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I know I have a post-too many to go through. Before you assemble, a quick test. remove the black with white tracer, that is push-button horn ground.
Now go from the terminal that black with white tracer was attached to, using a small gauge wire, and keyed on, but not running-- touch -one at a time - the 3 phase socket terminals that you had a fire with, it is the side going into the wire harness NOT the wire going to the stator- and yes that means the plug is now apart. One of those wires goes to the headlight relay and your light should turn on. If after trying = no light on. Please post that. There is a simple work around for under $10 from princess auto and I have used well over 5 of them, for several years. However, I am not sure how long it will take for your brain to absorb the directions required to perform this task- well lets hope the light comes on. And if it doesn't Partzilla is $114 US . I have a thread on the work around-Later

Just a thought- it has been 5 months, if not for covid, I could have ridden out there fixed it and been back home - using a bicycle. Oh Well-We finally had our first IBEW retirees meeting after over a year and a half, all fully vaccinated, masks required and 2 meters apart, no tables or food allowed. I hope by December something improves!
 

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...Oh Well-We finally had our first IBEW retirees meeting after over a year and a half, all fully vaccinated, masks required and 2 meters apart, no tables or food allowed. I hope by December something improves!....
OR have the next 'meeting' here in AZ, where it's warm TOO...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Ok- first off I agree that buying any part is gonna be a faster route to happiness for me than trying to figure out a "work around". We've been working together long enough to realize this. On that note, you will, perhaps be not shocked that I am asking more details on the "black and white tracer" and the exact terminal I will be using. I see a black and white attached to the horn itself? Is this where I am unattaching? This angle is tough for me, as am still injured but just checking I am even looking in the right area.
On a side note, the fire was on the side which attaches to the stator, so the wires we are using are not damaged....yet!?

As to the 5 months - well if getting you over here was an option, believe me the flight is on me! To be fair, some of that time this bike was in 2 different garages, not getting fixed, and the rest of the time I was working too much to put much time in, when I was not lighting it on fire that is. I hope everything improves in December, from COVID restrictions to the living hell this bike has made for me. So off we go......I've said it before and I'll say it again, your patience never ceases to amaze!
 

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First-happy to see a useful post. I deleted part of the instructions. The horn is handy because just say you had a short to ground in the 3 phase harness, that black/white is ground from the button, so removing it from the horn, attaching a wire to that horn terminal- well if the harness you were testing was shorted to ground, best to wear ear plugs - yes the only thing that would happen if you dropped the wire and it hit the foot peg is the horn would sound.
So thinking ahead, before you remove that wire, test to see if your horn works. I picked the horn because it is on the same side and close to the 3 phase plug. I could give you a easier at the relay box test if you like. The thing is, the 3 phase plug is the normal operating system. However, anyone with a Series regulator doesn't use that circuit. We cut the tapped wire at the relay box and jump pin #1 to pin #3 . That requires something like a 4 inch piece of telephone wire, like 28 gauge, solid.


In case you come back online today I will provide a link that shows that connection and photos. Also watch this video if you have time Relay Box/ Headlight Relay Failure 2007/Cluster Testing/...

 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Ok-The horn works. I have seen that video for testing the relay box, (very good!) and the results of my tests from the manual as well as tests you requested are in post #150....if any of that information is helpful?
As to the horn test, if I am to disconnect from the horn itself, that is tough for me to get at, something easier might be preferred. I can access the upper levels of the bike no problem. I await my next move....
 

