thing........since I am usually NOT!
 
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