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starting on it info is in this thread instructions to follow, you will need to use a solid wire like 26 gauge telephone wire, slip it in on the six-pin socket between 2 & 3

I will copy one photo, but if you scroll down I describe option #1 the colour of pin #3 is gray pin #2 is black and the other end is tapped off the 3 phase plug within the harness

So here is the detailed instructions ;

using two short say 4 inches is lots, telephone or similar 26 gauge wires, you could use two needles, just put cardboard or something else under the relay box--we are not disconnecting anything, we are going around the seal of the pins #3 and #2, Gray and black.
Once you have that in place, get your meter,
key on - measure from pin #3 gray to ground set Volts DC - you should get battery voltage,
Next measure from pin #3 to the black pin #2 , you should get a voltage. Last take a small wire and short the needles out or if you used a small gauge wire, touch those momentarily, the light should come on and stay on, if it does, hit the start button for 1 second, the light should go off

I will check back later !!



below is one of my photos posted for guys installing the polaris regulator, the gray and black wires are clearly visible
Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior



 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
One question and one clarification: According to the map I have # 1 as grey, yes, but black is #7, and #2 is brown with a white stripe. Assuming I am still going to use the grey and the black, you mean that I leave it connected and just shove a pin in the connection.....just checking this one b.c....you know- fire and all.....
 

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Don't get involved electrically when you are tired--luckily I caught my own mistake

The connector has numbers embedded in the plastic. The connection is housed in a six pin connector. I am going to pull the drawing for the 2007 and check colour code-this could take me a hour to find it. Pin numbers and colours aren't shown together with Kawasaki .

Below is a screen shot from a 2007 service manual, it shows 1 and 2 side by side. How it works

Pin #3 is gray and also positive from the fuse box--Fuse circuit #5


The first way is, the instant the motor is running, the stator outputs AC, one of those phases is tapped within the harness, that is all 3 wires go to the regulator, but one of them has a tap off of it and goes to pin #2, the first above 8 volts AC that goes to pin two, gets rectified by that relay diode, that instant, energies the relay coil--once the contact of the headlight relay closes, it does two things, it takes the 12 volts at pin #3 and sends it to pin #1 and the light is on. It also provides positive power going through the diode of #1 to the line below pin #2, that diode right next to #2 does two things, it rectifies the AC from the stator at start and also blocks current flow from pin #3 once the relay is on.
So the relay latches in the on position by way of power from #3- we are proving that by the fact the key is on but the motor isn't running
Last , the start solenoid actually turns the headlight off - that is explained below--if you want to know how, ask but it may be hard to grasp, in reality, if the start solenoid coil wire blew open, you could bump start the bike but you would have no headlight, as the ground of the solenoid is also the headlight relay ground.

So we are putting a pin or wire in #2 black and a pin or wire in gray #3.
With a meter and keyed on go from #3 to ground VDC and you should get 12 volts
Connect the meter to pin #3 and pin #2 and you should get something close to battery voltage
Last, connect momentarily, #2 & #3 for 1 or 2 seconds The light should come on!
If it does -
Next hit the start button for one or two seconds we aren't trying to start we are proving the circuit works!
 

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One question and one clarification: According to the map I have # 1 as grey, yes, but black is #7, and #2 is brown with a white stripe. Assuming I am still going to use the grey and the black, you mean that I leave it connected and just shove a pin in the connection.....just checking this one b.c....you know- fire and all.....
Thanks for questioning-I made a mistake:eek: it happens🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
(I was looking at the map upside down, that is why I had 1 and 7 instead of 3 and 2!) ok that is all cleared up now! On a happy note, you may not believe this, but I actually UNDERSTAND what you are saying....so there is hope for this project yet! That is the good news for today, also got a good reading from #3 to ground, but the bad news is I do not seem to get any set reading from #2, the meter just goes all over the place, which makes me wonder if I do not have the pin inserted properly, but not sure how to check that, have tried to adjust it but with no improvement. Then obviously I get nothing from connecting 3 and 2, with the meter or the wire. Side question: the light comes on as soon as I key the bike on, so how would I notice IF it came on with the #2-#3 wire connection? One of these days I might not even run into a problem when running a test? I hope.
 

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(I was looking at the map upside down, that is why I had 1 and 7 instead of 3 and 2!) ok that is all cleared up now! On a happy note, you may not believe this, but I actually UNDERSTAND what you are saying....so there is hope for this project yet! That is the good news for today, also got a good reading from #3 to ground, but the bad news is I do not seem to get any set reading from #2, the meter just goes all over the place, which makes me wonder if I do not have the pin inserted properly, but not sure how to check that, have tried to adjust it but with no improvement. Then obviously I get nothing from connecting 3 and 2, with the meter or the wire. Side question: the light comes on as soon as I key the bike on, so how would I notice IF it came on with the #2-#3 wire connection? One of these days I might not even run into a problem when running a test? I hope.
Ok.keying on and light on is a defect on all Kawasaki Motorcycles, KLR,Ninja etc. only on a fully charged battery. Good news, for it to come on, that headlight relay needs to work. You meter reading is normal because you are reading voltage drop across the diode
To prove this to yourself, key on, provided the headlight is on, hit the start button for 1 second-I don't want the bike to start, this should turn the light off, next use the 1 second across 2&3 -light should come on!! this is a circuit that took me hours to resolve. On my 2015 I have a diode across the start solenoid coil circuit, as I don't want my light on until I am ready to ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Ok.keying on and light on is a defect on all Kawasaki Motorcycles, KLR,Ninja etc. only on a fully charged battery. Good news, for it to come on, that headlight relay needs to work. You meter reading is normal because you are reading voltage drop across the diode
To prove this to yourself, key on, provided the headlight is on, hit the start button for 1 second-I don't want the bike to start, this should turn the light off, next use the 1 second across 2&3 -light should come on!! this is a circuit that took me hours to resolve. On my 2015 I have a diode across the start solenoid coil circuit, as I don't want my light on until I am ready to ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Ok sort of sounds like good news, but the light does not go off when I hit the start button, therefore cannot try the 2&3 to turn it back on. Hopefully that is not a big deal....I'm assuming you know I do not have the gas tank on right now! So the headlight relay is working, despite my relay box testing which said we had a problem.....do I need to "make" the headlight turn off via the start button, or can I move on to the next thing?
 

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No , this could be part of your charging problem. I need to come up with a way of cranking for 3 seconds without starting. That light must go off, otherwise those contacts could be welded closed.

Get back here in a couple hours.
 

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Going for simple-pull the six pin socket with #1 & #3, I want you to test the relay box pin 1 & 3, using ohms-you lowest scale. Nice having a photo of your new meter.
Turn the selector to ohms, you are using the right two sockets-common and volts/ohms-HZ and diode test. So let us see how sophisticated your Canadian tire meter is.
Short out your leads in ohms, notice the reading, while shorted out, press REL button. That subtracts the value of resistance in your meter leads, and the display should read 0.00- next-and do not change range or turn the meter off- I want you to measure as in my first sentence here.
 

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A second way of proving this circuit as defective, pull the 10 pin socket out on the relay box. 12 volts goes directly to the pin #3 , just traced the electrical drawing, with the key on and the 10 pin socket disconnected from the relay box, it is impossible to turn the light on. Unless someone has modified the circuit. The ground for the headlight relay coil goes to pin 11- with it disconnected like I said-impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
Following the first set of instructions I get a reading of 00.00, and I am including a photo of the new, fancy meter…..
With regards to the second set of instructions, I pulled out the 10 pin socket and turned the key on, and the light DID come on? I really do not think anyone has modified anything on this bike, so what is up with that?
Gadget Measuring instrument Sports equipment Wrist Font
 

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Model number on the meter incase you cannot see is: 052-1899-2 Mastercraft.
Following the first set of instructions I get a reading of 00.00, and I am including a photo of the new, fancy meter…..
With regards to the second set of instructions, I pulled out the 10 pin socket and turned the key on, and the light DID come on? I really do not think anyone has modified anything on this bike, so what is up with that? View attachment 184423
Finally getting somewhere

I read your post twice - 00.00 across #1 & #3 ?? , or the same as shorting your leads out should read 00.00- if this is what you are saying, your contacts are welded closed

That is electrically impossible-- as far as control voltage using relay logic!
The coil circuit of the headlight relay depends on the 10 pin plug for the ground of the coil. So you have either shorted contacts or someone bypassed the relay. Testing #1 & #3 using ohms, should be infinity, if not-problem is solved-you either need to use my workaround, try and take the relay box apart or replace the relay box.
 
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